http://www.rennbay.com/944-big-brake-kit-p-83.html?osCsid=70e21e53dc20d7870dde81d517d2c911

I was doing some research on my brake upgrade, and since the 944 caliper is the same as the Peugeot caliper, and the Volvo calipers bolt onto the Peugeot - in theory this 944 Wilwood kit should bolt onto the 240 Volvo...

Probably could piece it together cheaper - but considering how complete the kit is - the price isn't bad at all...

Not sayin it would work for sure though - but I'm 95% sure it would bolt on.

Rabin

That's super expensive for what it is. If it came with rotors and hats maybe, but just the adapter, caliper, and lines?

---

Grant Hughes

Sorry for the threadjack. :-)

When running stages in the Colt I lose pedal firmness and actually have to pump the brakes to get the pedal up. When not running stages they're fine.

I changed from DOT 3 to a synthetic and still no improvement.

My calipers are cast iron toyota 4x4 4 pots and someone suggested to me that the calipers could possibly be overheating and causing the problem.

Opinions ?

Morten2 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sorry for the threadjack. :-)

This is Rallyanarchy.
Theadjacks are expected.
Apologies not.
>
> When running stages in the Colt I lose pedal
> firmness and actually have to pump the brakes to
> get the pedal up. When not running stages they're
> fine.

Pad kickback.
If you have one red c**t hair too loose an adjustment to the taper roller bearings then in hard use the bearings slop is multiplied by the diameter and you can get a wobble at the rotor tip that will push the pads back.

Gawddam taper roller bearings are touch as hell, though.
Adam Crane at Doo Wops had gone a red c**t hair too tight in in half a day had discolored the bearings to a straw color, and thats bad.

>
> I changed from DOT 3 to a synthetic and still no
> improvement.

Sythetic as in a DOT5.
Get that rubber shit out. Ask Dave Clark how near being bludgeoned he was once when he roped me into actually driving to the fucking EASTSIDE wher i NEVER set foot to help him bleed brakes that "I swear I've done [Sgt Schultz voice on] nothing, NOTHING! [/Sgt. Schultz voice off] to the brakes..

Dave was being the normal control freak and doing all the bleeding, me the pumping.
Eventually after a quart or so he had to get another bottle and that's when I saw "Synthetic DOT5".
Well it was more a scene from Gomer Pyle and Sgt Carter!
>
> My calipers are cast iron toyota 4x4 4 pots and
> someone suggested to me that the calipers could
> possibly be overheating and causing the problem.

Oh fuck.
Someone. Say who the fuck it was. Say in what fucking context.
Someone....oh the guy you were getting a fucking latte from?
What did "someone" suggest as the reason the calipers were overheating?

Was "someone" aware why cast iron is used?
Did "someone" know that stability under even orange hot conditions is why we use cast iron for lots of shit, like ROTORS?

Did you say something that made him think they were subject to unusual usage?

Has "anybody" looked to see if all the pistons are moving freely and not sticking?

I'm not fence mending Morten, I'm answewring because this is a common enough problem that discussing it can help others like the poor guy in the 99 Morley at DooWops where Sean Tennis and I jumped in to help him with wheels NOT TURNING without BIG EFFORT.

You can glean good info but EVERYBODY would benefit a LOT more if every single question was answered in detail.

You don't like my tone and I say, to quote a literary reference, "Go talk to the Chaplin and get a TS chit"

Now if you answer the querstions honestly then your problems will be eventually solved.

>
> Opinions ?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

And the solution to the pad kickback, other than good bearings, is either install springs behind the piston inside of the caliper to keep slight pressure on them, or install 2 lb residual valves inline to keep enough pressure to the piston to keep them up against the rotor.
The last option is what I opted for. Expect it to happen and deal with it. I find I get the same brake capabilities, just have to push it alot further when this happens. The first few times I was like, oh fuck pump pump push. Now I just push really fucking hard and make it happen.
One of the big ongoing issues I've been arguing with Mark about my car and Steve's new STI which has a Podrive booster eliminator and how you actually have to use some muscles to push the brakes on a manual pedal. You actually get used to it and start to like it really quick. The fun part's after spending a few days and a couple hundred miles driving the rally car and you hop back in an econobox pos sedan and lock up the brakes and nearly stall the car trying to move it because it's made for 450 lbs land whales and is completely uninspiring. Anyhow, back to the Vulvas.

---

Grant Hughes

Pricey yes - just haven't seen a lot of ready to go out of the box set ups that you just bolt on and go...

I know JVL and others have done up adapter plates for other calipers - but I haven't seen anything readily available for radial mount calipers.

Kit does come with your choice of pads too if that helps make it any better...

It's moot for me though since it won't even work on my car anymore - I was just passin' along info in case anyone wanted it.

Rabin

NoCoast Wrote:
....new STI which
> has a Podrive booster eliminator and how you
> actually have to use some muscles to push the
> brakes on a manual pedal. You actually get used
> to it and start to like it really quick. The fun
> part's after spending a few days and a couple
> hundred miles driving the rally car and you hop
> back in an econobox pos sedan and lock up the
> brakes and nearly stall the car trying to move it
> because it's made for 450 lbs land whales and is
> completely uninspiring. Anyhow, back to the
> Vulvas.
>

I have no power brakes in my GTX and it kicks ass. have to push hard though.

