Exhaust swage?

NoCoast Wrote:
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> What is this spring slip fit nonsense ya'll
> talking bout? I haven't ever seen it.


I believe that is a symms group n exhaust.


Slip action detail. Loose fit so it comes apart with little effort.

Faster to take apart than v-bands, probably cheaper to make too.

Tom B Wrote:
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> hey hey, my carbon came into my possession for
> free otherwise it'd be aluminum....you know how it
> is, all the fun stuff you get at the start of the
> project gets the money, then everything near the
> end gets the cheap and easy so you can actually
> afford to run an event.
>
> I was thinking something like this for the
> joints:
>
>

Actually, that's exactly what we use on the race cars. You can run it loose enough that you can slip them on and off easily enough. Unless it gets bashed with a rock... Keep in mind you don't actually tighten the bolts all the way down. You gotta leave them a good bit loose to allow for expansion (especially with stainless steel). That's why you use locking nuts with them.

Ok, so we have V bands, The Thing Tom showed, and the spring held slip fit... Is anyone inherently worse or better then the others?

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

V-bands in certain places will hang down further. It'll depend upon the car really. On mine and the Golf, Rabbit, couple of Subarus, Audi, and I'm sure a few cars I'm forgetting, it's not been an issue.
With the slip fit, hard rock hits could make the slip fit more like a puzzle to try to fit together, but are likely cheaper.

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Grant Hughes

If you get the fisrt joint under the skid plate and the next joint on the upward curve just before the rear axle , projectile damage isn't so likely. ACP has V-bands on his Evo 9 and no big issues...and he has tried.... I use a 2 bolt flange at his cat on the back though.

That might work... not a bad way of doing it.

We use a v-clamp to bolt the "axle back" part of the system up. 3 bolt flange off header, then a 2 bolt flange about mid-way back. 4 peices (including header), 3 flanges.

http://fatboyraceworks.com/gallery/v/Civic/CivicExhaust/DSC00743.JPG.html
http://fatboyraceworks.com/gallery/v/Civic/CivicExhaust/

Why are you guys making the exhaust so many stinking pieces??

Maybe it's because of different car configurations, where they go over the axle.


But on my Subaru, i've got a "downpipe" which is basically an elbow off the turbo and goes down about 6 inches, Then a v-band clamp in a nice protected place. Then it's one piece all the way back to the tailpipe.



As far as Swedgeing and getting pipes expanded and what not. Just go to the local muffler shop. they all have the tool on the end of their bender. They throw the pipe on there, press the pedal, and get it done quick and easy.

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Chris

Do It Sidewayz Wrote:
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> Why are you guys making the exhaust so many
> stinking pieces??
>
> Maybe it's because of different car
> configurations, where they go over the axle.
>
>
> But on my Subaru, i've got a "downpipe" which is
> basically an elbow off the turbo and goes down
> about 6 inches, Then a v-band clamp in a nice
> protected place. Then it's one piece all the way
> back to the tailpipe.
>
>
>
> As far as Swedgeing and getting pipes expanded and
> what not. Just go to the local muffler shop. they
> all have the tool on the end of their bender.
> They throw the pipe on there, press the pedal, and
> get it done quick and easy.
>
> Chris

Why have different pieces? Different floor pan configurations. Sube is one of the easiest because the pipe doesn't go over a rear axle. Most cars do. So from the header or down pipe termination you need a joint and one pipe going back. If it goes up over an axle or Xmember the you should have a joint at that point for ease of removal. The last joint is optional but should be just at the rear mounted converter or muffler. This is because if you plug a cat or blow a muffler you can change it out quickly.