well this post made it somewhere a little. we want to build a rwd Subaru with my
friends bug eye not sure if anything will come of it. Stock subarat cv's are junk so
what to do about the knuckle and hub i want to see if i can peace together supra
shafts that would work with Subaru knuckle but I say wrx motor t5 tranny and supra
diff not a bad combo my friend has been putting down 230 hp to the ground for 2
years on a mostly stock wrx motor. now tranny adapter hmmmmm.

I also say fallow the drifters they have done a lot more rwd stuff than we have
for sube sift through the cheesy junk and mostly the weld there center diff and
run sti rear end and they do ok. Some located a few places that make 4130 cv
shafts. Most of us are more thrifty and go with the well known and the proven to
get the job done. less broken = more fun anyway. and with this much experimenting
your most likely to spend the first few years in the pits pissed off over a dnf you couldn't help.

fficial%26sa%3DN" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/R200%2520Subframe%2520in%2520car%2520closeup.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/powertrain/27532-converting-awd-2wd-rwd-w-pics-5.html&usg=__TUrAs5tPTTtemCJWWnaxO78tMeo=&h=480&w=640&sz=69&hl=en&start=26&um=1&tbnid=rzrf373MZ-arzM:&tbnh=103&tbnw=137&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsubaru%2Bdrift%2Bcar%2Brear%2Bdiff%26start%3D18%26ndsp%3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-USfficial%26sa%3DN

http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0511_subaru_wrx_import_car/photo_01.html



ya we have been tossing around this idea for a bit now and think it would be out standing and we have a wagon in the driveway now haha go figure.

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TSSFAB.US No HYPE just parts!!!! And check us out on Facebook!!!

The idea I had was to have somewhere like CVJ make custom stub shafts, similar to the Merkur stub shafts, that had the 6X100, 6X112, or both that would go through the Subaru upright. Then you could use the VW Type 4 or Porsche 930 CV joints on both ends with have like 22 degrees articulation (stock Merkur is 17) and are burly. Then shafts you just have to decide 4130 or not and determine the length needed. Of course, this idea was all for a crossmember like yours to use on the Merkur and have Subaru rear uprights, brakes, and struts, IRS with full adjustability, and the Supra diff. Maybe next year after the next raise.

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Grant Hughes

john vanlandingham Wrote:
>
>
> Damn, look what I found on my own website!!!!
> They look like this except the don't have that
> Soooper Bitchin Driveshaft Adaptor which lets
> Xratty boys bolt these into their cars.
> http://www.rallyrace.net/jvab/spgm/gal/Diff_Stuff/
> diffstuff006.JPG[/]

That's cool and all but those aren't solid (live) axles.

The C clip axles I mean are in regular old live axles, and the axle is retained 100% by a C clip that slides into a groove on the spline end, and gets wedged into a recess in the side gear in the diff. So to remove the axle, besides undoing whatever needs to be done on the brake end, you have to pop the cover, unbolt the spider gear shaft and slide it out, then push the axles in and remove the C clip.

But I forgot to mention the really GOOD part... all C clip axles I have ever seen (this includes the 8.8, as well as the 7.5 and of course the GM things) has the outer roller bearing ride directly on the axle! And yeah it does wear through the hardened layer, and creates a perfect weak spot for the axle to break at, right at the worst place you could have one.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Pete Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

>
> That's cool and all but those aren't solid (live)
> axles.
>
> The C clip axles I mean are in regular old live
> axles, and the axle is retained 100% by a C clip
> that slides into a groove on the spline end, and
> gets wedged into a recess in the side gear in the
> diff. So to remove the axle, besides undoing
> whatever needs to be done on the brake end, you
> have to pop the cover, unbolt the spider gear
> shaft and slide it out, then push the axles in and
> remove the C clip.
>
> But I forgot to mention the really GOOD part...
> all C clip axles I have ever seen (this includes
> the 8.8, as well as the 7.5 and of course the GM
> things) has the outer roller bearing ride directly
> on the axle! And yeah it does wear through the
> hardened layer, and creates a perfect weak spot
> for the axle to break at, right at the worst place
> you could have one.
>
> Pete Remner
> Cleveland, Ohio
>
> 1984 RX-7 reshell
> 1978

Sorry Pete ...But this info is rumors ... It takes almost 80% ++++ of the force of breaking an axle in two to pull the C-clip button off the axle end ..I pay the bills (or did ) doing gear train work 15 years or more.. Never once have seen a c-clip or button fale..All the c-clip rumors come from when GM had some soft c-clips in the early 70s late 60s..The rule in drag racing on the no c-clip axles ..Has nothing to do with the c-clip being weak..As most thing..Its if the axle breaks is what thats all about ..

