Dave, Sweet!!!! we may be rubbing paint at GRC Seattle...

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DaveK
RWD with moderate power is worlds more entertaining than open light though maybe not as fast in some conditions.

RWD is way more entertaining!

I should have come out to CORE. A lap in your car would have motivated me.

It wasn't the engine blowing that concerned me. It was the touch it and it breaks for every piece of wiring in the car. I wasn't about to spend $2-3k on a weekend to chase reliability issues.
Then once it's torn down it just makes sense to keep going. Probably should have covered or blocked passages on engine once it was out and just sprayed it down and slapped it back in.

On a positive note, I only have fuel pumps, filter, and engine related components left to buy. Oh and dealing with that wiring I've been ignoring too...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/28/2011 07:11PM by NoCoast.

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NoCoast
I should have come out to CORE. A lap in your car would have motivated me.

There's always next weekend.

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NoCoast
I wasn't about to spend $2-3k on a weekend to chase reliability issues.

I hear you on this, and that's probably 80% of the reason I never got to run Rally Colorado. Things were beat up from the hillclimb season and I ran out of money to fix stuff.

With the gearbox issues on the bmw, I'm now somewhat in doubt for making the GRC event, but we've still got some time. Trying to locate another gearbox in case the one in there needs to come out. The car still needs more time in the CORE blender and the nut behind the wheel needs some loctite i fear.

Dave

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DaveK

Quote
NoCoast
I should have come out to CORE. A lap in your car would have motivated me.

There's always next weekend.

Quote
NoCoast
I wasn't about to spend $2-3k on a weekend to chase reliability issues.

I hear you on this, and that's probably 80% of the reason I never got to run Rally Colorado. Things were beat up from the hillclimb season and I ran out of money to fix stuff.

With the gearbox issues on the bmw, I'm now somewhat in doubt for making the GRC event, but we've still got some time. Trying to locate another gearbox in case the one in there needs to come out. The car still needs more time in the CORE blender and the nut behind the wheel needs some loctite i fear.

Dave

Bushings sent...gotta see the dead ones.
Was ist der los with the boite vitesse?

So maybe a bad idea, but I think I'm going to go with the Volvo DOHC 16 valve head.
Here's some fun numbers to think about.

All heads were bone stock other than cleaning carbon off the ports. Factory valve job, same valve used for all tests. This is an intake flow comparison tested at 28" water on my bench. 1/2" clay radius on port entrance. 3.810" test bore on iron heads and 3.92" for esslinger heads.

-Lift"--Turbo D--EssyD---BoIronD---Volvo16v
.050"----27.8-----28.1-----31.1--------42.3
.100"----54.5-----51.4-----61.1--------85.1
.150"----75.4-----76.7-----94.5-------123.9
.200"----100.6---105.5----123.0------164.1
.250"----120.7---132.3----148.5------198.5
.300"----132.3---156.3----173.2------219.2
.350"----140.1---177.7----193.9------226.4
.400"----144.0---190.7----212.7------229.6
.450"----149.2---199.8----223.1------231.6
.500"----154.4---205.6----225.7------234.1
.550"----159.5---210.1----------------235.4
.600"----160.8---214.7----------------235.4

The first is the stock head. The second is the aluminium Esslinger head. One attractive thing about that head is that it's 30 lbs. less than a stock head. The third is the Bo-Port stage 3 ported head. The last is the Volvo DOHC 16 valve head.
The Esslinger head that's for sale locally has three solid lifter roller cam options. Unfortunately looking at their site it appears these are all... well, the power bands say it all.
http://www.esslingeracing.com/dport/dport%20ministock%20app.htm
5100-8200 for the Road Race? Must be making these for NA applications maybe.

Another benefit of the Volvo head is the intake manifold with big plenum and trumpets.

I also sent an email to John asking about recommendations for the bottom end to accomodate. Maybe he can build me a bottom end to go with the Volvo head that we can load in Dave's truck after Olympus. Or I can do it all here...

Grant, the Volvo head is a very smrat option.
There's just a few things that I'd really want to do different from All the guys who I have seen do it on the Volvos and that is to use cams optimised for turbo use....

If we look at the flow, the ports etc we see it flows really well at all lifts. When we have a head that flows, we don‘t have to be aggressive or long duration or high lift.
So we can/should run very mild duration, moderate lift, kinda low com because of the big bore---then reasonable boost.

Cam profile mild for a mild easy to drive powerband, and get the revs from simple flow....

