Brake hard lines & fittings--again.

Something similar to a rubber grommet, or? I just added hard lines and a hydro handbrake today and was wondering how to seal the 1/2 hole in the fire wall.
I did end up using a bulkhead fitting when it went out the back to support the lines better.
This was my first time running hard lines and I definitely learned a lot.

The only place where a bulkhead fitting is really advantageous is in the wheel wells. If you damage the brake line when a tire comes apart, it is much easier to repair if the hose is attached to a solid mounted bulkhead fitting.

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Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

I'm actually getting ramped up to do a little brake line work myself. anyone want to recommend some decent bending/flaring tools? there's a shit ton of stuff out there, I'm sure a lot of it is cheap crap, but i can't spend $350 on a pro flaring toolkit either.

What's subaru brake line dia? 3/16th?

I used one of these "cord grips" to passthru a brakeline in the body:

http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-Connector-Metallic-Sheathed/dp/B000BQK2EM

Typically available at home depot for around $3. I put a piece of rubber fuel line around the brakeline to bush the 3/16" hardline up to size of the rubber bushing in the cord grip.

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JonArmstrong
I used one of these "cord grips" to passthru a brakeline in the body:

http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-Connector-Metallic-Sheathed/dp/B000BQK2EM

Typically available at home depot for around $3. I put a piece of rubber fuel line around the brakeline to bush the 3/16" hardline up to size of the rubber bushing in the cord grip.

Good idea.

Any extra fittings, either fuel or brake are just more places for leaks or failures. Grommets are your friends

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Jon Burke
I'm actually getting ramped up to do a little brake line work myself. anyone want to recommend some decent bending/flaring tools? there's a shit ton of stuff out there, I'm sure a lot of it is cheap crap, but i can't spend $350 on a pro flaring toolkit either.

What's subaru brake line dia? 3/16th?

Jon, I used the Rigid ($130 from Speedway) flaring tool. It's the bomb tastic, and I didn't have any problem with stainless steel lines at all. The self stop mechanism doesn't work with ss lines, so you have to use a wrench to turn the handle.
The tool uses a ground cone that runs on bearings. It's also not on axis with the screw so the cone rolls around the flare, reducing tool wear.

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NoCoast
I'd put your brake light switch before the handbrake so that handbrake doesn't turn on brake lights.
Other than that, I'm useless.

Good thing to do. When I was building my car I had originally though of putting it there. Could have done tech items without actually having to sit in the car and press the brake pedal. It really doesn't matter if it's before or after the handbrake. But like you said, it will turn on the brake lights with a dab of the handbrake.


To add my 2 cents, since it might not mean much because I used Tilton dual masters...

I ran from the masters to -3 AN fittings. Ran braided stainless lines from the masters to AN bulkhead fittings. Had a T bulkhead fitting through the firewall to front wheels. A straight bulkhead fitting inside the car for the rears that started the hardlines inside the car. That went to the handbrake and then another T fitting. Then those each went to a straight bulkhead fitting for the rear wheels.

I terminated all my hard lines with a -3 nut and sleeve. Then I did a -3 male to SAE male adapter. That way, I can go to a parts store and run OEM lines if for some reason I need another spare brake line.

I did all my flaring with the summit 37° flaring tool and haven't had any problems. I just made sure to use steel fittings/nuts/sleeves for all the high pressure stuff on the brake lines. I used a mix of aluminum and steel for the fuel line fittings (whatever was cheaper).