adding the volvo rear brakes to toyota axle

in some brain storming the other day of trying to come up with a different rear end to swap under a new project i have, i remember JVL and some others going with swapping the toyota 4x4 rear axle under the volvos for an upgrade for the rear axle.

And really a 4x4 axle with a set of volvo rear brakes would be just fine for what i need.

But I'm curious if anyone, like JVL, made the brackets to mount the volvo stuff to the toyota axle.

or was it just all one off stuff.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

mellow65 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> in some brain storming the other day of trying to
> come up with a different rear end to swap under a
> new project i have, i remember JVL and some others
> going with swapping the toyota 4x4 rear axle under
> the volvos for an upgrade for the rear axle.
>
> And really a 4x4 axle with a set of volvo rear
> brakes would be just fine for what i need.
>
> But I'm curious if anyone, like JVL, made the
> brackets to mount the volvo stuff to the toyota
> axle.
>
> or was it just all one off stuff.
>
> "Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a
> vague craving for something salty"

Matt, nothing I do is ever one off if I can help it.

When the idea was formed---mainly as a result of us seing the row of 7 twisted off half shafts in John Lane's display case, I though I was selling a LOT of my custom 160mm rods and CP forged pistons (like 224 pcs, or 56 motors worth, at last count) and lots of the guys were running their motors at over 350 bhp so we wanted something way stronger but sensible rather that insane overkill.
In fact the exact way it went was Kevin hawkinson was looking at the Toyota Supra LSD and halfshafts that I'm doing kits to install in the Xratties, and got all whiny and said "I want something this bitchin', its gnarly!"
So I said, fine lets grab a 4 Runner axle and plug it in, its the same stuff inside.

So I spoke with my friend William of "Steel Solutions" about making us a run of the ears to weld on to connect the LOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooOOOOOOONG upper nad lower links (Retail $14.50 for 28" and with the radius for BOTH Dana 30 stock axle and Toyota 8". He also burned us out lower shock mounts for both axles---that is an integral part of the plan--moving the shocks to the backside of the axle tube so we can get longer travel shocks on easier, and buy common 2 1/2" coilover springs and get some squat in the car and have travel left over.

8" is a good step up from Dana's nominal 7.2" ring gear and the width of what we got the next day was like +1" per side or 2" more length flange to flange which is great on a 240 since they're narrower by 2" in back....

So we got an axle, Ian Topping out in Michigan got one for his 240 and sent us the half shafts and so we did 4 at once..
The pick up 6 bolt flange needed to be reduced and thinned a bit so while i was doing that, Kevin was using a nice "dual shield" gas and flux MiG to plug weld the stud holes. pretty easy and quick.

Next was over to the mill where we shoved the axles thru a dividing head that we could pass the axles thru and banged in the 5 on 4.25 bolt circle while i was carving some centering rings.
We welded those in the center--and then kissed them down to Volvo dimension.
So a stock disc passes over just like stock...

Kevin's axle is sitting since he was finishing his "Injur-near" degree and getting all married--and stuff, Ian has his in and it's working pretty good at last report.

Right now i have another axle we're starting on as soon as Kevin has a moment for a 240 I'm putting together for James from fawkin Nebraska, and Brian Cary from Des Moines just ran out last week and pulled a Supra IRS diff with LSD and a 4,3 ratio for the OUTRAGEOUS price of around 46 buck with tax, way up from the 29.75 I paid.

So as soon as Brian gets an axle we're doing the half shaft mods to it and Jampes'

This is a typical co-operative deal and like most things I make VERY inexpensive and STRONG..

Toyota 8" ring gears can be had for as little as 10 bucks second hand and as little as $125 NEW, so for what most people might pay for a loose diff you can upgrade the axle, diff, ratio, suspension and links....

Not too bad.

Go get a 4 runner axle cause they came with like 4.56 of something silly and get the half shafts to me so we can do more!!!!

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

one more thing i forgot to ask. and now that kevins picture is no longer up on his thread about the axles. what did you guys do with the face of the axle?

there is that monster "thing" that comes out and fits in the center of the drum. did you guys just shave it down flat or did you guys machine it down to the diameter of the center of the rotor, so you can have it hub centric, or does that really even matter.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

What about possibly making brackets for guys who may want a dedicated circuit hydraulic hand brake with an extra ATE Volvo caliper on the axle.. Could we do something like that? Two two piston calipers on the Yota axle?

