Recommended Alignment Settings for a FWD Car

Thanks Josh!

Bumping this. Just dropped off my neon for some alignment work. I requested 0 camber all around and about 1/16-1/8th toe in for the front and 0 toe in the rear. The prior owner of my car like front toe out and Chris greenhouse suggested front toe out, but I just didn't like the squirrely nature on the fast sections. I value the advice here for newbies of keeping it close to neutral and making very slow changes.

I'd say it all depends on the age of the bushings, old sloppy bushings, toe out,
new poly/delrin bushings, 0" toe.

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SteveL
This is the point in the killing spree when you really should turn the gun on yourself

I think a bit of negative camber would be good. Rally cars are floppy, so you may end up with 1-2 degres positive while cornering.

yep .5 degree of camber and 0 toe has been good for me, we destroy the corners of the tires a bit less that way.....reading tires helps alot when setting up camber and toe.

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-Tom
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Tom B
yep .5 degree of camber and 0 toe has been good for me, we destroy the corners of the tires a bit less that way.....reading tires helps alot when setting up camber and toe.

Second Tom's comments.

The ol saw about lots of camber originated back in the day of flexy sidewalls.. Since the arrival of real Michelin rally tires back in maybe 1990 or so, not needed now. so maybe 1/2 degree....
Personally I like a smidge toe IN so that with normal bush compliance---it always pushes BACK, the effective to goes to about zero....and I have a LOT stiffer bushes than all you boys with struts.

Rear zero or in a smidge for same reason as front. car goes forward, force goes rear on arms and toes goes a smidge out, so you want zero, start IN a red c**t hair

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

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john vanlandingham
Personally I like a smidge toe IN so that with normal bush compliance---it always pushes BACK, the effective to goes to about zero....and I have a LOT stiffer bushes than all you boys with struts.

Rear zero or in a smidge for same reason as front. car goes forward, force goes rear on arms and toes goes a smidge out, so you want zero, start IN a red c**t hair

John, on a FWD car the fronts wheels/control arms are pulling forward under power and push back under braking. A bit of toe in prevents it from going toe out under braking for stability.

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Cosworth

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john vanlandingham
Personally I like a smidge toe IN so that with normal bush compliance---it always pushes BACK, the effective to goes to about zero....and I have a LOT stiffer bushes than all you boys with struts.

Rear zero or in a smidge for same reason as front. car goes forward, force goes rear on arms and toes goes a smidge out, so you want zero, start IN a red c**t hair

John, on a FWD car the fronts wheels/control arms are pulling forward under power and push back under braking. A bit of toe in prevents it from going toe out under braking for stability.

Paul, depends on where the compliance is relative to the tie-rod.

On a VW, the rear bushing on the control arm is BEHIND the tie-rod which is angled slightly forward at straight-ahead steering...And attaches to the rear of the hub/upright. With this setup, you get toe-IN during braking (wheels move rearward in the wheel-well but tie-rods remain the same length) and toe-out under acceleration.

See picture below--Top of pic is front of car. Rear bushing is the one that deflects, front might as well be solid....

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