240 rear suspension set ups

So what are some common rear shock and spring combinations people are using on Volvo 240 Rally tractors?

I would like to find some rally valved shocks but can't find them online mostly because I don't know what to look for.

I think I am going to pull some turbo wagon springs for the rear and if I can find nothing better I will pair those with Billy HDs.

Thoughts?

Thanks

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Zap zap my ass...

240s use very standard 5" springs with nothing special about the pigtail. IF you know the weight over the rear axle, you can calculate the length and rate of 5" spring you might need for the intended use. You can use a 240 upper spring perch on the lower trailing arm or bolt on an adjustable 5" spring perch.

Ultimately, that is kind of a bandaid. In the future, one is limited by the travel of the stock 240 and should probably effectively put a strut in the back by moving the shock to the rear of the trailing arm and put longer springs back there. Still, there is a fair bit out there and the 240 uses pretty generic rear shocks. Aka, go meausre yours and order some bilsteins in a desirable rate. Just remember the effective wheel rate of the shock will be different from (less than) the effective wheel rate of a spring on a 240.

fridgewagon Wrote:
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>
> Ultimately, that is kind of a bandaid. In the
> future, one is limited by the travel of the stock
> 240 and should probably effectively put a strut in
> the back by moving the shock to the rear of the
> trailing arm and put longer springs back there.
> Still, there is a fair bit out there and the 240
> uses pretty generic rear shocks. Aka, go meausre
> yours and order some bilsteins in a desirable
> rate. Just remember the effective wheel rate of
> the shock will be different from (less than) the
> effective wheel rate of a spring on a 240.

WHAT?
You're using big terms and making a muddle of things.
The poor damper being way up the arm between the wheel and the pivot has a big lever on it so for a given wheel rate, it has to be way stiffer to damp the spring than if it were concentric around the damper.
The limiting thing on the stock 240 set up is the short installed distance of the damper in the original position.
Much freedom of choice of travel and shock availability can be gained by moving the damer back to the top of the axle or maybe clocked at one or two oclock looking frm drivers side.
Adding towers up above the wheelarch will allow more choice, more travel.
Stay tuned.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I can easily see how welding ears to the top of the axle would provide much more travel. By one or two oclock do you mean rolling the ears around the axle towards the front of the car? Towers sound yummy but will have to wait for the moment. Sounds like a good winter project.

It looks like the upper mounting location should still work with this new setup but by moving the damper that much how much longer will my new springs need to be? Will the desirable spring rate be affected by the new susp geometery?

One more then I'll stop yappin like a fawkin noobie. With the new location what length billys should I be looking for now?

Did Kev and yourself ever make it down for Olympus? Sorry we missed yeah, we had a great time. Just missed pastrami doing cart wheels in his car.

Thanks again for the help I have been making some good progress and hope to keep the ball rolling.

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Zap zap my ass...

slidewayswrx Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I can easily see how welding ears to the top of
> the axle would provide much more travel. By one
> or two oclock do you mean rolling the ears around
> the axle towards the front of the car? Towers
> sound yummy but will have to wait for the moment.
> Sounds like a good winter project.

Hey go find the link to the GpB Celica restration and look at the photos
number 68, 88, 100, 103, 104, 125, 130, 181.
I mean looking on driver's side slightly behind the axle (To protect the mounts from rock spray and to position the thing so the geometery is optimal in the "normal range" of movement.
I think its a good this summer project.
>
> It looks like the upper mounting location should
> still work with this new setup but by moving the
> damper that much how much longer will my new
> springs need to be? Will the desirable spring
> rate be affected by the new susp geometery?

Don't think you can use the upper mount.
>
> One more then I'll stop yappin like a fawkin
> noobie. With the new location what length billys
> should I be looking for now?

Why this unit sitting right here: see?
Same as we use on the Xrattys.
(makes sense)
And yeah spring rate changes, and we can use the Ford as a guide since the postioning is so similar.
>
> Did Kev and yourself ever make it down for
> Olympus? Sorry we missed yeah, we had a great
> time. Just missed pastrami doing cart wheels in
> his car.

No, Kevvie had to work, I had to to work, too. Making suspension.
Gotta pay the rent!
>
> Thanks again for the help I have been making some
> good progress and hope to keep the ball rolling.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

that mat build up is amazing and there is alot to be learned by studying those pics. It is, however, a far cry from the gravel driveway I am working in now.

I love how nearly everything on that car is adj. Ahh Someday...

So I take it that you are talking about going with a coilover set up like on that celica because i don't see how you could rotate those dampers around to the rear of the axle at all before you would get into the rear springs. Is that what you are thinking or am i way off base?

Thanks I'll get up to speed one of these days

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Zap zap my ass...

Here are some pictures of shock towers installed http://www.lightspeed-motorsport.se/pic_gallery.aspx just click 242 le in the drop down menu