---

Stroker 2.5 redblock, JE forged blower pistons 8.2:1, Eagle H beams with DSM big end, Avalanche underdrive pulley, 46/40mm valve 530 with Enem C2 turbo cam, Isky db springs, SDS efi w/DIS/wasted spark, PCS digital touch screen dash/logger, 60lb Deka IV's, ATP 60-1 @ 22psi, Tial bov, Walbro 255, Avalanche T-5 adapter, 02 Tremec 5sp, 6puck, 3" driveshaft, modded G80, Painless chassis harness. Corbeau seats.. 300+whp Driven daily..

mellow65 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> one more thing i forgot to ask. and now that
> kevins picture is no longer up on his thread about
> the axles. what did you guys do with the face of
> the axle?
>
> there is that monster "thing" that comes out and
> fits in the center of the drum. did you guys just
> shave it down flat or did you guys machine it down
> to the diameter of the center of the rotor, so you
> can have it hub centric, or does that really even
> matter.
>
> "Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a
> vague craving for something salty"


Since its kinda early, and this last week they have me back on the mo' powaful medication ---cause I'm in BIG FAWKIN PAIN from doing too much---uuuhhm
lemme ask you....



huh?

We made a "centering ring for the wheel" by welding a ring in the ID of the ring, then turning the OD to Volvo dimension..
On the axle face itself I did a step to locate a Volvo disc..


Now come clean and tell me whatcher doing 'steada being all coy.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

TerribleOne Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What about possibly making brackets for guys who
> may want a dedicated circuit hydraulic hand brake
> with an extra ATE Volvo caliper on the axle..
> Could we do something like that? Two two piston
> calipers on the Yota axle?

Sheet Cous youse wanna extra brackets for a dedicated handbrake circuit.
Sheeet!

Tell you what mang, you do like I tells ya on the back and if'n youse aiont thrilled THEN we can talk about a dedicated bracket/circuit..


Cause I don't know what problems is getting solved here.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> Since its kinda early, and this last week they
> have me back on the mo' powaful medication
> ---cause I'm in BIG FAWKIN PAIN from doing too
> much---uuuhhm
> lemme ask you....
>
>
>
> huh?
>
> We made a "centering ring for the wheel" by
> welding a ring in the ID of the ring, then turning
> the OD to Volvo dimension..
> On the axle face itself I did a step to locate a
> Volvo disc..
>
>
> Now come clean and tell me whatcher doing 'steada
> being all coy.
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.rallyrace.net/jvab
> CALL +1 206 431-9696
> Remember! Pacific Standard Time
> is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.


here's a pic for the people that are still squinting because it's early.




that part is WAY to big to fit in a rotor. and so i was wondering how you dealt with that. shaved it off and just let the rotors hang on the studs. or milled it to where the rotor center fit over it.

and no ones being coy here. just replacing a so so axle with an awesome axle, with after market support. but what it's going in, 1st gen rx7.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/29/2010 11:47AM by mellow65.

mellow65 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> john vanlandingham Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> > Since its kinda early, and this last week
> they
> > have me back on the mo' powaful medication
> > ---cause I'm in BIG FAWKIN PAIN from doing
> too
> > much---uuuhhm
> > lemme ask you....
> >
> >
> >
> > huh?
> >
> > We made a "centering ring for the wheel" by
> > welding a ring in the ID of the ring, then
> turning
> > the OD to Volvo dimension..
> > On the axle face itself I did a step to
> locate a
> > Volvo disc..
> >
> >
> > Now come clean and tell me whatcher doing
> 'steada
> > being all coy.
> >

>
> here's a pic for the people that are still
> squinting because it's early.
>
>
>
>
> that part is WAY to big to fit in a rotor. and so
> i was wondering how you dealt with that. shaved
> it off and just let the rotors hang on the studs.
> or milled it to where the rotor center fit over
> it.
>

I made it INTO a Volvo rotor ready flange.
Thinned the backside til it was flat so i wouldn't have to do a counterbore for the heads of the studs.


> and no ones being coy here. just replacing a so
> so axle with an awesome axle, with after market
> support. but what it's going in, 1st gen rx7.

Oh, OK.
How long-a linkies you stinking of?
Cause that's a big part of 1st Gen's problems.