And on "waring a axle to the point of breaking " ...Can happen sure ..Come across some over years sure.. But if you can get one that dicked up and still be driving ...Your a F@#$ckin moron..!!!!!!!!.. It poors oil out the brake drums .. The drum rubs on the shoes .. And it make nasty sounds for a year..Its not near as easy as your saying .. Have had far more "press bearing axle" break at the outer bearing ..20 to 1 on this ..When the moron runs the press bearing axle to the point the bearing comes apart..The axle comes out of the car ...You still have the clip holding the C-clip axle in...And if you break a press bearing axle they come out of the car almost as much as a c-clip..

If anyone feels the need to run a C-clip axle ..Do so ..Theres ALOT of BS info and rumor in the car world ..And just because "Hot Rod TV said so or your brother inlaw whos a plumber and "Know all about cars said so ... Be careful .. When I owner my shop ..Its funny how the inlaws and freinds know more about cars then I did .. (eyeroll)..

And they wondered why I gave up ...LOL

David

Hazardous Toys inc

PS The 80%+++ number comes from Strange Axles not me ..

I personally like the 8.8 and have seen them take more abuse than most rally cars
could dream of doing to it, as in 4x4 and prerunners hell i say not that bad of a
choice plus there almost as cheep as Toyota. The part i don't like is the size of
the diff and the ones with aluminum housings get stressed out and have some
failures, I think its due to that the 8.8 has a more centered pinion and the gear
meshing is shorted and not stretched out like the 9in on the bottom of the ring radius.
Or something to that accord with the helical gears.


I am not an
expert just what I have got from some builders and read. still going to stick to
yoda as a better idea over dana's and 8.8, or just do what John Lane did with his
monster and ford 9 it. If anything i say is wrong please correct me I don't want
to spreed bad info even if its 10 years down the road to people that will never know
the difference.

So also um just thinking out loud to pull a c-clip axle out racing you would have to
effectively rip your caliper off or pull the bolt plate out or shear all 5 studs
and lose all your break Assembly I figure you lose a bearing limp it and toss the
axle and put in your next bone yard er in. Figure, too if you broke the axle
somethings up and something was meant to break that day unless your really putting
down big hp

---

TSSFAB.US No HYPE just parts!!!! And check us out on Facebook!!!

Haztoys Wrote:
> Sorry Pete ...But this info is rumors ... It takes
> almost 80% ++++ of the force of breaking an axle
> in two to pull the C-clip button off the axle end
> ..I pay the bills (or did ) doing gear train work
> 15 years or more.. Never once have seen a c-clip
> or button fale..

Never said the C clip fails. Just that retaining the axle at the very inside means that if it breaks anywhere, right at the splines, at the bearing, etc - the axle will part ways with the car. And the way the bearing rides on the axle makes a terrific weak spot.

> And on "waring a axle to the point of breaking "
> ...Can happen sure ..Come across some over years
> sure.. But if you can get one that dicked up and
> still be driving ...Your a F@#$ckin
> moron..!!!!!!!!

Didn't say you didn't have to be a moron to do it... But it's still a horrible idea. And even a tiny ridge is still a stress riser.

I have seen 'em worn 1/16" in and still not leak from the seal. And at that point you can cram in an extended bearing and keep on truckin'.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

I was making some real YANK when I started breaking Volvo axles off in the splines of the (welded cuz every limited slip proved to be hopeless) carrier.

My 9" axle has everything in the world available for it. The SOB is heavy; even with the aluminum center section. The pinion hangs wayyyy down low where it is forever getting bashed to hell and thus I have a permanent pinion seal leak. Kind of annoying that is.

Were I to do it over again I'd be inclined to reach for an 8.8 with a spool or a Toyota V8 Landcruiser thing assuming that the right axle raio can be had for it.

My motor makes enough YANK that I use a 3.0 final drive ratio with a bit more reduction ratio in the Jerico four speed to still get off the start line and mop the floor with those guys in their 4X4 turbo things that have to spend big bucks to work around the soda straw.

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JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

Welded dif.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2009 09:37AM by Andrew_Frick.

Andrew_Frick Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > Welded dif.
>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at Feb 25, 2009 by
> Andrew_Frick.


No, that's a welded ring and pinion! lol

It's a joke - as was disclosed on another forum.

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-Jason

Don't show that to anyone on specialstage.

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Grant Hughes