Caliper seized...maybe

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1fastben
Here's the handbrake plumb in/out:



And tomorrow I'll do a bench bleed on the master then re-install it and see what happens. (Yeah, I took it out, hoping to see if I could see the alleged seal that may or may not be the right direction. Didn't see it, it's buried inside.)

Er er um

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
1fastben
Here's the handbrake plumb in/out:



And tomorrow I'll do a bench bleed on the master then re-install it and see what happens. (Yeah, I took it out, hoping to see if I could see the alleged seal that may or may not be the right direction. Didn't see it, it's buried inside.)

Er er um

What he's trying to say is that you DID get it wrong... JVL tried to post and image - the tag is for it to appear, only it doesn't.
So let me try:

Thanks for the translation. Phooee, that sucks... whelp, back to bending brake lines then.

Hey, I fixed a couple of those year before last, same problem. People plumbed them wrong. LOOKs like it is correct but not.

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heymagic
Hey, I fixed a couple of those year before last, same problem. People plumbed them wrong. LOOKs like it is correct but not.

Yeah?
I watched Glenn Wallace piss away oh 2 1/2 quarts of some absurdly expensive brake fluid, a rroll of paper towels and 4 cans of brake clean do this...

As usual, all I could say was what is right, then (more or less) shrug...
As in What da fawk do I's nose?


(I do know where it goes in, and where it comes out. Yellow in front , brow...wait...nevermind.....

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Congratulations. You are now part of the 64% that plumb the handbrake backwards.

Is it mounted with the lines down? I doubt it will ever bleed right without a pressure bleed (and maybe not then). The outlet port needs to be 'up' (both ports in this case). Stop and ask yourself why a bleeder is on the top of a caliper or wheel cylinder.....(The only calipers that I have seen that have the bleed on the bottom are on some aircraft.)

Well put......"Er er um"

And now I am trying to figure out how the handbrake cylinder worked at all...????

BTW, if the calipers are old and came from a J-yard, I would not rally them without re-builds. Too much time and $$ invested to be knocked out of an event for something so easy on which to do a little PM.

Mark B.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/09/2011 07:16PM by starion887.

Well, that would explain why is still isn't working after I routed the lines correctly. It is mounted down, I figured it'd be safer from the lines getting smacked.

Ugh...guess I'll go buy more brake lines.

I'm about ready to throw a pick ax through this car, or myself, whichever. I'm so tired of wasting every night and not getting anywhere, it's so crushing! >

Quote
1fastben
Well, that would explain why is still isn't working after I routed the lines correctly. It is mounted down, I figured it'd be safer from the lines getting smacked.

Ugh...guess I'll go buy more brake lines.

I'm about ready to throw a pick ax through this car, or myself, whichever. I'm so tired of wasting every night and not getting anywhere, it's so crushing! >

But you will be glad you put the work and money ito it when you start to drive it again. i am rehabing an old escort GT from several owners. i have completed alot of work and i am still over whelmed with what i think should be done in the near future. i know the feeling when things seem not to go well, but everytime i watch some rally vids and start plugging away again.

C'mon, some handbrake stuff can't be crushing. You want crushing?
- My 1st rally entry was DNS when a piston scuffed while driving the car to the 1st event; had 1000+ mile so the engine. So why it did it then, I don't know. (Then the battery shorted internally overnight and almost burned the car up.)
- 2nd rally entry was DNS as we hit 15" in a sudden snow storm in SW VA, and got stopped.
- 3rd rally entry was DNS as I thought "Hey I'll put 50W racing oil in this hyar 'race car'." Oil pump never could suck it up and spun a rod bearing right in the carport.

Those 3 DNS's cost me about $450 in just entry fees back in '78-'79. That would be over $2k now....and I was a college student then. But the 4th entry happened (tho' the guy helping me tow to the event came about 1' from destroying the whole rig on the way out! Man, that was scary!), and we finished dead last, behind a 67' Dodge Dart with 170 ci 6 cyl engine and drum brakes.....! BUT>>>>>

IT WAS ALL WORTH IT SO HANG IN THERE!

Good luck,
Mark B.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2011 06:25PM by starion887.

I flipped the handbrake MC over and it's still doing the same thing, but at least it's plumbed correctly now. So the only two options I have left is either A) It's the brake MC, or it's this splitter that I plugged the rear lines off of. By which I mean, since I rerouted the rear lines, that portion of the splitter served no purpose, but the remaining part for splitting off the fronts still does, so I welded the brake fittings closed on the two lines that used to lead out to the back, then screwed them back in to the splitter. Those now-plugged fittings are on the sides of the splitter, btw.

Anyway, I picked up a new MC from an import parts store that I frequent here for pretty cheap, (they've got like 7 more in stock, I think I'm one of two 210 owners in UT, and just want to get rid of them), so I'll swap that out tomorrow, and re-bleed. If it's still acting up, then at least I have a spare MC, the way I look at it.

Splitter? Are you talking about the proportioning valve?

Yeah, that thingy.

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1fastben
Yeah, that thingy.

Bypass that thing, just do a break in the line, use 'Merikanskij inverted flare union (69 cents) and eliminate it---if you need to T to left and right on the front, use a plain 'Merikanskij inverted flare T. Then one line from Master to handbrake, one line handbrake to firewall or where ever you want to place the rear T.

Anything not needed, get rid of it. (the Xratties have some dumb POS thing up front with some steel cock and bull ball thing---you pull it off and use it as a wheel chock)

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Ya, that prop valve could be giving you all sorts of grief. It's meant to have a certain amount of pressure on both sides of the divider. There are springs and valves in there, you may have an air bubble in there screwing stuff up. As JV said , get rid of it completely.