Fuel Filter

I think this is one instance where the expensive fancy filters are worse than any stock setup. The filter capacity should be enough to go a whole season IMHO.

Stock Ford filter $9. Bracket and fittings $2 at U-pullit. Why haven't you done it yet?

I run dual filters on the Celica, first one catches crap that might end up in the tank, before it hits the high pressure pump. The other one is the factory Toyota EFI filter, big, metal, threaded fittings both ends. The only thing about it, I relocated to the side of the strut tower. Toyota though it was a good idea to bolt it to the side of the engine block, hidden under the intake manifold... What were they thinking!!

-Jon

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sidewaez

compared to....



seems to me the 40 micron filter will pick up a lot more, but also has a lot more surface area. They said to clean every 20K miles, but since its real easy to unscrew, I'll just check it every other event.


Other pics of the setup for shits and giggles.


mounted in the A/C compressor location



(fuel comes in through the filter, into the top of the 'T' out to both the left and right fuel rails, then back and into left/right side of the fuel regulator and out the bottom and back to the tank)

fuel rail is burried, but for the rear-most ends, I used 180 degree AN fittings to run all the lines in front/above the intake manifold, for easiest access.

That's a tiny, tiny filter. Throw it in the trash and put on a Bosch. The Bosch can catch the amount of dirt that clogged your tiny filter and you wouldn't even know about it.

Jon, your filter looks like an old Rochster carb internal filter. I wouldn't rely on that alone. Frequent changing or in a rush at service changing could result in that Oring failing also.

I would get that gage out of there. They are genenrally lightweight in construction and when that engine starts banging around in a rollover, it's too close and can get 'smooshed', with the result of gas everywhere. I see fule pressue gages in the engine compartment on occasion in tech, and almost always require them to be removed before passing tech. >95% of rally car fires start in the engine compartment for such reasons.

Regards,
Mark B.

A good example of factory equipment being better than...

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Doivi Clarkinen
That's a tiny, tiny filter. Throw it in the trash and put on a Bosch. The Bosch can catch the amount of dirt that clogged your tiny filter and you wouldn't even know about it.

Come on that's harshin his mellow dooooooood, why does it have to be like that.
You could be much niocer if you encourage people to make the right choices like this: Oh Jon, maybe you should plan on putting something in the shitcan: either that laughably small POS disaster of a filter. or plan on throwing the motor away"

Isn't choice always so much more pleasant?

here's one that popped up just yesterday: do you want me to paint the Opel blocks metallic purple on one and metallic green on the other, or JVABs patented Soooper Bitchin Green on both?
I thought maybe Soooper bitch Green on the block and metallic Green cam cover?

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heymagic
Jon, your filter looks like an old Rochster carb internal filter. I wouldn't rely on that alone. Frequent changing or in a rush at service changing could result in that Oring failing also.

it costs the same as the oem filter, so realistically, i'll just buy a new one every few events. I will check this one to see what its really doing with regards to how much it gets clogged up.... I mean, how much dirt do you guys run in your gasoline anyway? 2 events is about 300-500 miles including transits, right? averaging 10mpg that's 30-50 gallons, or 3-4 tanks of gas....if that filter is getting plugged up with only 4 tanks of gas, someone is dumping handfuls of dirt in my tank at each fill up!

Not trying to ignore good advice, but just balancing all my 'options'. If something just isn't working, I'll go back to the oem filter. I'll have run through 3 tanks of gas by the time I get re-tuned next week, so I'll check it then.


But thanks for all the input, I like hearing all the options....especially the old school stuff.


Good safety point on the gauge....easily removed and replaced with the plug that came with it. I needed it because I don't have any other kind of fuel pressure gauge and needed to set the PSI at idle to match my current map.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/08/2011 11:59AM by Jon Burke.

Maybe instead of removing the gauge and plugging the hole find a schrader valve and put in? That would allow easy checking of pressure and provide a fuel sample port there also.

It is nice to have a gage mounted on a hose that you can tape to the windshield for testing. Widebands are nice but they don't always tell the reason for being lean or rich. I just had an old Ford pu in the shop with really bad drivability. Too old for data stream so it was the old roll up yer sleeves deal. Turned out the regulator was dumping 80psi into the rail.

