well, its about goddamned time!! (cage pics)

see? I really wasn't talking out of my ass.....roll cage baby! woot!




now some roll cage goodness...










btw, that's Lars Wolfe from WORKS Evo, which is right in Napa at Infineon Raceway.




guess I'll have to take out the interior lights







on schedule to be done by next weekend....

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Is that a SFI rated milk crate? Whoo hooo, great progress!

heymagic Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Is that a SFI rated milk crate? Whoo hooo,
> great progress!


Come on, mang, the real question is is that an SFI rated unexpired milk crate that is ready to turn into dust like when Dracula is touched by daylight at 2 years while ordinary milk crates can and so last 40 years and still save your life.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Hope you don't bang your head on that windshield bar. Seriously, it's straight across, no bends?
And I hope you never have to take out the dash bar. Do the heater cores come out of those things without removing that? You might want to check that out.

I have a lot of clearance on the windshield bar...not too worried about it.

and yes, I hope I never have to take out the dash bar as well. I wasn't going to mess with the heater core...should I be?

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

In my limited experience installing one WRX heater assembly into a car with a homogenized (homologated) cage installed, I can tell you hacksaws and/or sawzalls and duct tape were necessary to get the plastic boxes back into the car. Heater still worked, but it probably lost a little efficiency with the multi-piece heater box.

---

Andrew Steere
Lyndeborough, NH
KB1PJY

fiasco Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> In my limited experience installing one WRX heater
> assembly into a car with a homogenized
> (homologated) cage installed, I can tell you
> hacksaws and/or sawzalls and duct tape were
> necessary to get the plastic boxes back into the
> car. Heater still worked, but it probably lost a
> little efficiency with the multi-piece heater
> box.
>
>
>
> Andrew Steere, 1973
> Lyndeborough, NH
> KB1PJY

yeah, I want to keep the stock vent/fans/etc for defrosting...and so I think I need to heat to still work for that. plus I know its all one piece...so its all or nothing (or something very custom).

I'm planning on pulling the AC compressor and lines...that's about it.

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> heymagic Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Is that a SFI rated milk crate? Whoo
> hooo,
> > great progress!
>
>
> Come on, mang, the real question is is that an SFI
> rated unexpired milk crate that is ready to turn
> into dust like when Dracula is touched by daylight
> at 2 years while ordinary milk crates can and so
> last 40 years and still save your life.

LMAO!

---

Michael LeCompte

Jon Burke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have a lot of clearance on the windshield
> bar...not too worried about it.
>
> and yes, I hope I never have to take out the dash
> bar as well. I wasn't going to mess with the
> heater core...should I be?
>
> Jon Burke - KI6LSW
> Blog:
> 'Holy Shit!' @ 4:10


I'm just saying if the heater core ever sprang a leak (they do that sometimes, you know) it might be nice if you could actually get it out of the car to replace it. When I do a Subaru cage the side lateral bars come down along the A pillar and drop down in front of the stock dash bar (not behind as in the pictures of your car) so you can unbolt it out of the car and all the climate control stuff can be removed as easily as stock. Just something to think about.

Doivi Clarkinen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jon Burke Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I have a lot of clearance on the windshield
> > bar...not too worried about it.
> >
> > and yes, I hope I never have to take out the
> dash
> > bar as well. I wasn't going to mess with
> the
> > heater core...should I be?
> >
> > Jon Burke - KI6LSW
> > Blog:
> > 'Holy Shit!' @ 4:10
>
>
> I'm just saying if the heater core ever sprang a
> leak (they do that sometimes, you know) it might
> be nice if you could actually get it out of the
> car to replace it. When I do a Subaru cage the
> side lateral bars come down along the A pillar and
> drop down in front of the stock dash bar (not
> behind as in the pictures of your car) so you can
> unbolt it out of the car and all the climate
> control stuff can be removed as easily as stock.
> Just something to think about.
>


I hear yah......there's still a lot of sound deadening back there i'd like to get out of there too.

anyway, Lars welded in all the feet tonight, and there's actually more clearance there than it looks. I can pull it out if I need to (I guess..unbolt and pull up, then out), thanks for the feed back! more pics coming....we did a simple roof 'V'....and the door X's are going to be bent, not 3 bars.

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Yo Fiasco I am fairly sure we used SFI and FIA (but not RA) compliant aluminum tape, not lowly duct tape, to put all the heater box moldings back together. I'd love to see how Prodrive does it, as long as someone else is paying.

When the heater core leaks plug the lines to it and sell the car! No one should ever have to take a Subie dash apart twice! ;-)

Seriously, best of luck with yer build Jon!

---

Ted Mendham
www.rensport.net

MOAR!

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

John, what series are you building the cage for?

That cage is legal for NASA or Rally America.
All one has to do is build to FIA 253 and you're good for either series.

---

Grant Hughes

Reason I ask is that the V configuration in the roof requires an inverse V in the rear backstays to support the single stress point in the main hoop - at least in NASA rules.