I also have the crappy tapered roller bearings crap going on. damn its so annoying. the torque spec on driveshaft nuts is like 116-170 ft-lbs really big range, kinda weird. i think i did them to 160 or so, but i still get the brake slop.

DirkaDirkaJack Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> I also have the crappy tapered roller bearings
> crap going on. damn its so annoying. the torque
> spec on driveshaft nuts is like 116-170 ft-lbs
> really big range, kinda weird. i think i did them
> to 160 or so, but i still get the brake slop.

No, your setup is different, its typical FWD style just extremely undersized for 50 bhp much less whatever the GTX puts thru.

The torque spec for the type on the front of the Vodge Dolt or Adam's Toiletta, or Volvo 240, RX7s etc is in the range of 4-6 inch/lb. That's what I can do with thumb and forefinger.

I know the GTX set-up, and even have some front knuckles left over from when i did the big brake set-up on the GTX that Derek Bottle had, which might be yours (Do you have Willwood Superlites in front and RX7 calipers in back?) and if you are sure your wheelbearings are fresh and tight and you have any movement it could be that the knuckles themselves are worn out on their ID.
Seen that before.
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

no shit?! you have the Bottles Special modified-for-Wilwoods uprights? Dude! I really need those, i trashed a front upright ad Doo Wops and was going to have to find some new uprights somewhere and then find some machine shop in portland to modify them. perhaps I will make a trip up to Seattle in the near future to pick those up, also have some work for William to do on the GTX.

DirkaDirkaJack Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> no shit?! you have the Bottles Special
> modified-for-Wilwoods uprights? Dude! I really
> need those, i trashed a front upright ad Doo Wops
> and was going to have to find some new uprights
> somewhere and then find some machine shop in
> portland to modify them. perhaps I will make a
> trip up to Seattle in the near future to pick
> those up, also have some work for William to do on
> the GTX.


Better find what we did which was some Fird.mercury something, shorter steering arms for quicker steering.

And yeah William and I were discussing this and i was telling him about shitting the bed when i was working on the rear set up and looked at the diff and saw huge cracks in the subframe which was splitting all over.

Listen: He said soemthing about you having some M14 rod ends or something for the links.

Forget that for making links.
Going metric just cause you got some once is no savings.
I'm organising his production stuff that needs machining, and I tell you DO NOT use metric rod ends or spherical bearings if you can avoid it.

And you can avoid it. Minimum I'd do a 5/8".
The cost of one LH thread metric tap would be more than 4 links.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

DirkaDirkaJack Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> no shit?! you have the Bottles Special
> modified-for-Wilwoods uprights? Dude! I really
> need those, i trashed a front upright ad Doo Wops
> and was going to have to find some new uprights
> somewhere and then find some machine shop in
> portland to modify them. perhaps I will make a
> trip up to Seattle in the near future to pick
> those up, also have some work for William to do on
> the GTX.

If you want to go back to modified GTX parts and get rid of your bump steer geometry I have an extra pair that I can machine like this for you.

I sold my shit to Matt Manspeaker and I thoguht that DirkaDirkaJack bought that car (or the decendent of that car) so I thought your car had my old shit on it.

The front knucles are the front 2wd knucles off a 323 GTX also found on the Ford/Mercary Topaz.

So I am a bit lost DirkaDirkaJack, does your car have big massive Wilwoods or not?

I found the fear of death plenty motivating to press on the brakes plenty hard with out power assist.

Morten sounds like there is something not in perfict alignment allowing for wigggle - I would work hard to make that go away - for me I like brakes to work at the same point for each stop. I have driven with the other option and I find that not fun.

---

In the long run reality always wins.

yEAH dERKEK, HE HAS YOUR STUFF. wE TALKED AND SEEMS THE BOTTOM PINCHie BOLT lug IS FAWKED UP, (ooops BooBoo Anna has been on the Word Doc again and she likes Caps Lock) and the hole in the knuckle all wallowed out so the pinch function is lost.
I suspect the fact the struts have so much travel and the knuck rams into the arm and has too much angle at the ball joint is the root cause, so he's said he'd try and drag the shit up and see if we can do do some knuckles to let him reatin the big brakes.
Remember how i was all horrified how the knuck was hard on the arm at full droop or really the last inch or so?
That needs to be cured with droop straps of shorter inserts, and I just happen to have some somewhat shorter DMS 50mm inserts just over there.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

yep, the brake setup on that car kicks ass for sure. As soon as my new uprights show up and i find some cash laying around i plan on heading up to JVL's to get the new uprights modified. hopefully in a week or two.

I talked to the Baldini's and they have the same problem with too much droop and some good ideas on how to fix it. Also, yes i am switching back to 4WD uprights...i have my reasons...no, you can't talk me out of it

DirkaDirkaJack Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> yep, the brake setup on that car kicks ass for
> sure. As soon as my new uprights show up and i
> find some cash laying around i plan on heading up
> to JVL's to get the new uprights modified.
> hopefully in a week or two.
>
> I talked to the Baldini's and they have the same
> problem with too much droop and some good ideas on
> how to fix it. Also, yes i am switching back to
> 4WD uprights...i have my reasons...no, you can't
> talk me out of it

Getr those knuckles here ASAP, money is later.
The machine shop has time now, and i may be into the hospitale for serious ass surgery so hustle hustle.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.