and just think, its supposed to be my daily...

well... yea so this happened for various reasons on my 84 Rx-7. Using .75" front .88" rear.

i think it came out good since I only have a 110v welder, a drill press made in 1947, some files, a corded hand drill, and some measuring tools.

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
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Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Nice. Fairly simple. Clever. You thread the plunge-rods in/out of the clevis for balance?

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Quote
Creech
Nice. Fairly simple. Clever. You thread the plunge-rods in/out of the clevis for balance?

No, you thread the balance bar in and out. Or left and right, how ever you want to say it.

Threading the bar---and with it the spherical bearing circliped in place ---moves the fulcrum....
Then depending on master size, caliper piston size and how much you have threaded the push rods in the bar goes / or so and you push on the masters differently..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
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Ah, it took a minute. I did not espy the ball on the threaded rod at first - I was ASS-uming it was a cylindrical bushing in the middle of the pedal bar, and was thinking "HOW the hell is THAT supposed to change the ratio?"

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Parfois, on fait pas semblant!

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Quote
Creech
Ah, it took a minute. I did not espy the ball on the threaded rod at first - I was ASS-uming it was a cylindrical bushing in the middle of the pedal bar, and was thinking "HOW the hell is THAT supposed to change the ratio?"

Its one of those things if you never saw in place you go "er uh...wait a minute"
But as soon as you have it in hand it makes MOSTLY good sense..
Still nearly everybody gets their F/R bias exactly 180 degrees off the first time setting them up
So for the lurkers lurkin' masters are in fixed position , pedal is between them, push rods are in place---the bearing which is the fulcrum goes left and right in the tube. we could say "favoring " the one master over the other.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

biggest issue now is getting the damn brake lines connected. Its seems no one makes a 1/8" NPT male to M10x1.00 female (or male)

---

First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

I'd envy your clean shell, but you GOTTA see the VW I just picked up. I'm gonna feel bad about driving it on the street.

"Bolt in a 10-valve Turbo engine" turned into porting the hell out of everything, doing a semi-oddball intake manifold (rear inlet like the A2 cars), rotated radiator, mongo intercooler, the 42lb injectors should be here tomorrow, can't decide if I want to stick with the stock turbo or hunt down a K27 for that lagariffic driving experience...

For your brake line conundrum, I'd say just cut the ends off and put standard 3/8" thread fittings on there.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2013 07:26PM by Pete.

what did you set the pedal ratio to? Looks great BTW!

Quote
Pete
I'd envy your clean shell, but you GOTTA see the VW I just picked up. I'm gonna feel bad about driving it on the street.

"Bolt in a 10-valve Turbo engine" turned into porting the hell out of everything, doing a semi-oddball intake manifold (rear inlet like the A2 cars), rotated radiator, mongo intercooler, the 42lb injectors should be here tomorrow, can't decide if I want to stick with the stock turbo or hunt down a K27 for that lagariffic driving experience...

Quantum Syncro?

Another one, yeah. You'll see it on Motorgeek eventually.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2013 05:21AM by Pete.

Quote
phlat65
what did you set the pedal ratio to? Looks great BTW!

its 6.54, so should feel decent.

---

First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

The master cylinder rod for the front master needs to be about 5mm longer than the one for the rear. Make sure you don't thread them both equally into the clevis or your dynamic timing will be hitting the rears WAY before the fronts.

good to know!

---

First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Quote
Cosworth
The master cylinder rod for the front master needs to be about 5mm longer than the one for the rear. Make sure you don't thread them both equally into the clevis or your dynamic timing will be hitting the rears WAY before the fronts.

Is the difference in length to allow the balance bar to be perpendicular when the pedal is pressed?
Also, how would you tune your dynamic brake timing? It seems like the transitional time would be hard to tune.