JVAB Hydraulic Handbrake?

These things SEEM pretty simple, and something tells me that if you can or have made some John, that they're way less expensive and probably better quality than the cheap ones out there, especially with a kit with the fittings and a few braided lines. Plus, that way the handle could be made to a more preferable height.

So John, do you want to make me one? It just seems to me that spending $400 on a decent K-sport handbrake and kit is just a LITTLE much for something like that.

When I was on the phone with Adam last night, he mentioned that I should almost certainly install a hydraulic handbrake with the Volvo rear end. So that's where this idea came from.

Not sure if John makes one, but on my BMW build I bought one from overseas and ordered up stainless braded lines once I knew where it was going to mount. Since my wife may spend some time in the driver's seat, I wanted a relatively long handle, and I couldn't find any of those in the US other than these (http://www.cncbrakes.com/hsb.asp?grp=hsb&subgrp=all&series=412&subseries=) which I didn't really like. I ended up with something like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vertical-Alloy-Hydraulic-Handbrake-4-drifting-rallying-/320672475694?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aa991aa2e

Flex lines in AN-3 range from ~$10-30 depending on length & fittings needed from HRP World (about a 2 week wait if you need custom stuff), though a local hydraulic shop should be able to whip something up too.

IMO, the K-sport stuff isn't that good because the handles aren't long enough. Should be just a quick pop on the handle, not a wrestling match. The only real problems you may run into with the cheapy ones is that the master cyl could be crap. Easy enough to replace with a wilwood one if that's the case.


Dave

CNC staging brake. $130. Works like magic!

I also used the CNC staging brake, but I ended up paying $160 for mine. You can get the dual turning brakes for a bit cheaper sometimes, but I'm not sure how well locking up the inside wheel will work.
The downside to the CNC brake is the handles are SUPER heavy and there's no lock, so you end up fabing something yourself (still working on that detail).

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Robert Culbertson
I also used the CNC staging brake, but I ended up paying $160 for mine. You can get the dual turning brakes for a bit cheaper sometimes, but I'm not sure how well locking up the inside wheel will work.
The downside to the CNC brake is the handles are SUPER heavy and there's no lock, so you end up fabing something yourself (still working on that detail).

For the park brake lock, I spent $2.50 at the Home Depot, bought some 1/8 wire rope, and a package of ferrels. I filed 3 notches in the handle about 1/3 of the way up, and made a loop around the handle, and bolted the other end of the cable to the Tunnel. Pull back on the handle, slide cable up to a notch, parking brake engaged. Works sweet.

I'm sure John's bracket is good, but you can't go wrong the CNC. Used lots of them, but we just buy the CNC bracket w/handle, then use a girling or tilton cyl on it. I'm not a fan of those CNC cyl's molded into the bracket...they look pretty cheezy.

we always used a bungy cord to hold parking...but Sean's idea is pretty clever I'd do that next time.

Those K-sport things are useless, and the flip over locks are shit, if its locked and somone stands on the brakes it will rip the lock out bend it etc. Plus I've heard of guys crashing becuase they went into a corner and when they yanked the HB the lock was loaded up by routebook/harness/water bottle whatever and made it flip over and engauge...

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phlat65


For the park brake lock, I spent $2.50 at the Home Depot, bought some 1/8 wire rope, and a package of ferrels. I filed 3 notches in the handle about 1/3 of the way up, and made a loop around the handle, and bolted the other end of the cable to the Tunnel. Pull back on the handle, slide cable up to a notch, parking brake engaged. Works sweet.

I need to rig something like this up for mine.

Currently has a line lock, which has a habit of not releasing when hot (I think it has something to do with the pressure building in the line as the fluid heats up). I've had to pop a bleed screw to release my rear wheels more than once.

this is what I'm looking at getting:

http://www.compbrake.co.uk/brakes-acc-39-s/handbrakes-acc-/cat_18.html

(last one down, 600mm handle, only about $120 plus shipping from UK).

Just need to fab up a mounting plate for it. I don't think it locks up, so I need to figure that out too.

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Gravel Spray
I'm sure John's bracket is good, but you can't go wrong the CNC. Used lots of them, but we just buy the CNC bracket w/handle, then use a girling or tilton cyl on it.

is there a special cyl that you need to use with this, or is it just any cyl with a threaded inlet port?



fwiw, Poly Performance http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Series-402-Hand-Brake-p-2176.html has the CNC handbrake w/o cylinder for $106.

Anything with threaded ports will work. We use the same brand cly on the HB as we used for the pedal box on each car, so you could have an extra "spare" that you could move around if you had a failure on the brakes or clutch system and didn't have any spares or seal kits.


You could even get a properly sized clutch M/C from napa(for what ever car) and drill/tap the inlet port for whatever your running for brake line. Some of those OEM M/C's are only $20!

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Gravel Spray
Anything with threaded ports will work. We use the same brand cly on the HB as we used for the pedal box on each car, so you could have an extra "spare" that you could move around if you had a failure on the brakes or clutch system and didn't have any spares or seal kits.


You could even get a properly sized clutch M/C from napa(for what ever car) and drill/tap the inlet port for whatever your running for brake line. Some of those OEM M/C's are only $20!

70s and 80s vintage Nissans are Girling/Lockeed whatever English stuff just made under licence---and that's why "5/8" or "3/4" is cast on the side in large, friendly figures) and are dimensionally the same 2.25" spacing for the bolt up, and Girling bits will interchange internally

Don't think K-sports are $400.

K-sport is $175
Wilwood 5/8 master is $50
Lines and fittings $50

But if you're putting it in, you'll be already going with solid or flex lines anyway so really you're only paying for the fittings.

I made mine from a free handle and a modified clutch master bracket so all I paid for was the 5/8" master. Still need to shim the handle since it has some side to side motion but it does the job. I'm probably going to make my own bracket like the compbrake ones since that's just some rectangles welded together eventually with a different handle.

While an e-brake is cool, having it in your face with a big long 600mm handle is a bit excessive for the handful of times you'll use it in a rally. I used mine a lot more at Sno*Drift however. Mine's probably a 300mm handle and it's fine.

I just made mine out of some 16 gauge sheet metal, a wilwood master, and some 1/4 inch aluminum. It's quite simple, and easy.

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Dazed_Driver
I just made mine out of some 16 gauge sheet metal, a wilwood master, and some 1/4 inch aluminum. It's quite simple, and easy.

How well does it lock up the wheels on stages?

Really it's the master and arm ratio that will matter? You could build up the thing from newspaper and toothpaste as long as it held up to the forces involved it would still work the same. It could double as a shiv if you meet up with an unhappy local!