In the bottom end I say run as long a rod as you can find and the longest I've found that leaves some crown for a stout ring pack---you are a 'privateer' and you don't want to be tearing the motor down twice a season.
Raceengineering shows some 5.6" c-c rods and some forged pistons to match the comp hgt. Stock is 5.2"c-c so 0.4 or right at 10mm longer.
Lighter piston, better rod angles for more powerz delivered to crank, better rod/stroke ratio and better dwell at TDC.
The differential cost is the rods since pistons is gionna cost sumpin anyways.

Note: Cylinder 1-2 is the same bore spacing as 3-4 but in their visdom Volvo make 2-3 about 2mm further apart.
That means you have to bias the valve reliefs in the crown to accommodate that, cause no point in making valve cut outs if the wrongly positioned.

I intend to take some 16V cores down to the cam shop and see if we could copy stock YB Cossie profiles.
I just pulled a full Volvo 16 a few days ago for this very idea..



Of course you could just drop in one of the 3 YBB or the YBG I have here done.

and save 90 lbs. at the same time.

John.
I'll measure the bore on the block. Plan is to disassemble and take to a shop for cleaning up and maybe make a pretty circle. Not sure if it's been bored before on the short block.
Cams are turbo specific ones with 0.438" lift and upgraded springs.

I'd love to get some CP pistons and long rods from you to go with this.

YB would be nice, but their expensive little buggas from what I've seen.

Then again, there is always this...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/COSWORTH-YB-DIVISION-1-RALLYCROSS-ENGINE-/270668533605?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f051a0f65

This may end up being more money and work than other options, but at least it's something i can get excited about.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2011 06:44PM by NoCoast.

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NoCoast
John.
I'll measure the bore on the block. Plan is to disassemble and take to a shop for cleaning up and maybe make a pretty circle. Not sure if it's been bored before on the short block.
Cams are turbo specific ones with 0.438" lift and upgraded springs.

I'd love to get some CP pistons and long rods from you to go with this.

YB would be nice, but their expensive little buggas from what I've seen.

Then again, there is always this...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/COSWORTH-YB-DIVISION-1-RALLYCROSS-ENGINE-/270668533605?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f051a0f65

This may end up being more money and work than other options, but at least it's something i can get excited about.

What cams. more info please. Intake opens , Intake closes , exhaust opens, exhaust closes, lift at TDC etc?

Specs are:
intake open 32 BTDC
intake close 76 ATDC
exhaust open 80 BBDC
exhaust close 28 ATDC
lift 0.438/0.438 ADV DUR 288/288

Specs @ 0.050"
intake open 3 BTDC
intake close 47 ATDC
exhaust open 51 BBDC
exhaust close -1 ATDC
lift 0.438/0.438 ADV DUR 230/230

LSA 114
degree intake lobe to 112

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NoCoast
Specs are:
intake open 32 BTDC
intake close 76 ATDC
exhaust open 80 BBDC
exhaust close 28 ATDC
lift 0.438/0.438 ADV DUR 288/288

Specs @ 0.050"
intake open 3 BTDC
intake close 47 ATDC
exhaust open 51 BBDC
exhaust close -1 ATDC
lift 0.438/0.438 ADV DUR 230/230

LSA 114
degree intake lobe to 112

What are these cams? Whose, what are they called?
Just for comparison, Cossie cams---and they pull like a truck and rev past 7000 nicely -------at @ .050 is a whopping 199 degrees duration.

Now maybe I have it all wrong but I thought the object was to make torque when we want a car to accelerate.

Pyropete's.
Specs taken from his ebay ad for them.

I don't know much about cams.

Question from the peanut gallery - about what's the YB head flow? I mean, I'd assume more than the Volvo 4-valver, but I don't really have much to back that up.

Burton power YB rally cam:
LIFT: 0.3507" DURATION: 261deg TIMING: INLET 115deg/EXH 110deg.

Stock YB:
LIFT: 0.3346" DURATION: 241deg TIMING: INLET 115deg/EXH 110deg.

Piper Evo Rally Cam:
Advertised Duration - 265 deg
Effective Duration - 217 deg @ 1mm
Lift - 0.4527"

That's all I could find quickly...
Not too far off the YB rally cam though...

More YB cams... The second duration row is at 1mm or 0.397
http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/Ford_YB_Cosworth.html

partnr.
duration
duration
maximum lift
lift at TDC
application

2330828
267 / 263°
231 / 230°
0.431" / 0.372"
.051" / .051"
HYDR: rally & cross

2330830
274 / 267°
236 / 228°
0.431" / 0.431"
0.067" / 0.047"
HYDR: rally & race