NEED LONG LINKS!
>
>
>
> "Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a
> vague craving for something salty"
>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at May 29, 2010 by
> mellow65.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john vanlandingham Wrote:

> > and no ones being coy here. just replacing a
> so
> > so axle with an awesome axle, with after
> market
> > support. but what it's going in, 1st gen
> rx7.
>
> Oh, OK.
> How long-a linkies you stinking of?
> Cause that's a big part of 1st Gen's problems.
>
> NEED LONG LINKS!
> >
> >
> >
> > "Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look
> like a
> > vague craving for something salty"
> >
> >
> >
> > Edited 1 times. Last edit at May 29, 2010 by
> > mellow65.
>
>
>
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.rallyrace.net/jvab
> CALL +1 206 431-9696
> Remember! Pacific Standard Time
> is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.


been kicking ideas around on links. even thought just as simple as leaving it with the stock stuff. i just don't know if i have the brain power to figure out a 4 link. i have tried to figure it out several times before, but couldn't really ever find good stuff to read.

the bottom links aren't to bad, don't remember how long they are, but still way longer then those top ones. i swear those things are like 3 in long.

if you got some pointers on how the hell to set one up send it my way. if you think i could reuse the bottoms and just greatly improve the tops, i'm cool with that. but then do you ditch the watts linkage in favor of just a pan hard bar. decisions, decisions, decisions.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

mellow65 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> john vanlandingham Wrote:
>

> > How long-a linkies you stinking of?
> > Cause that's a big part of 1st Gen's
> problems.
> >
> > NEED LONG LINKS!
> > >

>
>
> been kicking ideas around on links. even thought
> just as simple as leaving it with the stock stuff.
> i just don't know if i have the brain power to
> figure out a 4 link. i have tried to figure it
> out several times before, but couldn't really ever
> find good stuff to read.
>
> the bottom links aren't to bad, don't remember how
> long they are, but still way longer then those top
> ones. i swear those things are like 3 in long.

Come on they're at least 3.5"
>
> if you got some pointers on how the hell to set
> one up send it my way. if you think i could reuse
> the bottoms and just greatly improve the tops, i'm
> cool with that. but then do you ditch the watts
> linkage in favor of just a pan hard bar.
> decisions, decisions, decisions.
>

Bottom length doesn't look too bad, but we have no idea on strength, or cost.
That's the fun thing with these circle track links, we know the material and even 28" ones like for the Volvos retail for $14.50.
At that price i say WTF why not and get a couple of spares.
(Full disclosure: I am a Coleman dealer---so buy 'em from me!)

Packaging on 1st gen is a bit tight but I recall Millens from Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back---some advantages of being older than dirt!!---- And his FRONT TOP LINK pick up was simplfied ie a mount more than a skinny ass box like Escort and Toiletta and Volvo .
I do recall the upper link went very nearly to the back of the seat.
Right thru the wheel arch, and used a shift boot to keep the muck out---pretty smart boy Roddy was.


Nothing wrong with WATTS if it has enough strength and travel.

That's the main thing is we want to be able to bash into stuff (especially when we fuck up and slide wide and hit a bank AND biig rocks ) without a simple mistake becoming a big fat DNF---not with the entry fees costing what they do---we want to finish with the wheels pointing the way they started....

Hey can you post some interior shots of just behind the seats and inner fender well?

This is the perfect time to do the shock towers nicer..

Whaddya you doing on rear suspenders? (There are GOOD and inexpensive options if money is really tight)

See that phone number down there?
>
>
>
>
>
> "Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a
> vague craving for something salty"

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

lets see if this works because im out in the garage with my phone.

bottom links are about 20" top ones are, good lord 10". they are kicked out because the spring taking some real estate right behind the mount on the car.

you could ditch the spring probably for what your talking about cheap stuff with like a coil over coming off the back.

heres some pics. and ill give you a call one of these days. its a pre thought the whole rear end thing. right now im making it so the front end doesnt fall apart again.

why mazda thought it was a good idea to make the noses of these things out of tissue paper is beyond me. but nothing a little bit of time and plating cant fix.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

Yeah move the spring to the shock, and extend that tower up for some of these nice fat 50mm Bilsteins and you'll be set on the back.
20" sounds ok, maybe a bit longer if it isn't too much work.
That upper though, Hmmmmmmm.


You willing to move the rear stays to the side of the extended towers?
The idea then is the loads coming into the towers are more dispersed or 'resolved' into the cage structure, and not stressing the sheetmetal---since the loads and forces have somewhere to go.
Be way better in the long run and you could use the tubes you have now since it would be shorter to the towaer sides than the truck floor, so no cost just a few minutes cutting and sanding and re-weld...Easy!


Did you say you were grafting in Second gen front end (with the nice rack and arms and struts with EARS) into that??

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

50mm bilsteins? Are you no longer making 40s?

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 50mm bilsteins? Are you no longer making 40s?
>
> Feisty Peacock?
>
>

The rears in the "B-46" family are 50mm---like your rears.
Still doing 40mm and 41mm fronts. 41mm is Ford Sierra/Escort Cosworth size.

And soon more 50mm fronts for those that just have to have the biggest.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Oh, I thought the rears like mine were also 40, and then the 50 rears were the strut style.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.