I'm stumped...

I'm trying to figure out a decent way to mount a secure footrest.

If possible I'd like to be able to adjust it or take it out and add a new one. I possibly have two Co-Drivers one who is 5'4" and the other is 6'3".

I'm hoping not to have to do any welding after I paint the shell. This is the second last thing on my list.

Pictures of what you've got would be awesome! Even if it won't work for me, it may get the creativity working.

Thanks!

(I'll get pictures up shortly to show what I've got in the area)

Here's what I've got now:

A square tube with six M6 weldnuts in it. The tube allows for a flat surface (other than the crooked floor).




I'm tempted to run anoter one across the floor in front of it, but can't commit.

I've broken the one in the car I co-drive for. It had a bracket welded to the transmision tunel. I didn't like loosing it.

The cage tubes are sort of "in the way" on the outside. I'd prefer not to weld anything to them.

I was thinking about bending some aluminum sheet for the footrest and attaching it to the tube . Then bending another sheet in a "V" running from the base of the footrest to the ECU cover plate (see picture below). Then back to the top of the footrest.



I'll draw a picture tomorrow to better illustrate what I'm planning and to get some feedback.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2009 09:58PM by Daniel Buehler.

I too am almost at this point. I was going to make a frame out of 1/2 square tube. A simple square with 2 bars of the top that go forward, and put a plate on it with some grip tape on top bolt it to the floor.

BTW, my pal the fabricator told me to always round the corners of any plate I weld into the car to relieve the stress point. If something cracks or fails, it will usually do it from a sharp corner.

Okay, here's what I'm thinking...

You have to bear with me and use your imagination

The red lines are to represent the actual footrest. The green lines are to represent another bent sheet of aluminum. I'm hoping that it will add enough support to the footrest.

What are your thoughts. If you think it would work, what thickness aluminum would you recomend? Can I bend aluminum past 90 degrees? Should I make two bends instead of just the one at the base of the "V"?

Thanks.

http://www.sparcousa.com/ptuning_pedals.asp?id=358

^^^

Could that actually work?

I can just see it collapsing to the side. I could make that easily though...

We basically used a sliding rail system. Doesn't weigh much, adjusts very quickly (about 30 seconds to loosen up the allen bolts)

Daniel you should really have your 6'3 co-driver sit in the car. Anyone over 5'10 or so usually needs the legroom in a Subaru. With my old car and old co-driver (who is 6'3) he really didn't have the room he needed. When the car was rebuilt prior to selling it we relocated the ECU to the dash bar and tossed the stock heating system for MORE room. Last guy who co-drove it was only 5'10 or so and his legs were still in a good position read the notes from. Also I believe the sparco footrests and others are meant to collapse in a serious accident to reduce the chance of tib/fib compression fractures on impact. (I have seen this happen even in road cars so I'm not just talking out my ass). Welding and fab work look good though!

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Gone fishing

Oh so nice! That is a great looking cockpit. Very cool idea to use a slider. I have about six stock seats piled in the barn.

Sidetrack - Is that a Mojave heater by any chance? Has it been tested in sub-freezing temperatures?

Interesting to think about the colapsing as a safty feature. I just heard of someone who broke the sparco footrest at a rally under normal conditions.

I think I will move the ECU up under the dash. It gives me more options and the OEM heater is long gone.

I've got the Co-Driver's seat back to ~3" from the harness bar in the main hoop. I'm hoping it's far enough back.

Oh also Daniel we used the stock heater core mounted under the dash with a good quality 7" rad fan behind it. I didn't know how well it would work but at Pines we found out it blows alot more air than the stock set-up. It's controlled by a single switch that gives full defrost only as the cabin on a turbo car gets hot enough as it is. Moving the ECU up also protects it from water damage.

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Gone fishing

Kris, where did you get those sliders?

I had added a bent aluminum plate to our car but Kieran was happy with a piece of angle-iron bolted in instead. It was just to stop his feet sliding and stabilize his lap for note-making. If your co-driver is using it for anything more than that, it's my opinion that he's not strapped in tight enough.

Simon

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Simon Wright
Owner/Driver USUK Racing - Home of the USUK Racing LED Light Bars!

North America Rally Map

simoniac Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I had added a bent aluminum plate to our car but
> Kieran was happy with a piece of angle-iron bolted
> in instead. It was just to stop his feet sliding
> and stabilize his lap for note-making. If your
> co-driver is using it for anything more than that,
> it's my opinion that he's not strapped in tight
> enough.
>
> Simon


Out of curiosity do you use the "dead pedal" or the area to the left of the clutch pedal?

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Umm... I'm a big guy. My legs weigh a lot. I loved the aluminum plate footrest in the car I Co-Drive. My belts can only get tighter for the first few hundred meters of stage - then I tug them again and they're as tight as they get. But I still like my legs having leverage.

Maybe it's just mental, but I also feel I'd be safer in a crash without them flailing around.


Daniel 'currently a well strapped in co-driver' Buehler

Thanks.

We actually used aluminum channel slider material. May be a mitre slider channel. A seat slider may work--very similar in practice. We got the stuff at Hardware Sales (a real hardware store)--I think it may have been made by Shop Fox. We still have some stuff in Red in the original packaging. Will post when I find out--my Dad may know the name of the stuff or the manufacturer.

It is a Mohave heater, which we have setup for defrost only. Stock squirell cage fan wouldn't fit with the dash bar. We tried various 12v fans with the stock core, but none of the solutions worked for us.

The heater did the job at the Big White Rally, which was about 15 degrees F. Never really had a problem with defrosting. It keep the cabin warm, but I'd consider putting additional ducts and point them at my toes. My only real compliant was that my toes were cold, especially after they got wet. I am also planning on putting a water proof treatment on my driving boots, which would help.

I wouldn't say that the heater kept the car toasty, but we weren't cold either. I was fairly happy with the performance, but wasn't blown away. It met expectations.