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tmachnik
Tom Machnik
Ultra Moderator
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Join Date: 01/31/2008
Age: Midlife Crisis
Posts: 78

Rally Car:
1985 VW GTI


Re: Mk2 Golf: front subframe bolt cross-threaded
April 23, 2010 09:31PM
kaiser sosa Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Dude, you don't have to cut the floor. Peel up the
> sound deadening crap if it's still on there and
> you'll see a circular plug, pry that out. Drill up
> from the bottom with a 12mm bit, go get the
> strongest 12mm bolt you can find just long enough
> to go all the way up without protruding through
> the floor line where you pulled the plug out get
> two nuts and a couple large washers wrench it down
> tight and jam-nut it from the top then cut a
> circular piece of sheet metal 1" larger than the
> plug hole and screw it back down to cover
> everything up.
> That's how I did mine.
> I can get you pics if you need.
>

Hmm, kinda sounds like you're just bolting to a convenient piece of sheetmetal there. No good, especially for a rally car. The captive nut has at least a bit of reinforcement. The best way to go is a bobbin, the second best is to replace the captive nut, the third best is the bently way, after that you could randomly drill holes and bolt sheetmetal to sheetmetal, but it won't last long on stage.




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kaiser sosa
Josh vonAhlefeld
Senior Moderator
Location: Portland, OR
Join Date: 02/04/2010
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 38

Rally Car:
1985 VW Golf GTi


Re: Mk2 Golf: front subframe bolt cross-threaded
April 23, 2010 10:58PM
tmachnik Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hmm, kinda sounds like you're just bolting to a
> convenient piece of sheetmetal there. No good,
> especially for a rally car. The captive nut has
> at least a bit of reinforcement. The best way to
> go is a bobbin, the second best is to replace the
> captive nut, the third best is the bently way,
> after that you could randomly drill holes and bolt
> sheetmetal to sheetmetal, but it won't last long
> on stage.
>
>

Nope, when you pull the plug you will see a 1" or so wide by about 3" or so long insert or "captive nut" on top of the sheet metal floorpan with a flange of sorts at the bottom, that is what the stock bolt actually threads into. My bolts pass through that about 1-1.5" further up than the stock bolt did and get a washer and nut/jam-nut ON TOP of the existing piece.
No random hole drilling, using the stock location just a longer and stronger bolt with jam nuts and thick washers.






easy to be hard, hard to be smart
Jv
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