New Project

I just picked up a 2000 Civic Hatch. It's in almost mint condition, which is impossible to find around here in Chicago, so I bought it on impulse more than anything.

Anyways, the plan for 2014 is to do the motor, brakes, decent suspension, and then go road racing with some friends. I'm going to do a K20A3 or a K24A1 with the basic bolt-ons, ITR or NSX brakes, and some decent coilovers/sway-bars/etc.

Once I get that squared away, I'm going to do a proper rally cage, suspension, etc for 2015 and try to run Group 2.


Anyways, here's a pic. 100% bone stock and about as clean as they come around these parts:

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b00sted
Anyways, the plan for 2014 is to do the motor, brakes, decent suspension, and then go road racing with some friends. I'm going to do a K20A3 or a K24A1 with the basic bolt-ons, ITR or NSX brakes, and some decent coilovers/sway-bars/etc.

Wow, just going straight to the deep-end there, aren't ya?

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

Grab the only nice Honda in the region and trash it...cool!

Nice looking car.
That thing have struts or does it still have that morphodite weird-ass stuff so many otherwise nice Honjas are plagued with?

What's the stock motor in it?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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john vanlandingham
What's the stock motor in it?

D16Y7, which is an SOHC 1.6L non-VTEC motor. It made 106hp stock, and I'm sure it has lost a few ponies over the past 270k miles.

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Aaron Luptak

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b00sted
Anyways, the plan for 2014 is to do the motor, brakes, decent suspension, and then go road racing with some friends. I'm going to do a K20A3 or a K24A1 with the basic bolt-ons, ITR or NSX brakes, and some decent coilovers/sway-bars/etc.

Wow, just going straight to the deep-end there, aren't ya?

Is that considered the deep-end? That's a lower-end k-series motor...I'm actually considering a k24a2 I found locally, which IMO would be better since I plan on keeping it relatively close to stock.

I'm not going to buy parts to swap in a b-series when I'm just going to want to run a k eventually anyways.

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b00sted

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Aaron Luptak

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b00sted
Anyways, the plan for 2014 is to do the motor, brakes, decent suspension, and then go road racing with some friends. I'm going to do a K20A3 or a K24A1 with the basic bolt-ons, ITR or NSX brakes, and some decent coilovers/sway-bars/etc.

Wow, just going straight to the deep-end there, aren't ya?

Is that considered the deep-end? That's a lower-end k-series motor...I'm actually considering a k24a2 I found locally, which IMO would be better since I plan on keeping it relatively close to stock.

I'm not going to buy parts to swap in a b-series when I'm just going to want to run a k eventually anyways.

My impression is still that you can do a B swap for $1k pretty easily, whereas a K swap is easily going to be triple that, and more if you're going for any of the "Type-S" bits.

Granted, the notion of "I'm not going to buy X if I'm planning on buying Y later" makes a lot of sense.

While I can't argue that the K is a better engine, there's three reasons I'm not planning on using one any time in the near future:
* Cost - just looking at a gearset from Gear-X, you're looking at $1k for a B, vs $2.5k for a K.
* Height - K series heads are a good bit taller than B's. Deck height is the same between the B18/20 and the K20, K24 is 20mm taller. I'd have to assume that most mount kits may sacrifice ground clearance in order to get the hood to close properly.
* I already have a B in my car.

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

Yeah what's wrong wif B?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

A B isn't completely out of the question...I just see more potential in the K motors. I think the biggest problem is that B motors are harder to find as factory pull-outs around here, and anything being sold private-party is usually some bastardized junk that some kid tried wrenching on. Whereas I can get a bone-stock K20A3 for ~500, and a K24 from 1000-1500.

But I hear you, the k-series gearsets and swap parts are definitely more expensive. The height can be an issue too, I know certain motor mounts move the motor lover in order to clear a factory hood.

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heymagic
Grab the only nice Honda in the region and trash it...cool!

Take it easy... There's plenty of nice Civics in the area, just none in this price range. I lucked out on that aspect.

If it were a flawless CRX or something, I'd agree with you. Fortunately, my buddy already owns that car and it's used strictly for road racing.

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b00sted
A B isn't completely out of the question...I just see more potential in the K motors. I think the biggest problem is that B motors are harder to find as factory pull-outs around here, and anything being sold private-party is usually some bastardized junk that some kid tried wrenching on. Whereas I can get a bone-stock K20A3 for ~500, and a K24 from 1000-1500.

But I hear you, the k-series gearsets and swap parts are definitely more expensive. The height can be an issue too, I know certain motor mounts move the motor lover in order to clear a factory hood.

Yeah but a Lego-ed B20 with the right bits looks arfully dam good..
I built one B16 but the guy also had some B20 block and crank, and hell it all just mixes and matches..

Hey Lurchie Burmeister found that keeping the driveshafts aimed right at the knuckles was super important to lessen all the normal high power FWD jankie-ness.. And as for "more' potential....how much more you need than a good Lego B20 can give ya---IF you put the right box behind--oooops BESIDE it

And ya din't say if that fawker has struts!

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

You guys are right though... Something like a B18C1(GSR) with minor bolt-ons(and cams at most), a close-ratio gearset, and a nice final drive will be plenty fast, dead reliable, and about the same money as the K24A2 with no bolt-ons and a stock trans.


We'll see. I'm more of an impulse buyer when it comes to car stuff....Otherwise I'll talk myself out of it.

Before I bought this Civic, I had just randomly texted my buddy who is a big Honda guy, asking if he knew of anything. He replied and said his buddy was selling this car above...I went over there with cash, saw that the body and floors were rust free and straight, and handed him cash without even test driving it. It was only $1300, so all I cared about was the roller itself...Although, for 270k miles, this car runs and drives like new. I was very impressed. My 90 CRX I had years ago with half the miles used to burn a quart of oil a week.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2013 05:00PM by b00sted.

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john vanlandingham
Yeah but a Lego-ed B20 with the right bits looks arfully dam good..
I built one B16 but the guy also had some B20 block and crank, and hell it all just mixes and matches..

Hey Lurchie Burmeister found that keeping the driveshafts aimed right at the knuckles was super important to lessen all the normal high power FWD jankie-ness.. And as for "more' potential....how much more you need than a good Lego B20 can give ya---IF you put the right box behind--oooops BESIDE it

And ya din't say if that fawker has struts!

You're right...That post I just posted right after you basically says the same thing. A proper B-series is more than enough Group 2 it seems.


As for struts, I'm not sure. I haven't looked and I'm not too familiar with these year(EK) Civics. It still used the trailing-arm setup in the back. I'm assuming you're referring to that goofy upper control arm thing the older civics have? I think these cars still use it...I'll have to look.

As far as I know, the suspension in these cars is the same as the suspension in the 92-95(EG) civics....If that helps at all.

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john vanlandingham
And ya din't say if that fawker has struts!

All 88-2000 civics have

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john vanlandingham
that morphodite weird-ass stuff

not struts.

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

Is e85 legal in RA or NASA? The RA rules mention locally purchased fuel, fuel purchased from the approved sponsor/vendor, and RA-authorized alternative fuels. Is e85 one of those approved alternatives?