BMW Compact Build

Looks like fun!

What's the tie rod issue? Too long or too short? I know Sean was able to come up with a mixing of parts to get cheaper replacements for Merkur stuff.

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NoCoast
Looks like fun!

What's the tie rod issue? Too long or too short? I know Sean was able to come up with a mixing of parts to get cheaper replacements for Merkur stuff.

Using E46 front control arms which are 40mm wider per side.
Using E36 outer tie-rods for correct strut/tire clearance.

Inner tie-rods:
E36 ones are too short, only ~1/4" threaded into the outer tie-rods at ~0 toe.
E90 ones are too long, they bottom out inside the outer tie-rods. I have cut ~1/2" off them so they don't bottom out, but now we've run out of threads where the jam nut sits and still have toe out. To be able to twist them in further we need a dye to cut threads in another 1/2" or so on each one so I can get into the reasonable toe adjustment range.

Dave



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2011 03:00PM by DaveK.

I took my tie rods into my local carquest, they have a book that lists them by rack end type, thread type, and length. I bet you could find a suitable replacement that works.

What gains did you get from using the E46 arms? are those the Alloy ones? or was it t correct camber?

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phlat65
What gains did you get from using the E46 arms? are those the Alloy ones? or was it t correct camber?

Main reason was to correct camber, but I also needed to replace the orig. 240,000 mile arms & bushings, so I figured it was a reasonable time to upgrade - all the parts are on par with E36 costs. Other than losing a place to mount my front sway bar and the tie rod issue, it was all direct bolt-in.

May have to try doing something like that. Any chance of knowing a place online that lists all the dimension details?

Dave

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DaveK
Any chance of knowing a place online that lists all the dimension details?

Probably have better luck with siamese twin porn...

HA!!
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal_Inner_Tie_Rods.asp

Slowly making more progress and addressing issues encountered during shakedown.

-Converted from wheel bolts to studs - 75mm ones up front, 90mm ones out back
-Picked up spacers for the rear wheels to move them further from the springs (would rub under compression).
-Wiper & Blinker stalks now installed and functioning correctly.
-Stared at doors and formulated ideas for door panels.
-Sent out my fire bottles and they just came back from being refilled/tagged.

Still need to:
-address tie rod issue (couldn't find anything in the catalog)
-find out what's causing the check engine light
-glue down the airbag cover
-make door panels
-install fire bottles
-navvie footrest
-rally odometer
-figure out OE speedometer
-gusset plates on A-pillar support bar where it connects to upper door X
-find the leaks (car got flooded when I was power washing the mud off of it)
-drive it more

Dave

Dave, what's wrong with the normal Bavarian Maggot Wagon door panels?

Also what have we decided on spring length in the back?
The shocks coming you should test and decide if we want to send your current ones out to revalve them to the spec on the loaners...


AND! Just about to order a nice Brantz for a local boy, you wanna get a Brantz International 2S at the same time???
---very reliable, and extremely easy to set and change for different tire diameter and the 2S has a speed readout....

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john vanlandingham
Dave, what's wrong with the normal Bavarian Maggot Wagon door panels?

They're missing. Actually, I sold them for $75 in my quest to have a $500 bmw to start with...

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john vanlandingham
Also what have we decided on spring length in the back?
The shocks coming you should test and decide if we want to send your current ones out to revalve them to the spec on the loaners...

I've solved the brake line interference issue, so I think keeping the 14" springs is probably the best solution. Not sure yet if we'll need a higher rate spring though. Are they really going to be apples to apples if the shock lengths are different? Might just have to hang onto those loaners

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john vanlandingham
AND! Just about to order a nice Brantz for a local boy, you wanna get a Brantz International 2S at the same time???
---very reliable, and extremely easy to set and change for different tire diameter and the 2S has a speed readout....

I bought a Brantz Lazer 3 back in 2009 when I was getting ready to run RFKaC, but returned it after the guys who were supposed to be making our restrictor wouldn't call me back. Did I mention I hate restrictors?!? Got a couple pairs of some nice driving gloves instead.

