So I was about ready to put on some wheel studs to fix my car and prove all of the old people on my specialstage wrong and win the world rally championship when this little fucker right here came and shat on my nice fucking day.
(See attached picture)

I guess rust is on the side of the big corporations and evil adults preventing me rallying.

So I've decided to put together a little fuck you rust kit so I don't have to deal with this shit again. What should I put in this kit and how in the fuck am I supposed to get this out even???

Please help I need to get my car fixed for my sanity. Being a car guy and only having a POS Cavalier sitting in a driveway is hurting my self esteem my therapist says.

And being a car enthusiast/ teenage virgin with no money means I don't have alot of that shit.

EDIT: I just realized rust probably isn't my problem. Some fucker probably took his beast ass roid status SSJ3 Goku fucking air tool to it but did it like a douchebag instead of a human so it probably just got mangled to shit. Fuckin amatuers. But still how????? I know you guys got some shit for me 😉😁



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 08/26/2015 10:35PM by LexusFman.

Oxy torch.

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Grassroots rally. It's what I think about.

Quote
Anders Green
Oxy torch.

I have a propane torch would that help?

Quote
LexusFman

Quote
Anders Green
Oxy torch.

I have a propane torch would that help?

Probably not..

or maybe in conjunction with PB Blaster..
One thing you better do is get your nose in close and look and see if the end of the bolt or whatever it was is mooshed or deformed from whatever was done to it cause if the remains of the bolt are mashed to shit and over hand the inner steel sleeve, that bolt is never coming out..

I assume you have bought a nice "Family Size" 5 gallon pail of Never-Seize which you now slather over anything you touch...dontcha?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Would one of those hex extractors work? Or is this a drill and tap kind of thing?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/27/2015 12:36PM by LexusFman.

hammer on a smaller size socket and be done with it. Depends on how rounded it is. I wouldn't got the drill and extract route. That has hardly ever worked for me.

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I am not an alien

Koolaid on specialstage just an FYI

for those of us who aren't intimately familiar with Cavaliers, what are we looking at?

I'm assuming, based on the presence of a CV axle and the mention of wheel studs, we're looking at something on the hub/knuckle side? Control arm to knuckle maybe?

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

Looks like a striped out allen bolt/socket head cap screw. Can you fit a drill and a bit in there?
If so, this might work:
Soak everything in PB Blaster
You might be able to drill the head of the bolt completely off (don't go too deep and start drilling through the part it's holding on). The drill bit will cut the head of the bolt off when it gets deep enough.
Remove part.
Moar PB.
Grab stub of bolt with vice-grips and give 'er hell. Heat the area surrounding the bolt with a small torch if you have it. Any extra heat will help.
Buy new bolt.

Pooor thing that is fucked up..
Re-thinking: 4" disc sander on angle grinder. grind it flush then propane to try and burn the bushing away.. No fun.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I'm not totally sure what I'm looking at but here's my thinking:

measure or figure out what size allen that is supposed to be, then find something slightly larger in metric (or, if its metric, something slightly larger in American).

get the propane torch out and try to get the housing hotttttt... then blast the bolt with PB - it'll smoke because the bolt is hot too.. but the heat expanding the housing and the rapid cooling of the bolt from the PB might loosen it up pretty good (and hopefully not shatter some weak cast metal part). then just soak it in PB for like 15...

Then pound in that slightly wrong sized allen (Could look into some Torx as well.. whatever will fit in there) and be firm on the handle and tap it along with a hammer...

#IhateAllen

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Blog about my history with the rally car written for non-automotive folk: davescq.wordpress.com

Looks like a brake caliper slider pin to me.
If it is the design I am thinking of you could unbolt the caliper complete with the carrier and work on it in a vice or bench instead of under the car.
IIRC the front pins are a 7mm Allen socket head.
If it's rounded badly then whacking in a slightly bigger torx or bi-hex bit usually gives enough grip to undo them.

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Disappointingly not yet a Jackass

Is that a brake caliper mounting bolt?

it looks recessed into whatever cast thingy it's holding on...

Buy a new car.

I'm down with start with the oversized metric thingy that almost fits and pound it in... PB blaster for a day or two beforehand, then try and break it free, your propane torch ain't gonna touch that big heavy cast heat sink around it...

After that doesn't work, drill the head off, but realize the drill bit is gonna be a
$15 throw away item when you're done.

Edit: why do you need to take this part off?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/27/2015 02:24PM by Mad Matt F.

Quote
reecers
hammer on a smaller size socket and be done with it. Depends on how rounded it is. I wouldn't got the drill and extract route. That has hardly ever worked for me.

I always break the extractor and then have to try to drill/tap out the hard metal. That's when I take it to a machine shop and let the professionals handle it.

I have found reverse drill bits to be better, as it makes what you are drilling through want to turn out naturally anyhow.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/drill-bits/metal-twist-drill-bits/left-hand-drill-bit-sets

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"Talk about drugs. Driving a car like that, going that fast, it’s like all the drugs at once." - Tommy Byrne

"Now, Pinky, if by any chance you are captured during this mission, remember you are Gunther Heindriksen from Appenzell. You moved to Grindelwald to drive the cog train to Murren. Can you repeat that?" - The Brain

If that is allen bolt head, then these things tend to work great on socket-head cap screws

Lowes & Autozone sell them. Irwin Bolt Grip

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Sorry guys that is the brake caliper bolt...but yeah she's a POS. I learned my lesson. When vanlandingham says to buy a Volvo YOU BUY THE FUCKING VOLVO

EDIT: And I need to replace my wheel studs. Everywhere seems to say all ya gotta do it take off the caliper to slide the rotor off the hub to expose it then BFH



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/27/2015 04:20PM by LexusFman.