Something similar to a rubber grommet, or? I just added hard lines and a hydro handbrake today and was wondering how to seal the 1/2 hole in the fire wall.
I did end up using a bulkhead fitting when it went out the back to support the lines better. This was my first time running hard lines and I definitely learned a lot. |
Rallymech Robert Gobright Mega Moderator Location: White Center Seattle Join Date: 04/27/2008 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,292 Rally Car: 91 VW GTI 8V |
The only place where a bulkhead fitting is really advantageous is in the wheel wells. If you damage the brake line when a tire comes apart, it is much easier to repair if the hose is attached to a solid mounted bulkhead fitting.
Robert. "You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli. |
Jon Burke Jon Burke Mod Moderator Location: San Francisco, CA Join Date: 01/03/2008 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,402 Rally Car: Subaru w/<1000 crashes |
I'm actually getting ramped up to do a little brake line work myself. anyone want to recommend some decent bending/flaring tools? there's a shit ton of stuff out there, I'm sure a lot of it is cheap crap, but i can't spend $350 on a pro flaring toolkit either.
What's subaru brake line dia? 3/16th? |
JonArmstrong Jon Armstrong Godlike Moderator Location: Detroit Join Date: 03/25/2008 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 49 Rally Car: Rallycross Civic |
I used one of these "cord grips" to passthru a brakeline in the body:
http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-Connector-Metallic-Sheathed/dp/B000BQK2EM Typically available at home depot for around $3. I put a piece of rubber fuel line around the brakeline to bush the 3/16" hardline up to size of the rubber bushing in the cord grip. |
heymagic Banned Professional Moderator Location: La la land Join Date: 01/25/2006 Age: Fossilized Posts: 3,740 Rally Car: Not a Volvo |
Good idea. Any extra fittings, either fuel or brake are just more places for leaks or failures. Grommets are your friends ![]() |
Jon, I used the Rigid ($130 from Speedway) flaring tool. It's the bomb tastic, and I didn't have any problem with stainless steel lines at all. The self stop mechanism doesn't work with ss lines, so you have to use a wrench to turn the handle. The tool uses a ground cone that runs on bearings. It's also not on axis with the screw so the cone rolls around the flare, reducing tool wear. |
BillyElliot Billy Elliot Mann Professional Moderator Location: Royal Oak, MI Join Date: 08/11/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 557 Rally Car: 1996 Honda Civic with VTEC YO! |
Good thing to do. When I was building my car I had originally though of putting it there. Could have done tech items without actually having to sit in the car and press the brake pedal. It really doesn't matter if it's before or after the handbrake. But like you said, it will turn on the brake lights with a dab of the handbrake. To add my 2 cents, since it might not mean much because I used Tilton dual masters... I ran from the masters to -3 AN fittings. Ran braided stainless lines from the masters to AN bulkhead fittings. Had a T bulkhead fitting through the firewall to front wheels. A straight bulkhead fitting inside the car for the rears that started the hardlines inside the car. That went to the handbrake and then another T fitting. Then those each went to a straight bulkhead fitting for the rear wheels. I terminated all my hard lines with a -3 nut and sleeve. Then I did a -3 male to SAE male adapter. That way, I can go to a parts store and run OEM lines if for some reason I need another spare brake line. I did all my flaring with the summit 37° flaring tool and haven't had any problems. I just made sure to use steel fittings/nuts/sleeves for all the high pressure stuff on the brake lines. I used a mix of aluminum and steel for the fuel line fittings (whatever was cheaper). |