Is it worth considering the 3 again since it has a built in clock so we can get all the info from one place? IDK, I'm asking...new at this rally thing. Shoot me an email with pricing info. Also not sure on what type of sensor adapter I need.

Dave

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DaveK

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john vanlandingham
Dave, what's wrong with the normal Bavarian Maggot Wagon door panels?

They're missing. Actually, I sold them for $75 in my quest to have a $500 bmw to start with...

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john vanlandingham
Also what have we decided on spring length in the back?
The shocks coming you should test and decide if we want to send your current ones out to revalve them to the spec on the loaners...

I've solved the brake line interference issue, so I think keeping the 14" springs is probably the best solution. Not sure yet if we'll need a higher rate spring though. Are they really going to be apples to apples if the shock lengths are different? Might just have to hang onto those loaners

Quote
john vanlandingham
AND! Just about to order a nice Brantz for a local boy, you wanna get a Brantz International 2S at the same time???
---very reliable, and extremely easy to set and change for different tire diameter and the 2S has a speed readout....

I bought a Brantz Lazer 3 back in 2009 when I was getting ready to run RFKaC, but returned it after the guys who were supposed to be making our restrictor wouldn't call me back. Did I mention I hate restrictors?!? Got a couple pairs of some nice driving gloves instead.

Is it worth considering the 3 again since it has a built in clock so we can get all the info from one place? IDK, I'm asking...new at this rally thing. Shoot me an email with pricing info. Also not sure on what type of sensor adapter I need.



The loaner shocks are loaner, they really want a rebuild---low gas pressure now
Dave

Dave the Lazer3 is a top level TSD type thing that does everything including washing your ring around the collar---it's way in excess of what we need in North America for stage rally.

There was one of those thangs you have in Lynwood Pull-a-part, maybe I can ask somebody 2 miles away to check.

I've always been a fan of the cheapest one that will do intervals. That's really all you need. Speed can be nice so codriver can monitor on transits, but really, all you need is a simple interval in my opinion.

I like using the GPS odo on my fancy phone for transits or just using the trip meter on the dash. Saves me money to spend elsewhere.

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john vanlandingham
Dave the Lazer3 is a top level TSD type thing that does everything including washing your ring around the collar---it's way in excess of what we need in North America for stage rally.

There was one of those thangs you have in Lynwood Pull-a-part, maybe I can ask somebody 2 miles away to check.

Thanks everyone for the insight on the rally computers. Sounds like the 2s is a good way to go.

I have plastic sheet leftover from doing the Evo door panels - no need for any BMW oem stuff.

Dave

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john vanlandingham
Dave the Lazer3 is a top level TSD type thing that does everything including washing your ring around the collar---it's way in excess of what we need in North America for stage rally.

Um... no. The Lazer 3 is not a 'top level TSD computer' by any stretch. You'd still be 'calculator' elegible with a Lazer 3 and it doesn't give you any of the functionality you need to be competitive in Unlimited class.

It is a mid-level stage odo at best but it does include a clock and does some time related number crunching. It keeps some good data from the stage - Max Speed, Average Speed, etc. that can be valuable to assessing performance. It also has the ability to be used as a fuel guage if you have a sender you can tap into.

In the end it sort of boils down to what you want out of your odo. The reality is on events with Jemba and a half-way competent co-driver the odo is generally not much use on stage. If you don't know the area it can be a help on the transits. In terms of 'what we need in North America for stage rally,' you can really get away with a stock odometer 95% of the time.

That said, rally odos can be good tools. Having a clock in the odo is a real benifit, particularly when you can freeze the display when you cross the finish and compare times to what you get at the end. Yes, you can do that in other ways without a clock in your odo... but I'm just saying the features are nice.

There is nothing wrong with a Lazer3 - of the odos in that price range they are probably the best buy. I've owned and rallied with the Lazer 3, a Teratrip 303+ and a Coralba CGiant and a Coralba CRally. The CGiant is, by far, the best odo I've owned but at several times the price of a Brantz... they can be hard to justify.

Take a look at the Monit units as well - they are way cool...

http://www.monitrally.com/

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Brgrds
Brian