Good studless ice tire?

i had high end toyos on my cherokee. go2plus if i remember correctly but tire manufacturers change models and compounds like car manufacturers do now adays. best ice tire ive driven besides blizzacks. only prob with performance ice tires is theyre soft as chewing gum and wear super fast on dry surface or surfaces over 7 degrees celcius. personally i drive a midrange everyday (bridgestone ice slalom) but the side walls on these and gummy soft performance ice tires have super soft side walls and you experience it in the handling when the car hooks or hits ruts. if you are on straight ice these are great. on my rally cross car i run directional studded highway compound champipro gt winter compound cause the harder casing makes for strong sidewalls for side ways, ruts ect keeps beads on real nice like. i use those fir clay and gravel as well. great for snow ruts ect but icy cornering is alotta slow in fast out or perfect sideways action with not alotta oops room.
there
back on topic kinda
i like skinnier as well to maximize ruts and diggyness

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All bridges burnt, island life is beauty



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2013 01:25PM by Snidewhips.

I'm going the studded route...Nut/Washers/Bolt through tire. I was watching videos, and the cars with studded tires just look much more fun...The non-studded guys look like they're trying to navigate an icy parking lot without hitting anything.

Quote
b00sted
I'm going the studded route...Nut/Washers/Bolt through tire. I was watching videos, and the cars with studded tires just look much more fun...The non-studded guys look like they're trying to navigate an icy parking lot without hitting anything.

They take a LOT of time....and I don't how much time you have...

They're insanely heavy once you have a bunch screws thru them and the ice race guys I knew down east in Maine said you have to have some liner or the heads chew the tubes,,,


all told might be smrater-er to get some trashed for top level rally stuff and fly them in:
http://www.blocket.se/klippan/Rally_is_dack_50378899.htm?ca=1_8&w=3

4st 15" Trelleborg på
5,5" Volvo fälgar. Pris 6000kr

4st 15" utan fälg. pris 2000kr<---------4 pcs without wheels 2000 SEK/around $320



#1 44

skip the first 0

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2013 11:09PM by john vanlandingham.

or
http://www.koldkutter.com/catalog/index.php
work wonders on a motorcycle on ice or rocks

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I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

I've heard the weight of a car will rip those kold kutters right out of the tread block.
With liberal use of a sealant, like windshield urathane, you can get a decent enough seal on bolt tires that you don't need to run tubes and liners to protect the tubes. Do bring some spare air though, just in case. Although I have it on good authority that snowmobile studs are the way to go. They're pricey new, but used ones are easy enough to find and they allow an 8v mk3 golf with an open diff to beat evos and stis on bolt tires.

eight hours a tire to do it proper, use doughnut spares, bolt head, washer on tire inside, washer nut on outside, tach weld bolt to nut after tight, sharpen bolt, windshield urethane interior of tire and beads, mount and inflate to max psi.

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All bridges burnt, island life is beauty

Quote
Snidewhips
eight hours a tire to do it proper, use doughnut spares, bolt head, washer on tire inside, washer nut on outside, tach weld bolt to nut after tight, sharpen bolt, windshield urethane interior of tire and beads, mount and inflate to max psi.

That is my plan aside from the windshield urethane...I haven't heard of that before. My plan was to use 3M High-Tack on the bolt threads that end up threaded in to the rubber, the underside of the interior washer, and the underside of the interior bolt-head. I did that on dirtbike tires once and they held air quite well all things considered.


JVL, those tires you posted might be a nice alternative. The first race is in January, and there's only 5 ice races total I believe... Their rules mention no screw-in/press in studs, but I'm guessing that's in reference to studdable street tires with studs added after the fact...If these are manufactured with the studs in them, they may not bitch about it. I'd have to ask.


Also, keep in mind that this is for a AutoX on ice basically. The runs last about 60ish seconds and then I can go back and add air to the tires if need be...So even if they slowly lose air over the course of 24 hours or so, it won't be much of an issue to me.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/01/2013 03:01AM by b00sted.

Got hakka 5s on my car. Still awesome tires, pricey though.

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Grant Hughes

Quote
Carl S
I've heard the weight of a car will rip those kold kutters right out of the tread block.
With liberal use of a sealant, like windshield urathane, you can get a decent enough seal on bolt tires that you don't need to run tubes and liners to protect the tubes. Do bring some spare air though, just in case. Although I have it on good authority that snowmobile studs are the way to go. They're pricey new, but used ones are easy enough to find and they allow an 8v mk3 golf with an open diff to beat evos and stis on bolt tires.

What kind of pattern are they using with the snowmobile studs? I have a box of them, but everytime I calculate it seeems like I have about half of what I need. Not sure what is too many, or overkill. They are pricey.

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Thanks,

Kevin Wesley

Quote
kwesley

Quote
Carl S
I've heard the weight of a car will rip those kold kutters right out of the tread block.
With liberal use of a sealant, like windshield urathane, you can get a decent enough seal on bolt tires that you don't need to run tubes and liners to protect the tubes. Do bring some spare air though, just in case. Although I have it on good authority that snowmobile studs are the way to go. They're pricey new, but used ones are easy enough to find and they allow an 8v mk3 golf with an open diff to beat evos and stis on bolt tires.

What kind of pattern are they using with the snowmobile studs? I have a box of them, but everytime I calculate it seeems like I have about half of what I need. Not sure what is too many, or overkill. They are pricey.

Hi Kevin! Good to see you back around rally stuff. I haven't seen the tires in question so I don't know what sort of pattern they're using. I know where they run has a 160 stud/tire minimum rule, so at least that many I guess. I'm hoping to make it to an event or two this winter so I can see for myself.

Chris Martin and I ran tractionized Hakkapeliitta R2s at Tall Pines a couple of weekends ago. They seemed to work pretty well.

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-Brian



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2013 08:22AM by Brian Johnson.

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Yes, it's a Ranger.
Xr4Ti, it is rwd and was made in Germany.

I used to have a set of Menard's on my ice racer ('83 GTI) and they were the shit. It's like driving on gravel without those pesky trees. Menard's aren't around any more but it looks like Pryme has replaced them, with the same mold. Pryme Tire

You can buy studdable tires from tire rack and they'll install the studs for $15 a tire, something to consider before spending 30+ hours installing them yourself. I've had good luck with winterforce's but never tried them studded. I would think that's a good inexpensive alternative.

Some other info on real ice racing can be found here: Ice Race MN IIRA

I've tried kold kutters (without nuts) on car tires before and almost all of them came out after a few miles of hard driving.

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Dave Grenwis - DG Rally - www.dgrally.com