Seems to me that if you're going to make a turbo motor then you shouldn't have to rev the piss out of it. That is what the added torks are supposed to help. If you want to rev the piss out of a motor then build a NA sidedraft or ITB engine.

Stay with hydraulics, keep the rrsss under 7000 and live forever. Solid lifters are ok if they aren't shimmers. Shims are just hi maintainance and fussy.

So, head work is still being done. Well, mostly intake but still have to determine if I'm going to reuse hydraulic lifters and have Knox Motorsport replicate a YB cam which means getting one from Washington to NC and $750 for the cam. Then there is the bottom end work and pistons and rods and such. Probably another grand. So I came upon this yesterday:
http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/pts/2373232472.html

Guy will part with the long block for $500. That would free me up to build the full race engine more leisurely and be able to get back onto stage as soon as possible. Maybe the Volvo headed race engine can go into the next shell with the Drenth MPG box.

I'm going part time in a few weeks at work. Mostly so I can finish my thesis but also so I have time to work on the car. If I grab this long block I'll just be a few fuel pumps and a fuel filter away from being able to start reassembly!

He says no shortcuts but didn't install new pistons? Seems like 130k on the old pistons and then honing the block with just rings may result in an oil burner at least. Seems like.

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heymagic
He says no shortcuts but didn't install new pistons? Seems like 130k on the old pistons and then honing the block with just rings may result in an oil burner at least. Seems like.

I've seen a fairly good number of these at low 100s miles and they're still good in side clearance on the top ring. I scrap more pistons for that alone than skirt wear or bore wear.

Only way to check tho is a new ring in the piston and feel-her-gauges.


Crude a lump as it is, the damn 2,3 works pretty damn good.

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john vanlandingham

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heymagic
He says no shortcuts but didn't install new pistons? Seems like 130k on the old pistons and then honing the block with just rings may result in an oil burner at least. Seems like.

I've seen a fairly good number of these at low 100s miles and they're still good in side clearance on the top ring. I scrap more pistons for that alone than skirt wear or bore wear.

Only way to check tho is a new ring in the piston and feel-her-gauges.


Crude a lump as it is, the damn 2,3 works pretty damn good.

Yep they are good old motors. Datsuns used to get a bit worn at 100K. I've re-ringed them and had a few burn a bit of oil. That's why I mentioned it. Being a boosted motor I'd hate to see Grant get hosed on it. Prolly have better parts than a L20 because of the turbo??

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heymagic

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john vanlandingham

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heymagic
He says no shortcuts but didn't install new pistons? Seems like 130k on the old pistons and then honing the block with just rings may result in an oil burner at least. Seems like.

I've seen a fairly good number of these at low 100s miles and they're still good in side clearance on the top ring. I scrap more pistons for that alone than skirt wear or bore wear.

Only way to check tho is a new ring in the piston and feel-her-gauges.


Crude a lump as it is, the damn 2,3 works pretty damn good.

Slugs forged in der Vaterland by Mahle, Germany, finished machined by happy Brazilians in Tabaute, Brazil, at "Industria Brasilia" which was a joint VW, Ford, Mahle, and Sachs giant conglomerate, and are surprisingly nice for a ol beast all iron thang.

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Yep they are good old motors. Datsuns used to get a bit worn at 100K. I've re-ringed them and had a few burn a bit of oil. That's why I mentioned it. Being a boosted motor I'd hate to see Grant get hosed on it. Prolly have better parts than a L20 because of the turbo??

All you need is a spotlessly clean piston, new rings and feeler gauges.
Max 0,1mm or .004"

Okay. So I'm going to check out and possibly purchase this engine so I can get a running car in a few months instead of quarters or years.

Here's what I was thinking:
1) Plastiguage main bearings.
2) Remove rod caps.
3) Remove piston and check side gap and ring gaps
4) Plastiguage rod bearings.

Anything I'm missing? Anything else I should look at? Anything in the head I should concern myself with. I'm not very confident about buying some random guy's project but for $500 I could have an engine ready to be installed and probably be rallying again by Ojibwe in August. But like Gene said, would hate to get hosed and would rather take the time to inspect it thoroughly prior to purchase.

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NoCoast
Okay. So I'm going to check out and possibly purchase this engine so I can get a running car in a few months instead of quarters or years.

Here's what I was thinking:
1) Plastiguage main bearings.
2) Remove rod caps.
3) Remove piston and check side gap and ring gaps
4) Plastiguage rod bearings.

Anything I'm missing? Anything else I should look at? Anything in the head I should concern myself with. I'm not very confident about buying some random guy's project but for $500 I could have an engine ready to be installed and probably be rallying again by Ojibwe in August. But like Gene said, would hate to get hosed and would rather take the time to inspect it thoroughly prior to purchase.

Mike the journals. Look at the bearings and report what brand and size. If they're anything we know, we know the exact size to the .0001.
Then add and subtract.
Housing bore (you can snap-gauge them, then mike the snap gauge) minus the 2 shells= ID with bearings fitted. Subtract the journal you miked all round, and checked for taper (mike at front of journal then at back) and the answer better be at min .0015 or better .002" to max .003"
Looser is OK and a motor you're beating hard.

