Seems to me that an epoxy primer is what the body guys dig for coating bare metal.

Carl S Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Seems to me that an epoxy primer is what the body
> guys dig for coating bare metal.



Does that mean I should even remove the e-coat (envirocoat?) before using an epoxy primer? Or will it stick to the e-coat as well as bare metal...

So, I had some fun with a 4inch cupped wire wheel last night. Took nearly 2 hours to do the one wheelwell. Now that I know what to do, I will probably be able to do another one in an hour.







Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2009 08:23AM by Daniel Buehler.

that looks all too famliar...

how covered in stringy, goopey crap did you get? look like Nuwan ?


I'll get you the info for the paint...i think i have the spec sheet around. at the very least the can is still in the basement...

---

Chris



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2009 02:22PM by Do It Sidewayz.

Do It Sidewayz Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> that looks all too famliar...
>
> how covered in stringy, goopey crap did you get?

I felt like I'd stuck my head in a cotton-candy machine!

> look like Nuwan ?
>

Just like him!
>
> I'll get you the info for the paint...i think i
> have the spec sheet around. at the very least the
> can is still in the basement...
>
> Chris
>


I also learned that when a cupped wire wheel starts to give up the ghost, the end is near. When it started to loose it's quills, I felt like I was being attacked by an bionic porcupine.






Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/05/2009 06:13AM by Daniel Buehler.

Daniel Buehler Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> I also learned that when a cupped wire wheel
> starts to give up the ghost, the end is near. When
> it started to loose it's quills, I felt like I was
> being attacked by an bionic porcupine.
>

Yeah but everything in life relative, eh?
Those shooting quills hurt, but I could get FILLED, St.Bartholomew-ed all to hell and I'd nary flinch, cause i knew relative to getting that fucking thing across cheek and chin set the bar way over there.

Besides being an old salty sea dog at this shit, we laugh at danger!


But looking good on the shell even if it is a blue Sub-a-rat.

Practise someplace less obvious.

And if'n you blow thru, don't worry too much.
Get an assistant to hold a convenient hunk of aluminum or copper flush against the outside surface and fill the hole by aiming at the edge and using short "Bops".
>
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Yeah, those wire wheels like to shoot shit right under your top layer, so that when you move your ______ you get stabbed all the goddamn time. They work great though. And john's right. Its all relative. I've taken a 9inch wire wheel to the chest before (from the BIG 9inch grinders) I was lucky I was wearing the jacket i was, or I would have a pretty sweet scar.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Daniel Buehler Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Carl S Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Seems to me that an epoxy primer is what the
> body
> > guys dig for coating bare metal.
>
>
>
> Does that mean I should even remove the e-coat
> (envirocoat?) before using an epoxy primer? Or
> will it stick to the e-coat as well as bare
> metal...
>
>
> First rally car, a '94 Subarat is in progress...

That I dont know, not enough body knowledge on my part. I just know that the body guy at the shop loves epoxy primer.

I spent 4 hours yesterday wire-wheeling concrete off of a rock crusher. No incidents.

My favorite Dupont industrial Imron has been discontinued here in California but I was pleasantly surprised buy what my friend in the paint store suggested to replace it.

Tufcote® 3.5 HG-P™ High Gloss Alkyd with Polyurethane Modification

We just sprayed Al's rollcage with Tufcote primer and top coat. It's even reasonably priced compared to Imron at about $50 per gallon for paint and $20 for the activator.

For my money in the land of badass epoxy primers the class of the field is from Sherwin-Williams Aerospace Coatings: CM0483928 It's a zinc-chromate primer for painting airplanes and it's amazing but priced accordingly.

-Tim

Tim Taylor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> Tufcote® 3.5 HG-P™ High Gloss Alkyd with
> Polyurethane Modification
>
> We just sprayed Al's rollcage with Tufcote primer
> and top coat. It's even reasonably priced
> compared to Imron at about $50 per gallon for
> paint and $20 for the activator.
>
> -Tim

Tim, any special gun/setup to spray that on, or will any setup from home deeeepoe do?

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Tim Taylor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My favorite Dupont industrial Imron has been
> discontinued here in California but I was
> pleasantly surprised buy what my friend in the
> paint store suggested to replace it.
>
> Tufcote® 3.5 HG-P™ High Gloss Alkyd with
> Polyurethane Modification
>
> We just sprayed Al's rollcage with Tufcote primer
> and top coat. It's even reasonably priced
> compared to Imron at about $50 per gallon for
> paint and $20 for the activator.
>
> For my money in the land of badass epoxy primers
> the class of the field is from Sherwin-Williams
> Aerospace Coatings: CM0483928 It's a
> zinc-chromate primer for painting airplanes and
> it's amazing but priced accordingly.
>

Zinc-chromate primer is the best! In my last ocupation I had acess to all I wanted. I think I painted more home projects with it than aircraft parts. What else are you going to do at lunch time?

Chris

Are these primers best applied to bare metal, or can the be applied to the e-coat as well?

I'm trying to figure out if I should be stipping the entire coating down to the metal.

Oh, and being totaly new to this, do I need to protect the bare metal for the next month or so before I do the final paint? It will be trailered (most likely on an open trailer) twice before final paint.

Thanks



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2009 08:53AM by Daniel Buehler.

Daniel Buehler Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Are these primers best applied to bare metal, or
> can the be applied to the e-coat as well?
>
> I'm trying to figure out if I should be stipping
> the entire coating down to the metal.
>
> Oh, and being totaly new to this, do I need to
> protect the bare metal for the next month or so
> before I do the final paint? It will be trailered
> (most likely on an open trailer) twice before
> final paint.
>
> Thanks
>
> First rally car, a '94 Subarat is in progress...
>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at Feb 6, 2009 by
> Daniel Buehler.

Ahem...not to be the bad guy here but...while this may well be your first rally car odds are it won't be your last rally car. Stuff (groan) happens to rally cars. Don't over think or over prep the shell. Chip Foose would strip it to bare metal, no reason for you to do so. Scuff and paint. The bare metal can set for a month or two depending on heat and moisture. If it surface rusts you'll be sanding again. I'd probably primer it for now, although primer isn't considered water proof like a top coat is. Subarus have pretty thin sheet metal btw, so don't sand or grind any more than needed.

Thanks. So... Should I primer the areas I've exposed, then re-apply the primer after more welding and fabrication? I have no problems with the re-applying idea.

and,

Yeah, I agree, I'm probably overthinking, overbuilding, and overpreping my first car... But, that's because like you said: "Stuff (groan) happens to rally cars." and I figure I might as well figure most of this stuff out on the first one - in preparation for the inevitable second one.

So...

What's the deal with seam welding, How much of the shell can be seem welded before the cage goes in?

None? Part? All? I've heard all three...