Holy Crap. I mounted a Yoko A035 on a H.F. manual changer. Now with video*

I'll go ahead and change that one for consistencies sake buts it's good to hear that Pat R doesn't seem to care. I dunno how long it would take to wear down the outside edge on these things but once that happens I'll put the insides out and have fresh-ish edges again. Everybody seems to agree on sharp outside edges for good handling.

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Brap Brap.

I took a grinder to my HF iron. The part that hooks around the rim is cast wrong, at least from my experience with manually busting tires, so I modified the inner contour so it stayed on the rim better, and allowed more force to be put on the lever.

I also found that putting a piece of pipe on the part that still stuck up, and having someone hold it vertical, instead of allowing it to twist out from under the bead, helped a lot. If you've got the feet anchored SOLIDLY into the cement, and you know that the thing won't twist, you can do a lot. the anchors in my floor started coming loose after awhile just from the twisting motion. I think if the foot plate had the flat part against the floor, rather than having the ~1.5" of open C-channel, the anchors wouldn't move sideways as much, and keep in the floor better, too.

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---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973

Quote
krisdahl
I'm not sure how true that is that Olympus is mostly right hand turns.

But I'm pretty sure the orientation of the tires isn't as critical as it seems. Pat Richard told me once that they've run tires wrong side, backwards, etc. and it never seemed to matter.

Not only that but the fast guys cut them up so much you don't what the hell the started with anyway. I think the sharp edge and compound likely make way more difference than anything.