Yeah, so I thought things through.

Brakes are pricey! So it's ~$400 for parts (give or take $25).

Junkyard lines are looking better now...

So, Nobody has had or seen (or heard of) problems with the OEM location of the lines? I never did like that they hung underneath the frame rails in the front and rear...

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> Well you did some whizzo calculations on that
> Subie-junk, I'm just-a wondering if Fords master
> sizes make some kinda sense. The seem very
> consistent with smaller master for front even
> back in Escort days.

Well c'mon John, you're a smart cookie, did you forget that the Ford specs you posted had a 4 pot rear vs the Subaru's 2 pot.

If you look at the changes in Ford's different setups, it looks like it they finally settled with the same as what I figured for the Suby.

They started with about 60-40 on the small front setup and ended up with 70-30 with the big front.

Grant's setup is pretty good too. Next time instead of using real grease/oil, use some dry lube.

NoCoast Wrote:
> Or you could grab a
> new set of stock stuff from a junkyard car that
> are in good shape.

*SNERK*

Oh wait, you were serious.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> david amor Wrote:
> -------------
> >
> > I'll take that nickel now! actually 2
> nickels
> > since the front pistons are the same size
> > Front pistons 38mm
> > Rear pistons 32mm
> >
>
> You have the wrong ones!!!
> Get the good ones!
>
> Note Group 4 Escort (MkII rwd) used 4 x 1.5"/38mm
> front and 2x 2.0" back with of course a limiter.
>
> For a heavier car, I'd expect to see sumpin just a
> bit bigger---but then again there's a booster
> stock so like whatever...
>
> I've used 240 Volvo rears on a shit-ton of apps
> since its 2 x 38mm/1.5" and works so good with no
> limiter.
>
>
>
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.rallyrace.net/jvab
> CALL +1 206 431-9696
> Remember! Pacific Standard Time
> is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.


But what's this heavier car you're talking about?

---

Gone fishing

david amor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> john vanlandingham Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > david amor Wrote:
> >
> > Note Group 4 Escort (MkII rwd) used 4 x
> 1.5"/38mm
> > front and 2x 2.0" back with of course a
> limiter.
> >
> > For a heavier car, I'd expect to see sumpin
> just a
> > bit bigger--
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > John Vanlandingham
> > Sleezattle, WA, USA
> >
> > Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
> >
> > www.rallyrace.net/jvab
> > CALL +1 206 431-9696
> > Remember! Pacific Standard Time
> > is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.
>
>
> But what's this heavier car you're talking about?

Oh I dunno, sumpin like maybe a 1230kg Sierra or a 1350kg Sub-a-rat....

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Bet ya a nickel the car I'm building will be below 2500lbs

---

Gone fishing

david amor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bet ya a nickel the car I'm building will be below
> 2500lbs
>
> "this is certainly not a game for flyweights or
> ping-pong players-all arguments to the contrary"
> -C.B.
Betcha my 2720lb Cossie 4x4 cost-ed-ed less!

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Daniel Buehler Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yeah, so I thought things through.
>
> Brakes are pricey! So it's ~$400 for parts (give
> or take $25).
>
> Junkyard lines are looking better now...
>
> So, Nobody has had or seen (or heard of) problems
> with the OEM location of the lines? I never did
> like that they hung underneath the frame rails in
> the front and rear...
>
>

^^^

Post (and attachment) was a joke BTW... Interweb overkill sarcasm fail!

I still want to try to run new lines. I was looking at what I've got and I think I can madify them and add new lines to make a pretty simple system. Hear me out...

Now I think I understand this right: Can I take a regular OEM 3/16th line (with the OEM fitting on both ends) and cut one end off, then reflare the line with a 37 dergree flare and an AN 'B Nut' and sleeve?

If I can, That would allow me to take the OEM lines I've got and alter the one that runs across the firewall. Add an AN fitting to it, run a bulkhead fitting above the trasmission tunnel, connect a NAPA line with one end hacked off and converted to AN that runs to a Prop. Valve. From there, run another NAPA line to a Metric T fitting and connect the two OEM lines that would have run down the rocker. That would leave OEM lines in the engine bay and in the rear, just altering the ones in the cabin.

I like the adjustable prop. valve. We have one in the car I Co-Drive and it's been valuable.

So... Do I understand correctly? Can I use NAPA or OEM line with metric fittings on one end and AN on the other?

Thanks for your answers and patience...

Dont use the Steel line on a 37 degree AN flare, use Stainless regular steel needs to be double flared for brake lines. If your just going to reuse a bunch of oem line get ur self a cheap double 45 degree flare tool. On the subaru the inverted double flare stuff is 45 degrees you can use the OEM tube nuts with the 3/16th line NP.

I did just what you are thinking, but I bought bulk 3/16 line. The end that connects to the AN bulkhead, I put the nut and sleeve on, then double flared to 45 degrees. No leaks at all. My system is: stock master, stock front lines and T, then I ran the rear into the cabin, to a prop valve, to the hyd. hand brake, to AN fitting at rear, from AN fitting at rear to the stock external T for the rears. So the only external lines I had to make was the short one from the master to the front bulkhead, and the short rear one from the rear AN bulkhead to the rear T. Simple, and works great. I ran my lines down the tunnel, on the drivers side.

> Next time use some dry lube.
>
>

that's what she said.