Anyone using the stock cable pull handbrake on their vw?
My stock one doesnt work, even with new cables. I hope to be upgrading, most likely to the one made by CNC or Wilwood. Any other easy to do options?

I really dont use the handbrake during rallying but have had the need at rallyxs and test sessions so would like to have one that works properly

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rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

The Ksport one is pretty good and cheap and can be upright, or flat like the stocker.
$162.50 with cylinder.
http://www.ultrarev.com/product.php?productid=42594

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Grant Hughes

I bought a clutch master cyl out of a nissan pickup at a jyard for $5, got a bracket made for $20, I just need to weld a fitting to where the res was on the master cyl and I'll be ready to go for $25.

Unless I misunderstood your question, yes, I think you will find that the majority of VW owners still use the stock handbrake.

In my car the previous owner installed a hyrdaulic handbrake in my GTI and removed the stock "parking" handbrake. I didn't like not having a parking brake (the hydraulic one doesn't lock) so I just bought the handle/ratcheting mechanism and the cables from someone parting out a GTI and didn't have much problem installing it. I even had to place it in a different spot because my cage/kill switch intereferes with the original mounting location.

What exactly is your problem? Is it a just a matter of the cables not being adjusted properly? If you turn the levers on your rear calipers where the cables attach, does that activate the brakes as it should? Its really a simple system and is fairly robust so I'm sure we could figure this out. If your calipers are ok, then its 99.99999% likely to be the cables are not adjusted properly. With the brake all the way down, use the nuts which fit on the end of the cables and tighten them down as much as possible and then pull the e-brake. If you can't pull up that's good, because your rear brakes are locked because you tightened too much. Loosen the nuts till you get the right handle travel. If you tighten them to the limits and that still doesn't work then you may have to re-route the cables in some way.

In any case, I'm glad I put the mechanical e-brake back in. My first event with the car I lost a rear brake line and wound up losing my brakes. It was nice being able to use the handbrake to control my braking as I was towed off the mountain we were on....

If you do go hydraulic only handbrake, make sure it can lock! (oh and I'm convinced that there is air trapped in my handle mechanism somewhere. It doesn't have a bleeder )





Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/27/2008 08:19PM by Eddie Fiorelli.

Carl S Wrote:
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> I bought a clutch master cyl out of a nissan
> pickup at a jyard for $5, got a bracket made for
> $20, I just need to weld a fitting to where the
> res was on the master cyl and I'll be ready to go
> for $25.

That's because you're a schmarty!!

Now when all you boys start adding Volvo 230 calipers, or even Saab 900 calipers, and getting the ratio right, you'll have no problems locking the things on asphalt, even at 40.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks Grant,
Have you ever installed one of these things? I am asking coz the line is 130 bucks. I just wanted to know if it is something unique to Ksport only or if i can match something up.

Oscar

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rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

Same as Girling and Wilwood. Don't bother with their line 'kit'.
7/16-20 and 3/8-16 fittings for inlet and outlet, respectively.

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Grant Hughes



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/27/2008 11:36PM by NoCoast.

Thaks,
Now one more question. Will i need a limiter infront of that thing?

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rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

turoc Wrote:
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> Thaks,
> Now one more question. Will i need a limiter
> infront of that thing?


Ja ! Yes ! Evet ! Oui !

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Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

I used the stock arm attached to a built by me system hydro hand brake, I left the locking in the car so I still had a hand brake.

I spent $5 for the Nissan clutch master and about $3 for fittings to drill and tap the inlet of the master and adapt to -3 flare line. All and all including flare lines etc I was likely into the deal for about $30.

The cables hardly work when new so why bother?

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In the long run reality always wins.

I wanted to put one in my integra but I found that the production rules dont allow such bling. Nothing that LFB cant do on gravel, but on tarmac its a different story.

Oscar here's a decent one for cheap.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/cnc-staging-brake-b18-b18c_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33566QQihZ003QQitemZ130201703889QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Hey Paul,
you dont have an Integra. You still live in the USA
Mustafa is coming thru with a full hydro setup similar to the one on your link.

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rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

With a bit of ingenuity (not too much) you can change the stock VW locking mechanism such that you push the button to lock, but when the button isn't pushed, it doesn't lock (backwards from normal) which is nice for a rally car. Combine this with a cheap MC and you have a locking Hyd. handbrake. Just be aware that it may bleed pressure over time and your car will start to roll...eventually.

I just put one of these in to the Mazda to keep it from rolling at an uphill timing control when I wanna leave the engine running.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jamar-Line-Lock-p-74.html

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Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan

HI, been lurking here for a long time...thought I'd pass along my 'wisdom' on this one. I removed the stock cables and attached a clutch cylinder to the stock brake handle, with a wilwood proportioning valve before it (mounted where I can easily reach it from my seat on stage). This required t'ing the rear brakelines into one line and moving them through the inside of the car, then t'ing them again for the rear wheels.

If I was going to do it again (here comes the wisdom), I'd leave the stock cables and add a second handle for the hydraulic handbrake. I'm worried that I'll lose brake pressure someday and not have the stock cables to help slow me down. Other wisdom.....I've pulled that handle on stage twice in 5 rallies, i.e. you don't really need it. However, I'm all for moving the brake lines through the inside of the car and using a proportioning valve as the slight rear bias helps to start the car turning.

For bleeding air, I attached a reservoir cap to a garden sprayer and fill it with brake fluid. Pump that sucker up, open the bleeder and watch the air bubble fly out of there.

C LePoudre Wrote:
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> This required t'ing the rear brakelines into one line
> and moving them through the inside of the car,
> then t'ing them again for the rear wheels.
>

One step too many in there.. Instead of t'ing after the MC, just plug one of the holes (I just bought a new M/C, $55 and it came with two nice threaded brass plugs for your pleasure). Unless you didn't swap your lines over to a front/rear setup rather than the dual diagonal.