Any special techniques needed? Is it gonna be a bitch?

Everything is replumbed.

Front outlet on the master for the front brakes - T-fitting, and off to each front wheel

Rear outlet on the master - Adjustable Prop valve (bolted to side of Handbrake) - through handbrake master cylinder - T fitting - off to each rear wheel.

This is the handbrake i have


which uses this Wilwood master cylinder

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-MasterCylinders/004-CRRMC/index.asp

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Chris



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/29/2009 02:09PM by Do It Sidewayz.

so reading on SS...guys are saying i've basically gotta "bench" bleed it, by cracking open the fittings.

Do i want to pump the Handbrake also? or no?

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Chris

I do the dual master thing, so just gravity bleed until I get fluid leaking out of both rears, dont pump the handbrake. Then do the pressure bleeder thing to push the bubbles out of the handbrake, then regular pump the pedal and wrench thing with a friend.

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http://www.ckrally.com

Just let it gravity bleed onto some containers. No need to bench bleed anything, thats old wives tales.

+1 on the gravity bleed.

Where'd you get that handbrake setup? Size? Price?

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Michael LeCompte

pikespeakgtx Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> +1 on the gravity bleed.
>
> Where'd you get that handbrake setup? Size? Price?
>
> Michael LeCompte


Looks like a K-Sport (or knock off). I haven't used mine yet, but it does look like a quality piece - can be had for about 160 or so

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-Jason

I used a bit of gravity, and then just "normal" bleeding with pedal. Nothing fancy, nothing "hard" or tricky about it...

As long as the handbrake isn't touched, the fluid flows straight through it - thus there's nothing to it compared to bleeding a completely fresh "normal" system. That just means that it'll take a while to get some fluid into the hoses before you can start pumping the pedal. Gravity will take care of that...

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Brgrds
Brian

Think i did a decent job of it last night. Think there is still some air in there, but i left it for a while to let the air work it's way places.

Pedal feels pretty decent.

The HB set-up came from Motorsport tools.com. Was like 60 pounds. Included a wilwood master cylinder (3/4". I don't know who's copying who...

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Chris

What if you "prime" the handbrake by filling it up and then hooking the lines on it, and then bleeding it "normal?" Would that help any?

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Do It Sidewayz Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Think i did a decent job of it last night. Think
> there is still some air in there, but i left it
> for a while to let the air work it's way places.
>
> Pedal feels pretty decent.
>
> The HB set-up came from Motorsport tools.com. Was
> like 60 pounds. Included a wilwood master cylinder
> (3/4". I don't know who's copying who...
>
> Chris

I'm a fan of this one from Comp Brake in the UK.

Compbrake for 60 GBP has a hydro handbrake with a seperate bias adjuster included on the side. Dudd'nt look a bad deal a-tall. Specially since it's black and not all sizzy-fied like them otherens. But it doesn't lock out.


Which can be found here....
http://compbrake.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=17&products_id=148


Ksport one is idental to these:
There's one manufacturer making these in Taiwan for all these tuner companies.
Most important question is: What's your favorite flavor?






Here's the Driftworks one which looks like a match for the Motorsport's tool one.


Only downside to ditching the cable e-brake entirely is it's kinda a scary thought if you should destory a line you got NO brakes.

I thought Timm would like this one from the TRD Corolla levin Sprinter Trueno Special Edition Bible

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Michael LeCompte

Hahaha, nice. Good reference pic!


That UK comp brake one looks good. CNC also makes some decent looking ones (they are shiny though) for pretty reasonable prices if I remember right. Thats what Mark is running in the STI.

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

The Comp Brake one is nice, and would have been my choice, but no locking feature which i needed.

With the 6 spd swap, You ahve 2 options with the big rear hubs/diff

1. Run the Big STI parking brake, and get the "group n" rotors which are $159 USD a piece, and only available from 2 manufacturers.

or

2. Gut the parking brake/backing plates, and just run the normal R160 2 Pot rotors, and use a Hydro brake.

I got all new (r160) rotors for "evaluation purposes", So the choice was easy.

Plus...i couldn't even pull up on the stock e-brake enough the hold the car when i was belted in with HANS. Stage starts meant i was "Heel-toeing" to hold the car, and blip the gas!

I bolted a prop valve just like the COMP brake one to the side of my HB which was $40 from Summit.

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Chris

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What if you "prime" the handbrake by filling it up
> and then hooking the lines on it, and then
> bleeding it "normal?" Would that help any?
>
> Feisty Peacock?
>
> My noodle I doodled was ate by a poodle

No, you will still get air induced at the inlet line and then have to bleed it all the way thru the ebrake cyl anyway.

interesting . . .
Toyota Bible-
what is that T device about between the handbrake and MC?

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"I put the hurt on dirt" - adam crane
http://CraneRallyCrew.com
corolla gt-s "Patches"
Op: S.S.

Do It Sidewayz Wrote:

>
> I bolted a prop valve just like DAVE AMOR DID
> to the side of my HB which was $40 from Summit.
>
> Chris


FIXED!

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Gone fishing