aj_johnson A.J. Johnson Godlike Moderator Location: Pendleton OR Join Date: 01/07/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 1,381 Rally Car: 88 Audi 80 |
Is there a good book, or online resource for understanding spring rates, valving and how they are calculated in the rally application? I'm beginning to understand just how little I know and I would really like to understand what I'm buying when the time comes.
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
As far as I know, they only way to learn anything about damping rates, springs and alignment settings is by gathering the available published set up info scattered all over the world of rally and putting things in one common language---rating language--and staring at it. The best sources all in one language is in the series of Ford Motorsport books from the Escort Rally Prep book from 1977, to Sierra rwd prep book in 1987, then the books which followed which are more parts lists but they do have set up sheets. They cover Escort Cos in GpA and N, FWD Escort F2 car and Escort World Rally Car. Then you need to sit and stare at photos and drawings of the position of the shocks relative to the wheel spindle to see if the suspension has leverage working on it or if it has a mechanic advantage and then you have to really open the brain up and assimilate this info and compare it with previous practice or as I call it "praxis". You can also study the damper rates developed for as many cars as possible, and for this I suggest learning Swedish (since it is far easier) and German (which is harder)(it's the damn verb position which mostly harder makes it)(<---That was German verb order) Give your self maybe 10-12 years of study and driving on every surface imaginable and at temps from -40 to 100F.. This might delay your choice a bit. |
aj_johnson A.J. Johnson Godlike Moderator Location: Pendleton OR Join Date: 01/07/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 1,381 Rally Car: 88 Audi 80 |
lol. I'm not looking to design the suspension, I'm just trying unlearn a lot of mis information. I just want basics
Most of the audi (street car) crowd is running much stiffer rates in the rear (fighting understeer) as opposed to the front. This sounds like some nose heavy jumpage to me, or does this carry over to rally rates. Are the rally rates really that much softer than an aggressive street setup? Why? Valving- I can stomach the idea of "we'll see if we can get it close and then adjust it from there" But how am I supposed to know if I want it adjusted, or how much adjustment I want if I dont understand how it works. The day the I start outdriving the car, rather than it being more capable than me I will worry about drastic alignment settings. I'd like to get the suspension right because it costs so damn much. as far as language I took 6 years of latin, and have no desire to ever learn another language in a classroom environment. I was able to hold a conversation in spanish after just a month or so of being around it. |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Latin won't help, but the funny thing is there is a small number of critical words in the search phase, then the cars are just car names. Gotta know that schotter is gravel in Allemani and grus is gravel in Sueoni I know what you mean you wanna know what the hell is what cause of cost but there's only one way as far as i know if you don't want to read all that Ford stuff and that's hire me to teach you. And as for How'd ya knoez if its working right? The car is stable, not jarring and as much as "an Audi is an Audi"....the horrible weight balance is going to be a basic factor hard to change..... I think Kerns rear bounce may very well have something to do with the length of the long 6. anyway, I gotta agree that it sucks big donkey dongs that people are 'spossed to cough up $2000 or $4800 or $6400 and all the info is "They really fantastic, mang!" Charge the cell phone..... |
aj_johnson A.J. Johnson Godlike Moderator Location: Pendleton OR Join Date: 01/07/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 1,381 Rally Car: 88 Audi 80 |
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Right here under cars and construction. Search "manuals scan". We think of youse guys in advance cause we just that sorta guys. We're not like the others.......... |
bean Rabin Rutten-James Mega Moderator Location: Canada Join Date: 06/13/2007 Posts: 152 Rally Car: None |
http://www.pvanvalkenburgh.com/Race%20Car%20Tec/engineer.html
Not rally specific, but I read it years ago and found it really quite good. If you just want the basics, this might be a good place to start. Pretty sure an engineering buddy stole it though - so I can't check my copy for the specifics you're after. Rabin |
peliwego Jimmy Pelizzari Junior Moderator Location: Traverse City, MI Join Date: 03/14/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 52 Rally Car: '88 Mazda 323 GTX |
Hey John,
I did a search for the manuals scan and couldn't find anything... My crew is finally starting to get things together so I may be callin you soon. Right now the 242 is serving as the ultimate chick magnet in ole NYC. That car club I told you i work at hasn't got a thing on it. |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Good grief! wait till its all waaaaaaaay bad and idling like an old school fuel dragster ba ba bop ba babop!!! VVRooooooom! ba ba bop! You gotta get some dark glasses---which you wear 24/7, and a flat brim hat. ![]() All the cool kids dues, why snot Youse? Then it's ba boom ba boom ba boom!!! |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Good grief, I's gots do dos everysting? linkie: http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,4777,page=1 |
AJ,
