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bean
I'd suggest comparing the distance the slave extends on a stock car clutch fully depressed, then use that same distance on your car's slave, and set the stopper there.

I beleive its all internal and my car was an automatic to start so I didn't have all that clutch hardware to start with. That's what led me down the slippery slope to justifying floor mounted pedals. LOL

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NoCoast
You got a wicked pissa pedal set that's adjustable. I'd say make sure it engages and disengages and call it decked.

Would that be as simple as depressing the clutch with the car on and sticking it in gear with the wheels up in the air. Keep making adjustments until I see clutch drag happening (i.e. wheels start to rotate slowly)?

Reason I'm very interested in this is that with the floor mounted pedals, they're about an inch closer than I'd like. If I have to adjust out the stopper rod on the clutch pedal, I'd rather just adjust the pedal backwards at rest instead, then move the brake & throttle to be even.

Adjustability is nice...but what a PITA to setup the first time.

Dave

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DaveK

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NoCoast
You got a wicked pissa pedal set that's adjustable. I'd say make sure it engages and disengages and call it decked.

Would that be as simple as depressing the clutch with the car on and sticking it in gear with the wheels up in the air. Keep making adjustments until I see clutch drag happening (i.e. wheels start to rotate slowly)?

Dave

I think you'd need to account for clutch wear as well as if you set it too sensitive you could prevent it from fully disengaging once it's worn in a bit. Ideally you'd want it to disengage nicely right till it was worn out.

Sounds silly - but the only other way I can think of if you can't see anything, would be to measure the fluid pumped out when a stock clutch is depressed, then set it up so the same volume comes out on your set up.

Or just adjust it like you mentioned, but factor in some extra for wear and call it done.

My $0.02 cdn

Rabin

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DaveK

Adjustability is nice...but what a PITA to setup the first time.

Dave

Yep.

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DaveK

Just had another question pop into my head - most clutch systems have a stopper for the pedal. On a car with floor mounted pedals, how you you determine where to set the clutch stop?

Dave

RTFM. Says how to do it on Tilton's website.

But i'll save you the trouble...

http://www.tiltonracing.com/pdfs/23.pdf

"The proper position of the clutch is mostly a matter of driver preference. Adjust the position accordingly and tighten the pushrod jam nut. Most racing cluthes and release bearings require the use of a positive stop on a clutch pedal to prevent damage from overstroking. This point is usually 1/4" to 3/8" past the point of clean disengagement measured at the foot."

So in laymans term, jack the car up. Push in the clutch until the wheels stop spinning, go 1/4" to 3/8" past that and set your clutch stop there. You should have a clutch stop on the pedal assembly, if not there's a threaded area you put a bolt through on the clutch pedal.

He said "overstroking", hee hee!

Regarding fluids, somewhere around 1994/95/96 seems like when GM started using stuff like Trac2 and Synchromesh fliuds in gear boxes, transfer cases and diffs. I'd guess that there was an advancement or discovery in fluids around then rather than actual gear box changes.

Nismo used to advise a mix of 90w and ATF in gear boxes for racing, unheard of nowadays.

Redline super duper is shit. stick to standard gear lube--- it's worked for about a hundred years! walmart's go it.

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heymagic
Nismo used to advise a mix of 90w and ATF in gear boxes for racing, unheard of nowadays.

i love the trick for a noisey motor, drain a quart of oil and add a quart of ATF. those detergents in the ATF break down the oil residue..... motor runs quiet after half an hour of ilde with just a bit of ATF... done it on many vehicles.

dave: "ok, let the jack down. AAAAHHHH, AAAAAAH, NO, NO, RAISE IT BACK UP, NO, NO, THAT'S WORSE! AHHHH!!!" Dude, I hope your thumb feels alright today. It didn't seem as bad as the spring compressor incident on the evo...

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AaronJMcConnell
dave: "ok, let the jack down. AAAAHHHH, AAAAAAH, NO, NO, RAISE IT BACK UP, NO, NO, THAT'S WORSE! AHHHH!!!" Dude, I hope your thumb feels alright today. It didn't seem as bad as the spring compressor incident on the evo...

Mmm, this reminds me of high school machine shop, "ouch ouch ouch! Turn it off! turn it of! turn it off!"

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alkun

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AaronJMcConnell
dave: "ok, let the jack down. AAAAHHHH, AAAAAAH, NO, NO, RAISE IT BACK UP, NO, NO, THAT'S WORSE! AHHHH!!!" Dude, I hope your thumb feels alright today. It didn't seem as bad as the spring compressor incident on the evo...

Mmm, this reminds me of high school machine shop, "ouch ouch ouch! Turn it off! turn it of! turn it off!"

LOL that reminds me of my machining class at Lake Wash tech college. Someone tried to power tap with a lathe and a hand tap, spun it out of their hand, and threw it across the room....

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alkun
Mmm, this reminds me of high school machine shop, "ouch ouch ouch! Turn it off! turn it of! turn it off!"

This is exactly why I won't let Aaron use power tools around me.

Made some good progress the last few days:

-picked up 328 gearbox and had TSB updates done
-re-attached throttle cable (now with more locktite)
-new stiffer bushings for diff (now big washers holding them in)
-swapped to backup 4.30 diff (bearings shot in 4.56 one?)
-drained Redline MTL & replaced with High Mileage ATF
-new banjo fittings on the brake lines to provide extra clearance between brake lines and shock collars
-adjusted ride height to be ~15" from wheel center to fender lip front & rear
-moved clutch 1" closer to firewall and set clutch pedal stop
-installed Porterfield R4 pads all around
-donuts in parking lot

Dave

I'm in my photography class at school and have ran out of things to fix on my shots. So I adjusted the drift pic a lil' bit.

Hey sorry about those bushings send me an email Ill send you new harder ones the same size.
william@tssfab.us

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SteelSolutions
Hey sorry about those bushings send me an email Ill send you new harder ones the same size.
william@tssfab.us

New bushings arrived from JVL last Thurs/Friday and made it into the car already. Appears that the new harder bushings and/or the extra washers used to hold them in have done the trick!

Buddy of mine grabbed the GoPro's at the end of the day and whipped this up for us:





Video isn't in order timewise - by the time you see any snow on the ground the surface had turned to snot. Tires were packed in with mud and looked like 10" wide racing slicks...lots of fun, but not fast by any means.

Will try to get a few pics up tonight of the mess.

Dave