Should I care what my camber is?

we ran camber bolts up front on the impreza for the tarmac at ESPR. didn't have any problems. wouldn't do it (not needed) on gravel.

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-KTurner
Stomp down on the exhilarator and hold on to the wheel.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/22/2013 02:17PM by KTurner.

Hmmm...I was wrong. The rears are supposed to have the washers and the fronts just use regular Subaru camber bolts.

http://www.dmsnorthamerica.com/PDF/2f%20-%20Alignment%20Washers%20Setup.pdf

http://www.dmsnorthamerica.com/#/support

The owner's manual also has the recommended alignment settings for various surfaces.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/22/2013 02:07PM by Jard.

That must be new. Mine don't have that (original ones bought in 2000. Used ones I bought from Calif don't either).

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Don Kennedy

3 degrees is quite a bit, but I'm not sure I'd bother to take it out.

Would be nice to fix the rear.

I'm not sure if you'd even be able to notice the difference though.

Go with something like -1.5 front, -1 rear. for camber.

if you've done less than 10 rallies, you should go with 0 toe all around or maybe even a little toe in. setup the car to understeer "In steady state" (on the dirt)


Steady state means driving in a big circle as gentle as can be. as you slowly , gently increase speed you want the front end to wash out.

even if a car understeers in the steady state you should be able to make it drift (oversteer) with weight transfer, if you can't yet, work on that.

if you setup your rally car well it should start to suck a bit at rally cross. if you have an ideal rally cross setup, then its wrong for stage. rally cross requires a car that over steers @ steady state, and one that is very finicky (toe out front and maybe rear too, or a big rear sway, or both)

That's my old car Tim. Check the strut mounts, we had to swap that left rear during service at NEFR (before you bought the car) with some piece of shit NAPA part we picked up in Rumford. I bet that's the issue. Also, change your tie rods, ball joints and wheel bearings, if you did RNY and NEFR, they are due for it.

-Dan

Yeah, after NEFR, I need a full suspension rebuild.

Tim.

Quote
TronDD
Yeah, after NEFR, I need a full suspension rebuild.

Tim.

What do you have on that blue thang?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
TronDD
Yeah, after NEFR, I need a full suspension rebuild.

Tim.

But, but, but...I thought NEFR was going to have glass-smooth roads this year?


Something something Cold Bits?

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Andrew Steere
Lyndeborough, NH
KB1PJY

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
TronDD
Yeah, after NEFR, I need a full suspension rebuild.

Tim.

What do you have on that blue thang?

Should still be DMS 50mm

Yup. The rest is stock. Not sure the maintenance history on the DMS stuff, so I'll send 'em out for a full rebuild. I have grpN rubber to put in the front. Need to do something for the rear. Tubular with rod ends, or is that weaker?

Tim.

Turns out the front struts have both, slotted holes AND camber bolts. Don't know if it was really at the limit of adjustment or if the shop didn't check what they working with.

We'll see when it goes back together.

Still trying to get rear apart. The long bolts through the bottom are being stubborn. Strut mounts looked fine so I still haven't found the cause of the positive camber. Gotta get the arms off...

Tim.