Brake hard lines & fittings--again.

OK, So I have looked at all kinds of threads on this topic and looked at all kinds of online stores for the parts I might need but always seem to come up short and don't want to be putting adapters on adapters on adapters to rig stuff together all over the place.

So, here is the setup I want to do:

Stock 22mm VW Master cylinder with M10x1.0 ports (all VW stuff is bubble flare I think)

FRONTS--easy get hard-line and 4 tube-nuts----->
Softline to stock front calipers--easy, use stock lines or SS line kit I already have.
....done!

REARS--this is the hard part as the system needs to look something like this:
2 lines from master cylinder---->
2 bulkhead fittings through firewall---->
stock prop valve (2-in 2-out)--->
"T" fitting to single line--->
handbrake in---->
handbrake out--->
brake light pressure switch--->
"T" to double lines--->
Each line to bulkhead fitting at rear wheel well--->
Softlines to calipers (banjo at caliper).


The big problem seems to be that the only bulkhead fittings I have seen are AN which requires adapting back and forth. M10x1.0 metric bulkhead fittings would make life lots easier....

Josh,

I have not seen metric bulk head fittings in any catalogs. However, it is possible that JVL knows of some obscure cars that had these.

Metric T fittings can be had from the old Bugs.

You may end up having to make brake lines with a bubble flare on one end and AN flares on the other.

---

Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

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Josh Wimpey
OK, So I have looked at all kinds of threads on this topic and looked at all kinds of online stores for the parts I might need but always seem to come up short and don't want to be putting adapters on adapters on adapters to rig stuff together all over the place.

So, here is the setup I want to do:

Stock 22mm VW Master cylinder with M10x1.0 ports (all VW stuff is bubble flare I think)

FRONTS--easy get hard-line and 4 tube-nuts----->
Softline to stock front calipers--easy, use stock lines or SS line kit I already have.
....done!

REARS--this is the hard part as the system needs to look something like this:
2 lines from master cylinder---->
2 bulkhead fittings through firewall---->
stock prop valve (2-in 2-out)--->
"T" fitting to single line--->
handbrake in---->
handbrake out--->
brake light pressure switch--->
"T" to double lines--->
Each line to bulkhead fitting at rear wheel well--->
Softlines to calipers (banjo at caliper).


The big problem seems to be that the only bulkhead fittings I have seen are AN which requires adapting back and forth. M10x1.0 metric bulkhead fittings would make life lots easier....

Josh, I use metric only where I absolutely have to.
ie at the calipers and the master.
I prefer to use a male/male M10 to -3 adapter and consider it a permanent thang.

All other junctions and fittings I do inch just to make things easier.
-3 bulkhead in steel is findable for less than the common $8-14

Quote

3 AN Straight Bulkhead Fitting - Steel



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Item number: 380264038644

Then everything is easy.

And of course a simple electrical switch instead of a pain in the ass pressure switch simplifies things even more.

Then for the flex hoses if you don't want to assemble your own, now you can buy -3 swivel hoses for cheep from any circle track joint pre-made.


OR M10 x 1 bubble flare nut to terminate hard lines at master:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6420-sur-r-br230.aspx
S.U.R. & R. BR230
M10 x 1.0 Bubble Flare Nut (Euro, Domestic)
Order No. SRRBR230

0.0

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List Price: $6.11
Sale Price: $3.40
You save: $2.71 (44.35%)
Availablility: In Stock

Or:
S.U.R. & R. BR250 - M10 x 1.0 Bubble Flare Nut (VW, Audi)S.U.R. & R. BR250
M10 x 1.0 Bubble Flare Nut (VW, Audi)

Order No. SRRBR250
Sale Price: $4.75
S.U.R. & R. BR255 - M10 x 1.0 Bubble Flare Nut (Ford)S.U.R. & R. BR255
M10 x 1.0 Bubble Flare Nut (Ford)

Order No. SRRBR255
Sale Price: $3.85

Why not put the tee in the engine bay? Or for that matter why have a tee at all, just plug one of the ports off.

(You're converting to front/rear at the same time instead of diagonal split, right? )

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Pete
Why not put the tee in the engine bay? Or for that matter why have a tee at all, just plug one of the ports off.

(You're converting to front/rear at the same time instead of diagonal split, right? )

Yes, but I am using the 2-in 2-out stock prop valve

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john vanlandingham
And of course a simple electrical switch instead of a pain in the ass pressure switch simplifies things even more.

Only if you discount the fact that it is a necessity in order to fool the damn ECU into never "seeing" brakes.

I'd put your brake light switch before the handbrake so that handbrake doesn't turn on brake lights.
Other than that, I'm useless.

Josh,

Why are you using the stock prop valve? Just get an adjustible one and be done with it.

Also, for the firewall you can use AN fitting with a tube nut and tube sleeve. I can email you a schematic of what to run and what fittings.




AN to hardline

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Cosworth
Josh,

Why are you using the stock prop valve? Just get an adjustible one and be done with it.

The aftermarket ones suck by comparison for range of adjustment and reliability.

Interesting. Do you just make a bracket for a thumbwheel?

Just to give you some incentive to get after it.

Its all about having the right tools, patience, and a little bit of time. Its much easier to use AN stuff stated above and do all your metric conversions at the device that needs it.

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Josh Wimpey

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Cosworth
Josh,

Why are you using the stock prop valve? Just get an adjustible one and be done with it.

The aftermarket ones suck by comparison for range of adjustment and reliability.

Yes the cheap ones true, but the Tilton and AP units are top notch and I normally recommend them for applications that dont allow a balance bar. Trust me, these two are good and give you an adjustment from 30% to 80% of pressure reduction.

Why do you need bulkhead fittings?

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heymagic
Why do you need bulkhead fittings?

Just need to go through the firewall ans then through the rear wheel wells...

Gene's point is use a gasket around the tube - no need to have a connection at the firewall

---

-Jason