Anyone have any recommendations?
Getting ready to pick up both for the shop. Well, the pressure washer is also going to be used to make snow in the two empty lots next door for our Ruckus powered urban snowboard park.

this bandsaw: http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/1980755838.html

Or any older DoAll that you can find in your price range.

I am afraid if I ever came up there for the weekend to wire up your XR I would not get anything done on the car....

You do know I a 3 times un defeated CT70 back yard racing champion? It is my most proudest motorsport accomplishment!

You think vertical over horizontal? It seemed like most of the steel application ones I saw were horizontal.

You have seen the 24 Minutes of Ruckus video right Sean?

The snow park though will be a Ruckus driving one way down an alley and through some pulley system pulling a person on a snowboard across a snow covered field. The snow scooter race keeps getting put on hold due to lack of committment and decent depth snow. We were thinking midnight at City Park golf course, 24 minute endurance race again though.

But now everyone's doing GY6 swaps and building faster and more modified Ruckus' so who knows.

What are you trying to cut with it? If you are cutting bar and tube to length then get a horizontal like this:

If this is for making tabs and brackets out of plate then you need a vertical contouring saw like this:

Primary use will be the construction of rally jack pin stands.

Basically going to be building a modified version of this. The 65 degree of so angle at the top join is the hard one.

Quote
NoCoast
Primary use will be the construction of rally jack pin stands.

Basically going to be building a modified version of this. The 65 degree of so angle at the top join is the hard one.

I made mine on my cheap ass horiz/vert metal band saw that I got from northerntool.....$250 shipped. We made a make-shift jig for the tight top angles.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365120_200365120

Compared to Tim's suggestions its basically a tonka toy, but it works and is small enough to stick in a corner. Its also what I used to rebuild my front end out of DOM, and since everything was MIG welded, I was able to use it to do some basic tube notching (with help from a grinder).


If I had more cash and more space, it'd be cool to get something like this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200418479_200418479



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2010 02:39PM by Jon Burke.

We're you getting one cut per stand for the tight top angles or did you have to do it with two cuts?

Did you do that in horizontal or upright position?

Quote
NoCoast
We're you getting one cut per stand for the tight top angles or did you have to do it with two cuts?

Did you do that in horizontal or upright position?

one cut per side/piece, if that's what you mean.

I did it in the horizontal position. the 'notches' I do in the vertical, but you could do it either way I supposed.

and I suggest upgrading the blades....I went though 3 of the 'northern tool' replacement blades pretty quick, then went down to the local hardware store and got a decent brand there and i'm still on the same blade over a year later (and several projects).

Quote
Tim Taylor
What are you trying to cut with it? If you are cutting bar and tube to length then get a horizontal like this:

If this is for making tabs and brackets out of plate then you need a vertical contouring saw like this:

what is the advantage of one vs the other for the tasks you describe?

Quote
mothra

Quote
Tim Taylor
What are you trying to cut with it? If you are cutting bar and tube to length then get a horizontal like this:

If this is for making tabs and brackets out of plate then you need a vertical contouring saw like this:

what is the advantage of one vs the other for the tasks you describe?

the horizontal one you can clamp your piece in place, turn on the saw, put it on the piece and just stand there and watch it cut. It'll turn off automatically once the saw cuts though (even my little one does that). Its pretty nice, just keep an eye on it and it basically cuts itself a nice straight/even cut every time.

Nope. I meant one cut per stand.
Make the cut, rotate it around so two pieces make one V.

Horizontal you set the material then bring the blade into the material. Vertical the blade is set and you move the material into the blade. Vertical can be finer detail whereas horizontal is better for cutting thicker metals. Think of it like a chop saw vs. a table saw.
I'm sure Tim could give some good specifics...

Hey John. Did you take any pics of the jig? Just curious. I had Mark go check out the Harbor Freight one as it's on sale plus I have an extra 20% coupon. He said it'd do 50-55 but would be easy to get more degrees out of it.
We still are arguing about pins. The pair of stands we build a while back got bent, one of them actually sheared and broke. It used 3/4" which I think is fine. Mark thinks we need to go 7/8" but that requires larger sockets and two weird sizes and thus more expensive.
I'm not sure how my pins broke. Dave Kern was borrowing them at the time. Probably ran over them with the Duramax. The front of the Merkur sat for weeks at a time on those stands and pretty sure it's heavier than the front of an Evo. Maybe.

Quote
NoCoast

We still are arguing about pins. The pair of stands we build a while back got bent, one of them actually sheared and broke. It used 3/4" which I think is fine. Mark thinks we need to go 7/8" but that requires larger sockets and two weird sizes and thus more expensive.
I'm not sure how my pins broke. Dave Kern was borrowing them at the time. Probably ran over them with the Duramax. The front of the Merkur sat for weeks at a time on those stands and pretty sure it's heavier than the front of an Evo. Maybe.

Are you ready to litigate???!!!
(Bonus points for know just which Samoan lawyer in the employ of which former Colorado resident said that)


What broke? Where?