i plan to run a few tsd and rally x events. should i shell out some cash and get the good stuff? or am i underestimating dot 3\4?

Until you find yourself getting a soft pedal because you are left foot braking so hard you will be fine with the regular stuff. I don't think you'll be using your brakes that hard in a TSD or rallycross.

I wouldn't worry about it for rallyx. With an aggressive co-driver, doing back-back runs in our SRT-4 (it won't turn without lfb), we make the brakes stink, but we don't overheat them. We drive the shit out of that car, but rallyx courses just aren't long enough to cause brake fade. You're more likely to overheat the car before overheating the brakes.

---

james phillips
Volvo 242 GT (being built...)
Scooby killing 04 Dodge Neon SRT Rallycross monster
Lincoln, NE

I'm sure your pads will lose efficiency before the fuild.

The tsds and rally-Xs would have to be a LOT more awesome than I've seen for it to matter.

Fresh, quality brake fluid only becomes a checklist item for me at:
performance rallys
track days

---

Ted Mendham
www.rensport.net

good output guys thank you, i have over done the brake system as is, so now i know i should be good with the on the shelf stock.

I overheated the brakes to the point of no return (felt like the car was accelerating while I was standing on the n-go pedal) trying to teach myself to LFB at a cone-derby in one of the Minis a few years ago, don't know if it was fluid or the awesomeness that is EBC green pads. So, it is possible to get fade in a light car in a parking lot, _IF_ you drive as badly as me...

t

---

Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec

it makes sense the pads would be the first to fade, iam running rather docile pads for everyday enjoyment as well as the inevitable -5 degree days, here is my set up, another sunny after noon and i should have a roller and stopper again.

Ted Andkilde Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I overheated the brakes to the point of no return
> (felt like the car was accelerating while I was
> standing on the n-go pedal) trying to teach myself
> to LFB at a cone-derby in one of the Minis a few
> years ago, don't know if it was fluid or the
> awesomeness that is EBC green pads. So, it is
> possible to get fade in a light car in a parking
> lot, _IF_ you drive as badly as me...
>
> t


That's because you were learning and hadn't figured out the finesse yet. The first stage rally I did in the Omni I taught myself how to LFB. The car had brand new competition pads and rotors at the beginning of the rally. It was a very very twisty event with lots of downhills (remember Spider Lake long, Gene?). By the end of the rally the pads were down to metal to metal and shooting sparks by my window on turns. I came into the finish control with the brake piston boots on fire. But the light bulb came on during that event and after thatI learned finesse and brake pads would last 2 or 3 events.

Sorry if you're not running Motul then you're just asking for brake failure.

I put some of the better stuff off Autozone's shelf in my car back in 07, just to get them bled and check for leaks and stuff. Figured I'd replace it all with some good brake fluid before I competed. That was 3 hill climbs, one stage rally, and about 300 hard testing miles ago. Just last week drained that fluid for the first time. It smelled rather odd.

---

Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sorry if you're not running Motul then you're just
> asking for brake failure.
>

For a rallycross or tsd? Nah.


> I put some of the better stuff off Autozone's
> shelf in my car back in 07, just to get them bled
> and check for leaks and stuff. Figured I'd
> replace it all with some good brake fluid before I
> competed. That was 3 hill climbs, one stage
> rally, and about 300 hard testing miles ago. Just
> last week drained that fluid for the first time.
> It smelled rather odd.
>
>

So... are you saying you had some brake failures here or are you contradicting your above statement?

I'm contradicting my above statement.
For TSD and rallycross, your fine with a good brake fluid, no need to go crazy expensive.

---

Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sorry if you're not running Motul then you're just
> asking for brake failure.

LOL are you sponsored by or sell Motul? j/k

There's a lot of good fluids out on the market more than suitable for club racing.

If you're looking for PRO stuff and the rest of your brake system is already optimized, then Castrol SRF is the ticket. The Tilton TSR-1 is a cheaper replacemnt but with higher outgassing temps than SRF. But until then putting that kind of fluid in the stock pin-sliding calipers and OE discs, is like running 110 race gas in a minivan.

The best is to bleed the system often with fresh fluid from an unopend bottle, fluid is very hydroscopic and starts absorbing moisture as soon as the seal is broken. It only takes around 1-2% on moisture to bring the outgasing temps down to 100ºC.

Doivi Clarkinen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ted Andkilde Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I overheated the brakes to the point of no
> return
> > (felt like the car was accelerating while I
> was
> > standing on the n-go pedal) trying to teach
> myself
> > to LFB at a cone-derby in one of the Minis a
> few
> > years ago, don't know if it was fluid or the
> > awesomeness that is EBC green pads. So, it
> is
> > possible to get fade in a light car in a
> parking
> > lot, _IF_ you drive as badly as me...
> >
> > t
>
>
> That's because you were learning and hadn't
> figured out the finesse yet. The first stage
> rally I did in the Omni I taught myself how to
> LFB. The car had brand new competition pads and
> rotors at the beginning of the rally. It was a
> very very twisty event with lots of downhills
> (remember Spider Lake long, Gene?). By the end of
> the rally the pads were down to metal to metal and
> shooting sparks by my window on turns. I came
> into the finish control with the brake piston
> boots on fire. But the light bulb came on during
> that event and after thatI learned finesse and
> brake pads would last 2 or 3 events.

Spider Lake..I think the best rally stage ever.

I've always used regular Dot4. LMA used to be the trick stuff, probably not available anymore...

heymagic Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> I've always used regular Dot4. LMA used to be the
> trick stuff, probably not available anymore...
>
>

GTLMA is still available- at least in the US. I've got it on my shelf. Current product is made in Germany and labeled as synthetic Brake Fluid. Minimum wet boiling point is 329F (165C).

---

Bruce Beauvais
Too many SAABs to count