^^yeah, I should just buy a good fuel gauge and see what they've got for disconnect options.

It's not the dirty fuel usually, it is the non filtered air entering the tank through the vent system. How does your tank vent? through the stock carbon canister and canister vent filter assembly? If not, then that is where dirt will enter.

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Jon Burke

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heymagic
Jon, your filter looks like an old Rochster carb internal filter. I wouldn't rely on that alone. Frequent changing or in a rush at service changing could result in that Oring failing also.

it costs the same as the oem filter, so realistically, i'll just buy a new one every few events. I will check this one to see what its really doing with regards to how much it gets clogged up.... I mean, how much dirt do you guys run in your gasoline anyway? 2 events is about 300-500 miles including transits, right? averaging 10mpg that's 30-50 gallons, or 3-4 tanks of gas....if that filter is getting plugged up with only 4 tanks of gas, someone is dumping handfuls of dirt in my tank at each fill up!

Not trying to ignore good advice, but just balancing all my 'options'. If something just isn't working, I'll go back to the oem filter. I'll have run through 3 tanks of gas by the time I get re-tuned next week, so I'll check it then.


But thanks for all the input, I like hearing all the options....especially the old school stuff.


Good safety point on the gauge....easily removed and replaced with the plug that came with it. I needed it because I don't have any other kind of fuel pressure gauge and needed to set the PSI at idle to match my current map.

yeah, other than plugging up the evap line in the engine bay, the evap/vent canister in the rear is all stock and un-modded, and I wasn't really planning on messing with it.

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heymagic
Maybe instead of removing the gauge and plugging the hole find a schrader valve and put in? That would allow easy checking of pressure and provide a fuel sample port there also.

It is nice to have a gage mounted on a hose that you can tape to the windshield for testing. Widebands are nice but they don't always tell the reason for being lean or rich. I just had an old Ford pu in the shop with really bad drivability. Too old for data stream so it was the old roll up yer sleeves deal. Turned out the regulator was dumping 80psi into the rail.

That's a good solution, Gene. I always question what good is a fuel gage in the engine compartment; you can only see it at idle and while blipping the throttle by hand, but that's not really loading the engine. I have been guilty of driving along, with a fuel gage taped to the WS to see what is really going on with fuel pressure under driving load.

Thanks,
Mark B.

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starion887

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heymagic
Maybe instead of removing the gauge and plugging the hole find a schrader valve and put in? That would allow easy checking of pressure and provide a fuel sample port there also.

It is nice to have a gage mounted on a hose that you can tape to the windshield for testing. Widebands are nice but they don't always tell the reason for being lean or rich. I just had an old Ford pu in the shop with really bad drivability. Too old for data stream so it was the old roll up yer sleeves deal. Turned out the regulator was dumping 80psi into the rail.

That's a good solution, Gene. I always question what good is a fuel gage in the engine compartment; you can only see it at idle and while blipping the throttle by hand, but that's not really loading the engine. I have been guilty of driving along, with a fuel gage taped to the WS to see what is really going on with fuel pressure under driving load.

Thanks,
Mark B.

Dammit Mark, you trying to torpedo our fragile ecomonic recovery?
I mean I have no clue what the hell the stoooopid little widget guage in the engine compartment is good for either or spossed to do; it may its accurate maybe it hain't , but I think of a higher goal : America and all our prosperity!
I've seen a shit-ton of the filter an d gaugue things all over, clearly a beeeg 'Merikun Capitalist,, oh wait, an Entrepreneur! that's it a red blooded 'Merikun entrepreneur has been selling lots of these things to the urban hipster boys. Now i know YOU hain't urban hip and I know even with long hair and a CCP Militia hat with beautiful Red Star on that I hain't hip but we just don't get it!.

And for all we know, this could be the snowball that gets America rolling again!
So be patriotic, and let them buy gauges they never can see! One day, when they finaly decide they wanna see pressure under load, maybe they'll buy another and the "Engine Compartment Fuel Gauge Co" will make millions, then it'll trickle down to us.


That's what makes American Great! A whole lotta stuff trickling down from our Superiors!!