Platigage is just OK but I don't like it cause a) there's a good chance of user error, and b) its a snap shot of only the clearance on the one plane you have the strip of Plasti-gage, and I wanna know the journal is ROUND all the way round the journal.

I mike all bearings with a ball nosed mike:


You can get a tip attachment for ordinary mike.


You mike the bearing, mark it with a Sharpie and check that against the book spec found at ACL or King Bearing so then you know to the .0001 what the shell thickness is.

Ehhh, just buy it and wing it in there, and be at Buena Vista in 3 weeks instead of 3-months. See thread here where some guy was just going to measure stuff before re-installing to see how that can snowball into a year long project. Besides, its not like Mark built it.

Dave

Hahaha. I knew exactly where that link was going Dave.

I'll be at Buena Vista. Where you gonna be?

Oh and Dave. Remember that first summer Steve bought his Talon in 2004? We ran Monarch, the stupid oil cooler sandwich plate backed off and boom boom goes engine. We did six engine installs during the next few months of that summer. Mostly due to Steve not doing things correctly or not checking parts he bought. We all learned alot about the 4G63 engines that summer. I think this was about the order.
1. Installed rod caps onto wrong ones. We didn't realize they were specific to each cylinder. Wouldn't spin so just had to disassemble and reassemble.
2. Crank had shit in journals. No oil to furthest bearings and spun those right away.
4. JDM motor off ebay. Installed without looking at it. Hole and broken valve. Ironically it still cranked and ran, just like garbage.

I don't recall what else was wrong. Finally Brian told Steve to bring it to Champagne and he'd help him through it properly. That was pretty much the start of their business relationship. Though in our defense we were literally just winging it with no experience, no mentors, and lots of enthusiasm.

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NoCoast
I'll be at Buena Vista. Where you gonna be?

Probably dialing in the new suspension on the Evo and getting a feel for some new race rubber. Figure we'll be tweaking the aero a bit too. Sooo pissed they flopped the dates for CORE & BV b/c I really wanted to run BV in the Evo. Oh well...there's always Maine.

Dave

Just IMO....
- Hydraulics are fine, no need for anything else for the turbo RPM ranges for all the reasons given.
- A good block well built 100% right is a good basis for a solid engine. Why risk the head work on an unknown block to save $500? A weak oil pump would not be good for a new cam......
- As for the extra wear on the front bearing, I would look more at a slightly warped block than a tight PS belt.

Mark B.

It's a stock long block that I would put in the car. The Volvo headed engine can then be built more slowly. Scott and I are going up on Thursday to check it out. He's bringing tools from his shop to inspect stuff!

My accessories are a bit hodge podge. I have a Mustang P/S bracket with a Thunderbird P/S reservoir (only one offered with remote reservoir). Both from around 87 or so. I have a 92 Ranger Alternator and bracket. The crank pulley and water pump pulley are from a Mustang too I believe. Changed from v-belt to serpentine. I need longer belts or to modify the tensioners to work better and knew that from the beginning. They were both too tight. As in even at the loosest setting on the alternator I had to loosen bolts from bracket to block to get enough loose to get the belt onto the pulley. P/S side was even worse. It is actually a pretty easy fix I just figured the only side effect would be broken belts if it was too tight so always had spares ready to go. Doh.

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NoCoast
It's a stock long block that I would put in the car. The Volvo headed engine can then be built more slowly. Scott and I are going up on Thursday to check it out. He's bringing tools from his shop to inspect stuff!

My accessories are a bit hodge podge. I have a Mustang P/S bracket with a Thunderbird P/S reservoir (only one offered with remote reservoir). Both from around 87 or so. I have a 92 Ranger Alternator and bracket. The crank pulley and water pump pulley are from a Mustang too I believe. Changed from v-belt to serpentine. I need longer belts or to modify the tensioners to work better and knew that from the beginning. They were both too tight. As in even at the loosest setting on the alternator I had to loosen bolts from bracket to block to get enough loose to get the belt onto the pulley. P/S side was even worse. It is actually a pretty easy fix I just figured the only side effect would be broken belts if it was too tight so always had spares ready to go. Doh.

Whatever "reasoning' that lead you to use a morphodite serpentine set up was in error.
Junk that shit and use just 2 $3.99 belts that you can have spares installed in mere minutes..and for which you can find in any Auto-zoo, Schucks O'rielly, Napa, Car Quest whatever in the whole gawddam country and likely survive with the next step up or down or alternate width even----instead of fucking around with one thing which IF perfect doesn't do anything the 2 $3.99 belt do just fine, but if wrong are fucked OPP!

What the fuck were you thinking? I mean what da fawk????

No1 Rally rule violation : SIMPLE is better than not simple.

Well, didya junk the shit yet?
Whatcher waiting for?