Exhaust swage?

looking to have some parts of my exhaust be semi-removable. There a tool out there to expand the exhaust parts for a slip fit?

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-Tom
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These work a bit, depending on how much bigger you need to go.

Or take the pipes to an exhaust shop and have them do it on one of their big machines.

The tool that Carl shows works but tends to break easily if you only insert it part way into the pipe; it should be fully inserted. And it does not work too well (in my experience at least) with thick walled exhaust pipe. We have moved away from slips fits to flanges over the years; slip fits never seem to come apart well in a midnight service.

Regards,
Mark B.

Carl S Wrote:
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> These work a bit, depending on how much bigger you
> need to go.
>
> Or take the pipes to an exhaust shop and have them
> do it on one of their big machines.


Those expanders were only meant to straighten the old pipe under a car or a dent in the end of a new pipe. They do break fairly easily as they are a cheap cast iron in the fingers.

Slip ons (snicker) work ok, many teams use them with springs to hold together. There is less for rocks and such to bang off of. Leave the joint a bit loose and the spring tension will hold the seal at the bottom of the swage.

Flat flanges are easy, 2 or 3 bolt. Use a common flange and gasket such as a big block Chev at 3 holes and 2 1/2 in diameter. Ford and Chrysler used 2 holes and gaskets are available also in 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 in most part stores. Castlelated nuts help keep things from coming apart, keep the threads towards the back of the joint. I usually use flanges myself.

Ball and socket joints take up a little more room but afford better pipe flex and exhaust movement without cracking stuff. Spring loaded bolts work best.

The big trick would be to build a couple systems at once. I built spare catalytic converters for ACPs Evo while everything was new . Takes just a minute to unbolt and change.

If you wanted to make the trek way down here I would be happy to help you guys out for materials only.

heymagic Wrote:
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>
> If you wanted to make the trek way down here I
> would be happy to help you guys out for materials
> only.

Do those materials include beer?
>
>
>

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
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is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Oh and one point on flange bolts: we use grade 2, never grade 5 or 8. They alwasy get corroded on after the rally car sits a while; 3/8" grade 2 bolts are pretty easy to just rip apart with a coupla wrenches. Ditto for using lightweight exhaust u-bolts rather than the heavey duty ones.

Totally different story on spring loaded nuts-on-bolts holding together ball flanges; grade 8 only for us. Makes them usable multiple times, and can be turned off with an impact wrench and flexy socket adapter without destroying the bolts. Always use some anti-seize on these to make them release a bit better.

Regards,
Mark B.

I like slip fit tube connections if the are really loose and held together with springs. Otherwise V-band clamps are the only way to go.

Robert.

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Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
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> heymagic Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> > If you wanted to make the trek way down here
> I
> > would be happy to help you guys out for
> materials
> > only.
>
> Do those materials include beer?
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.jvab.f4.ca

No beer...'tis the drink of peasants. Rum, a proper refreshment steeped in history and approved by pirates everywhere ('ceptin maybe those holey ones in Somolia)

What do guys think of these? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DTC-60-912250S&N=700+115&autoview=sku

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www.performanceoptions.net

noypiesky Wrote:
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> What do guys think of these?
>
>


They work, kind of pricey . The T bolts can strip or get damaged from rocks.

Those are V-band clamps. I use them all the time on the exhaust systems at work (Caterpillar). The are extremely strong. I usually turn them so that the bolt is up and out of the way.

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Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

This was on my exhaust list as a possible joint - same issue as the summit one, but cheaper as it's agricultural designed http://store.airflo.com/casttcostfor.html

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-Jason

I use V-bands in my exhaust, as is most of the other Denver based cars and I'll personally never use anything else. Sure a bit pricey, but these are rally cars, what's not pricey. Plus time and effort have a value too.

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Grant Hughes

mack73 Wrote:
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> This was on my exhaust list as a possible joint -
> same issue as the summit one, but cheaper as it's
> agricultural designed
>
>
>
> 94 Golf
> www.Mack73.com

I'd spend the extra $14 and get the the stainless one. Way stronger and only needs one wrench ( deep socket) to take apart.

heymagic Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> mack73 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > This was on my exhaust list as a possible
> joint -
> > same issue as the summit one, but cheaper as
> it's
> > agricultural designed
> >
> >
> >
> > 94 Golf
> > www.Mack73.com
>
> I'd spend the extra $14 and get the the stainless
> one. Way stronger and only needs one wrench ( deep
> socket) to take apart.
>
>
But Gene, do you ever see problems with the SS bolts threads galling with heat and exposure? When SS otl threads start to gall, you are typically hosed, 'specially in rally service. Just wondering.

Mark B.