seems like duratec 20 engines are considerably cheaper than the 23 but the 23 will likely be worth. ill see what my budget ends up as.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2011 06:37PM by Gravity Fed.

Hit up car-part and somehow they are not listing the Duratec for the Ranger. 140ci engine not 138ci.

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Gravity Fed
i have no idea how i would get 220hp out of the duratec, im guessing $$.

Cams that lift the valves 10mm will flow air for 220.
Clean up with sanding rolls the short side radius and 10mm lift will flow for 230 Beee Haitch Peas...

So a pair of cams.

And probably rods and pistons if you like the internal to remain internal.

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At this point, it just needs to run (and seemingly that would be same output the 12a streetport had). Id love to know the difference between the "NS" and "EW" engines.

NS must mean Not Safe, or no shit sherlock, and the EW just sounds icky...

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The VVT equipped models would be nice

,
Really? Sounds bad to me: one more thing done to meet emissions standard for new car sales, one more thing you have to fawk with and one more thing that will cause problems when it doesn't work right....

Rally tip: simple is always better than trick shit because simple is easier to make work. And orking simple shit is doubtless better than not working trick shit.

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And thus far i haven't found any cheap Duratec 23s. All around the 900-1200 range from junkyards. Ill keep an eye on craigslist.

Yeah, William got one for free, I paid 200 for a good (one rod bearing beginning to puke) 2300, and we just picked up another for $200 including flywheel and clutch. Gotta keep the eyes open.
2003
Engine
Ford Ranger 9E0647 $595 A-1 Light Truck USA-OR(Portland) E-mail 1-800-735-3429 131
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Engine
Mazda Pickup Not Rotary B2300 2.3, FI, 5SPD, RWD, GOOD 119,176 A 03MZ03 $550 Rose Auto Wrecking, Inc. USA-OR(Portland) Request_Quote 1-800-452-0760 Request_Insurance_Quote
133
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2003
Engine
Ford Ranger CORE LOW COMPS 272,121 C 6001 $300 Atlas Towing Service Inc. USA-NV(Battle-Mountain) E-mail 775-635-2112 543
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2003
Engine
Ford Ranger 2.3L (VIN D, 8th digit, 4-140) 196,000 B 3N0709 $Call Pick A Part, Turner - PAR Member USA-OR(Turner) Request_Quote 1-888-877-6080 Request_Insurance_Quote
188
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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

thats from car-part.com? Hell thats a good way to go

Get the 2.3L out of one of the trucks. Several advantages here. It is already set for longitudinal arrangement which will save some intake manifold and water outlet headaches. You also do not have the balance shaft assembly in the oil pan or the gear on the crank. Makes the crank lighter and the motor rev a little faster. Although a lighter flywheel will help more with that.

Only problem with the 2.3L is that it only had a short run in production, I think 3-4 years. Ford and Mazda have dropped the 2.3L in favor of the 2.5L that is in just about everything. So if you want big cubes you could look for 2.5L to bolt in there.

That being said I happily swapped one into my rally focus this year and it has been a beast, lots of torque and pulls hard until the rev limiter cuts off the fun. I did install one of the trick Cosworth intake manifolds which helps the top end. Those manifolds would be hard to use in a RWD format since the TB will be pointed right at the Firewall.

There are no markings on the valve cover, The only difference is if you get a plastic one or an aluminum one. There are difference between the Mazda and Ford blocks, heck some of the Ford blocks are different from each other depending on where they were cast. The differences are not really around what matters, some blocks have more bosses on them for bolting accessories on to them in different markets that Ford sells the engine in.

Be careful with the newer 2.0L motors as Ford and likely Mazda as well has changed the head in the last couple of years for emissions or some other reason that has made a lot of the cams and other go fast bits not fit the motor.

Now which generation RX-7 do you have? Are you sure there is enough room for a 2.3L under the hood? The motor is physically large and quite tall compared to the 2.0L Zetec that it replaced in the focus. I would be concerned you would have to run a big hood scoop or lean the motor way over to fit it under the hood of the RX. Might be worth measuring and factoring into your costs before buying a motor.

Good point on height..

As for short run, they began in 2001 pick ups---
when did they stop with Duratec in pick ups?

Wiki seems to indicate they are still current in some things:
The 23NS is built in Dearborn, Michigan for the Ford Ranger and North American market Mazda B-Series. These engines are tuned for torque-bias making them suitable for light-truck use and are not equipped with VVT or VICS. Output is 143 hp (107 kW) at 5250 rpm with 154 ft·lbf (209 N·m) of torque at 3750 rpm.

Applications:

* 23EW — FWD/AWD
o 2003–2007 Ford Focus
o 2005–2008 Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute[citation needed]
o 2005–2009 Ford Fusion

* 23NS — RWD
o 2001– Ford Ranger
o 2001– Mazda B-Series[citation needed]

EW means East West
NS is oddly North South

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

1982 model year rx7. I have seen 2.3 Lima blocks fit with no issues.

It's unfortunate that the Endyn site is gone. There was a shop somewhere in corn country that was playing with Duratecs for midget racing. What they found was by going to stacks injection (big independent throttles), a decent header, and 12:1 compression, they could squeak about 250hp from the buggers with stock ports and cams. Flat power from just under 6000 to over 8000. Change cams and they'd get 300, still on stock ports.

I wanna see for *myself*. These ITB bits I've been acquiring for VW engines will work even better on a Duratec. Although, looking at the port sizes of these things, 48mm might be a restriction and 52mm might be a better size. The ports are HUGE.

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Pete
It's unfortunate that the Endyn site is gone. There was a shop somewhere in corn country that was playing with Duratecs for midget racing. What they found was by going to stacks injection (big independent throttles), a decent header, and 12:1 compression, they could squeak about 250hp from the buggers with stock ports and cams. Flat power from just under 6000 to over 8000. Change cams and they'd get 300, still on stock ports.

I wanna see for *myself*. These ITB bits I've been acquiring for VW engines will work even better on a Duratec. Although, looking at the port sizes of these things, 48mm might be a restriction and 52mm might be a better size. The ports are HUGE.

Endyn makes quite a lot of claims which seem pretty "unbelievable" or as one person in a place manufacturing a good portion of the engine internals of the top Nascar teams said (in reference to some piston crown idea Endyn was caliming crazy stuff about) "sounds like snake oil" and "you'd think you might see something like that out there is there were even minimal gains, those guys will try anything for an advantage, and i haven't heard anything" and he should be in a position to know.
I conclude Endyn, who was one guy in his garage in Texas, to be living up to what Texas is notorious for: piling bullshit 6 foot high.
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The ports are larger than a YB stock but if you want to see huge, look at 4G62 Misterbitchy. They look 'nicely large' for a good n.a. motor to me.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

So height shouldn't be a concern. Now I'm just trying to sell parts and find myself the righ deal for an engine. Id like to get one in my hands by early august so I can start playing mock up and figure out the bellhousing

Just curious. Why? What's wrong with the rotary in there?

Note that this wasn't Endyn's work, this was a shop out of the Midwest that one of the members of the forum was relating info to. The whole forum's just *gone*, no archives no nothin', so I can't find the name of the place. I'd like to say they were in Kansas or Minnesota.

motor ate a screw from the carb

How did that happen? Didn't it have to jump a 2" high horn to get down into the carb?

it was actually the screws for the horn. i just have bad luck i suppose.