Holy giant brakes, Batman! 6 piston Wilwood + 2250lb + Gravel =?????

My F550 2 ton worktruck doesn't have brakes that big.

I guess I now know the secret to "Never LIFT!"

Just saw the video from this weekend. Bummer.

How's the car looking? The engine OK at least? Looks like you had a K series swap in there too.

For those that didn't see it:

Lots of question marks about the car. The strut tower was pushed into the motor pretty good so the head may be toast. I think the shell is gone but a new front clip might be an option, depending on how bad the a-pillar is.

Most of the expensive bits appear to be ok, with the exception of one of the 36 hour old Proflex dampers .

The car was wicked fast but those damn wheel spacers may have been its demise since it torque steered, caught and sent me into the barrier. Great racing none the less. I just wish I had driven the car at least once before qualifying on Friday.

Andrew

Yeah, it looked pretty quick. Just some bad luck on a temp barrier not giving away. I did a replay a few times, and even put it in for a frame by frame... those temporary barriers just kinked at the wrong spot really.

I've done a bunch of runs at karting places that use those same (although shorter) barriers and ride them and they always moved out of the way. Kind of in a "wave" like fashion. But they weren't tied into the floors at all. It seems like you rode the barriers for a bit, but one of them was more "planted" and decided to kink the opposite way and then it got braced by the whole line of 20 some odd other ones behind it and it went from a hollow plastic barrier to the consistency of a brick wall.

If that one barrier wasn't tied down in some way, it actually freaks me out that they can kink like that because you were pretty much running a tangent to the arc of the barriers. If that happens in a kart... I think I'll stop riding the walls there from now on.

If the strut tower got pushed into the motor (I'm assuming cam side) you could be looking at skipped teeth or seized cams, you're talking valve-on-piston contact.

Unless you got free access to a frame puller, it might just seem easier to re-shell, rebuild the front dampers while checking for any bent internal stuff. I spent $300 (with a big discount from a buddies body shop) pulling my frame back from a first stage visit to a frozen bank at Sno*Drift this year. That was only the passenger frame rail pushed back, in and up an inch each direction.

Hope you get things worked out, I'd like to know the status as you go along.

It looks like that big straight line of barriers was filled with water. At least in the replay if you watch the barriers when contact is made, something comes squirting up out of all of them and they barely move, except for the ones that are obviously empty.

Was the white barrier plastic or cement? The way it moves and bounces looked very cementy to me.

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BillyElliot


If that one barrier wasn't tied down in some way, it actually freaks me out that they can kink like that because you were pretty much running a tangent to the arc of the barriers. If that happens in a kart... I think I'll stop riding the walls there from now on.

Hopefully you're not riding the inside walls. The last white-orange connection was sort of the "apex" on the corner, and when he pushed the leading edge of the white barrier in, there was no way for it to move the orange one, so it kinked.

Tough luck for both of you. The 2wd looked sort of slow during the coverage until you try to frame-by-frame the impact and realize just how fast they were moving.

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fliz
Hopefully you're not riding the inside walls.

This was only at the kart place in Las Vegas. Was doing that to the inside and outside of turns. Insides were to push the apex in while the outside was extending the radius of the turn.

My local kart track has very solid barriers, so I only use the walls to slow me down at the long straight.

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fliz
Tough luck for both of you. The 2wd looked sort of slow during the coverage until you try to frame-by-frame the impact and realize just how fast they were moving.

You know, I was standing by the back wall, and no one looked slow. I mean, the 2WD cars were definitely slower than the AWD ones, but not by much, and I think if they were a little clever with how they shot it they could keep the intensity up. I'm no cinematographer, but maybe pulling away for the AWD cars and keeping the 2WD ones in a tighter focus would help.

I didn't see every heat (I sorta got shanghaied into helping with Lauchlin's engine swap) but actually I thought the 2WD ones were more interesting because of the variation in the cars and because the AWD cars kept breaking. There was one heat where two of the AWD cars broke right away and so we just watched one car go around and around. Not very exciting.

Oh shit... sorry to hear about this ordeal man. If your motor is damaged dont worry you would be upgrading to the Type S motor anyways. I have a spare one (longblock) in my garage that I can sell you super cheap just to make the space.

Doing a front clip is fairly easy on hondas but its more time consuming than to just get the rails/towers pulled.

Any updates or pics of the aftermath? Just curious to see what gave and where.

I saw that the car is on the entry list for the RallyX at Dirt Fish, so i would guess things are coming back together?

Sorry, I’ve been really busy trying to get ready for Seattle. I'll take some pictures of the damage once I have next weekend behind me.

The shell was beyond repair, for me. The passenger a-pillar was pushed in over 8", right in front of the cage a-pillar leg. To fix it would require welding on a whole new shell from about the middle of the front doors forward. Not impossible, just not worth it.

The car entered for Seattle is a new car. I found it on CL about 3 miles from my house a week and half ago. It was a roller that had already been gutted, which was perfect! The guys at Pierce Motorsports (http://www.piercemotorsports.me/) installed the cage in 3 days!! It’s a lot more robust than the cage in the first car, which is a good thing! Now the car is at Evolution Racewerks having all of the salvageable parts transferred from the wreck to the new shell.

I need to leave for Seattle by Wednesday night and there are lots of parts still in transit so I’m not sure we’ll make it. The car took a big hit at Irwindale, breaking the tranny mount on the case and the stub axles mount. I’m not sure that the car will be even run or drive properly once it’s back together.

Best of luck.

Hope you make it. Let me know if you need a place to drop ship parts to or anything.

It took me probably six months of weekends to swap out a totaled car into a new rolling chassis... Can't imagine doing it in a few short weeks.

Dunno if you want another spare shell, but this popped up locally. http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/2317107389.html

Says all the tubes are 1.75" DOM Cage is built to 8.5 sec NHRA spec. Couple of extra bars and you have a clean/prepped spare shell.