Anyone know a good source for a sandwich plate for oil cooler on the Ford 2.3T? Prefer with AN-10 fittings and integral thermostat. What'd Skye use?

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Grant Hughes

RX7 cooler w/ new fittings welded on if I'm not mistaken

PAddy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> RX7 cooler w/ new fittings welded on if I'm not
> mistaken
Yep, RX7 like it was made for it. -10 welded on, a block off plate on the block and the remote filter head near where the squity squirt resevoir normally sits.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I'm more thinking of the block off or sandwich plate that goes on the block. Just buy a remote oil filter kit or something? Did you eliminate the water jacket cooler on Skye's car?

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Grant Hughes

Grant, just hang on and I'll get you the "Perma-coo" Pn for the cover with two outlets for the block (you clean off everything) and the filterhead with two inlets and two outlets.

I do it just like the drawing only rather than returning to a drilled lug in the oil gallery, we return to the block off thing No7 in the drawing.
We feed the turbo via a -6 hose just-a-lika the drawing and site the idiot light and oil pressure sender again as per the drawing, it really works nicely.
I did my car and "Seattle Scott's" street car this way.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

One could also use a Volvo sandwitch plate (wouldn't do much for making the oil filter remote though), but I "guess" you would need to disable the T-stat in it as the RX-7 cooler already has one. That picture of John's is great, BTW. Picture is worth a thousand words.

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Scott Manley
Spokane, WA
86' XR4Ti
37

PAddy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> RX7 cooler w/ new fittings welded on if I'm not
> mistaken

You can also tap the cooler for larger fittings, with out welding. The bungs are decently thick enough to accomodate larger holes. There are 3 or 4 of those on XR's over here. Although we've opted for barb fittings and industrial hose clamps. It works and is less expensive (way less) for repairs. Not saying I recommend it, but it works.

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Scott Manley
Spokane, WA
86' XR4Ti
37

Sweet. That part number would be awesome.

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Grant Hughes

As John mentioned, I had the RX-7 setup on my street car and it worked fine. The only thing I noticed was the oil pressure light would flicker on when the the thermostat opened up. I was never more than a flicker and I didn't notice any other problems. I still had the stock oil pump/pickup in the street car so I'm guessing with the higher volume unit John has us putting into the rally cars will take care it.

Seattle Scott

scott Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> As John mentioned, I had the RX-7 setup on my
> street car and it worked fine. The only thing I
> noticed was the oil pressure light would flicker
> on when the the thermostat opened up. I was never
> more than a flicker and I didn't notice any other
> problems. I still had the stock oil pump/pickup in
> the street car so I'm guessing with the higher
> volume unit John has us putting into the rally
> cars will take care it.
>
> Seattle Scott
BTW, the stock XR oil pump is said to be only running at about 30% total at full load/rpm. Unless is going out, you probably won't max it out anytime soon. It's nearly the same pump capacity as used in the 460 cid V8. But there are other pumps. There are also some cheap replacement pumps that don't work so well. I've seen a few in cars; the plate over the pump is alu. and wears.

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Scott Manley
Spokane, WA
86' XR4Ti
37

Pump chosen was chosen after a nice long talk with a oil pump dood at Melling.
The standard 2.3 TURBO pump is an excellent pump, but we are using a BIG oil cooler and some x length of hoses, so more volume was wanted.
If'n youse wuz using a Volvo cooler, I'd say what the fuck and go with a notmal TURBO pump which is already a HV pump----relative to the base 2300 pump.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

So anyone know the thread for a relocation plate on the block to move the oil cooler. Is the Volvo sandwich plate the same diameter and thread as the Merkur? I've been searching all the usual places with no luck.

Permacool from http://www.bakerprecision.com/filtmnt.htm

Parallel Flow Style - Single Filter Base
Part No. 1791 - $33.81
Single filter mount with 1/2" NPT (int) ports right and left. 3/4 - 16 thread
Part No. 1793 - $33.81
Single filter mount with 1/2" NPT (int) ports right and left. 13/16 -16 thread

Removed the bumper and AC components on Saturday morning. Measured for radiator and intercooler piping and some other stuff. Still haven't decided on a 120 deg. rotated intake or 90 degree with a relocated alternator though so can't move forward yet.

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Grant Hughes

Does nobody make one with AN/JIC ports directly? Why does it all seem to be Leaky Pipe Thread?

No.
Here's the right parts
771-1791 Ford/Chrysler V8

$21.99




And
771-195 Universal Threads

$15.99

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

So, everything is on it's way.
Setrab Oil Cooler 11.75 X 5.75 X 2 with AN-10 in/out
Setrab PS Cooler 6.5 X 5.75 X 2 with AN-8 in/out
Permacool Remote Thermostat (1070)
Permacool Adapter 1791
Permacool Remote Filter mount 195
8 AN-10 to 1/2" NPT (For filter mount, turbo return on block, and remote thermostat, one spare)
2 AN-10 to 3/8" NPT (For adapter on block)
1 AN-6 to 1/2" NPT (for filter mount to turbo)
These are extras I bought for identifying purposes
2 AN-6 to 1/4" NPT
1 AN-6 to 1/8" NPT

I got a free big box of various AN hose and fittings from a local Nascar team. Deal was I could use whatever I wanted and ebay the rest for the person who gave it to me. Total cost for all of this so far is a bit over $300. I plan to make a crossmember to bolt where the ac condenser used to that both coolers will mount to. Also going to make an additional lower crossmember for skidplate mounting and air dams to radiator.
So John, in your setups are you simply blocking off the stock turbo feed/oil pressure gauge? I plan to run all of this the same as you state just with the remote thermostat and a Setrab cooler. Excessive? Probably. I'm sure I could have just settled with an RX7 cooler, which has shown to be sufficient, but not only am I trying to build to a high spec, I'm also trying to lead by example and get my other rally friends to not do things half-ass.

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Grant Hughes