Do you feel you have a decent understanding of why different spring rates are chosen? It sounds like you do, if you understand why stiffer rear springs fight understeer. If so, then you are long way towards understanding what you need to know. A lot of the rates we use have been empirically found by lots of rallying experinence. So don't be afraid to go with what is known to work for rally. And the great thing about spring rates and free lengths with coilover suspensions is that you can start with a set of springs and then change them easily and pretty cheaply if you need to adjust them. Most of the cost is in the coilover structure and shock, not in the springs. So don't be overly concerned with the springs. Adjusting that in is more matter of time than money. The next thing to understand is why a damping rate is chosen, and what happens when it gets off. This can be found in engineering books describing either mechanical or electrical damped systems (late sophomore or early junior mech engineering or EE books). If you find some descriptions of damped systems and saw graphs of overdamped, underdamped, and critically damped motion or electrical response, then you would instantly understand the principal. Good spring and compression shock rate result in a slightly under critically damped response upon a landing form a jump, for example. Refer to this grpah from this Wikipedia page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_oscillator , which I have attached below. The red line, is the crtically damped response, for the factor mu=1. Once that is understood, then it is again back to empirical knowledge. What actual shock rate works best to get to this response is a matter of experience and field work. Additionally, differences in rebound and compresion damping rates, and why a ceratin rate works for given car front and rear (with weigth differences), is also moslty empirical in nature. At best, IMO, you can learn the underlying princles of damping as above, and then use that to make decisions on how to adjust if, for exmaple, you want to change wheel hop of small surface rocks. I would spend time trying to prise info from others on how they initially set and adjust their suspension and why, and the resulting changes. (This is kinda hard, admittedly, in the N.A. rally world, as we are so scattered.) A few points that might be worth considering and trying to understand: 1) Fixed damping rate shocks will have limits in how soft you can go on spring rates. A fixed rate shock suspension will become underdamped (an oscillatory boing after each bump) with too soft a spring (look at those diagrams for mu=2, and mu=6 for a broken shock valve). Going hard will not be ideal, but at least you will not 'boinging around'. 2) As for shock rates for rally relative to street, I would expect rally to be softer for ths simple fact that spring rates are lower. They go hand-in-hand to keep mu close to 1. 3) As for the differences in compression and rebound rates, just think about the differences in the way the suspension has to respond upon landing (compression rate controls the action) versus going light (going over a rise, where the rebound rate is the controlling factor). Upon landing, the shock has to control the suspended weight of the whole car as it tries to compress the suspension. On rebound, only the wheel and axle weights are working to extend the suspnsion length; a softer rebound rate is needed to allow this smaller weight to extend the suspension quickly to try to keep the tire in contact with the ground. 4) Once you accept that the shock rates have to be different between compression and rebound, then you realize that the spring rate can only be perfectly matched (mu =1) to one shock rate or the other to give a critically damped response. In reality, a compromise is needed between the 2. If you have adjustable damping rates, then know that getting the compression and rebound shocks rates further and further apart makes the spring selection, and thus the damping action, more and more of a suboptimum compromise. 5) One thing not yet mentioned: Different suspension rates (the time rate of the basic natrual oscillation of the suspension and mass) differs between front and rear is normal in passengar cars for good ride. I don't know if it is better to make the equal front and rear for rally use; that would be interesting to know. This is not normally discussed in suspension talk; I can't see where there is much you can do about the suspension rate as it mostly depends on the car's mass. So again, take the knowledge already there and go with it. So, other than experimentation, getting info from others on what works is the best way to get quickly to a good suspension setting and set-up. Understanding the principals of under-, over-, and critically damped system response will help understand what will happen when you start to adjust things. And....don't forget about suspension travel! Regards, Mark B. |
Pete Pete Remner Junior Moderator Location: Cleveland, Ohio Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 2,022 |
Reading that made me remember a bunch of stuff I learned playing with bikes, which was around the time full suspension was new and all sorts of goofy crap was on the market. Changing the rear spring rate would have a HUGE effect on the front end, stiffer spring made the front suspension move more since hitting a bump would pitch the bike and compress the front.
I think that's why street suspensions have deliberately different front/rear suspension frequencies, and then they fix the handling with sway bars. |
And here is a good discussion of the 'calculated' vs 'empirical' views.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=361956 Mark B. |
aj_johnson A.J. Johnson Godlike Moderator Location: Pendleton OR Join Date: 01/07/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 1,381 Rally Car: 88 Audi 80 |
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Mark a discussion which starts with a schmuck saying --for a 2100 lb car 650 lb/in front and 400 lb in rear is not a good discussion. It is idiots wanking all over their keyboards. 2100 lbs and maybe what/125 bhp..insanity. Absurd beginning, tainted fruit follows. |