Poll

What motor mounts do you prefer?

Only registered users are allowed to vote for this poll.
13 votes were received.

Poly urethane	7		54%
Rubber	5		38%
Solid	1		8%

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I want to fab up some motor mounts on the new shell, and want to use some round tube/sleeve style mounts. After seeing what happened to the Hasport poly mounts in Brians Civic, I am leery of using urethane.

What have you used, how did they hold up, and where did you get them.

I am thinking of using a round press in suspension bushing from something.

Quote
phlat65
I want to fab up some motor mounts on the new shell, and want to use some round tube/sleeve style mounts. After seeing what happened to the Hasport poly mounts in Brians Civic, I am leery of using urethane.

What have you used, how did they hold up, and where did you get them.

I am thinking of using a round press in suspension bushing from something.

Quinton Hazell Pn blah blah
Escort MkII and MkIII van front leaf spring eyelet bush...

Only have one.
You have fambly in the old country and they can get these at any Motor Factor for aroun 4.75 squids each. Or 6.50, but cheap. Work good, last forever.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

To confuse the matters more, there are different durometer of rubber you can get. Poly can be too brittle (as you mentioned) and oem rubber can be too soft. When I have built for desert or crawlers, ruffstuff.com and polyperformance.com had pretty good selection of bushings for fabbing.

I'm using nylon rod that I turn on my lathe. VERY stiff

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Brgrds
Brian

We're talking motor mounts right? Why not solid?

The chump car has seen nearly 40 hours of track time on it's hockey puck mounts and not a hint of trouble. I think doing this on the chump kind of started out tongue in cheek but they have worked great.

Quote
vbares
We're talking motor mounts right? Why not solid?

Why solid?
Why some isolation?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

two schools of thought: with solid, you never have to worry about wearing our motor/tranny mounts. with, rubber or similiar, you isolate NVH from the cabin (something we don't really care about), but also, the mounts will absorb driveline shock and save that shock from fatigueing bellhousings and engine castings from cracks and failures. I have seen (in different motorsports) cracked bellhousings, cracked block mounting ears, and broken transfer cases because of no "give" to absorb driveline shocks of sudden high traction after jumps, etc.

Quote
SeanP
two schools of thought: with solid, you never have to worry about wearing our motor/tranny mounts. with, rubber or similiar, you isolate NVH from the cabin (something we don't really care about), but also, the mounts will absorb driveline shock and save that shock from fatigueing bellhousings and engine castings from cracks and failures. I have seen (in different motorsports) cracked bellhousings, cracked block mounting ears, and broken transfer cases because of no "give" to absorb driveline shocks of sudden high traction after jumps, etc.

Missed the vital one for little buzzy cars made of folded over stamped sheet metal: cracks, failures and tears to the bodyshell.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
SeanP
To confuse the matters more, there are different durometer of rubber you can get. Poly can be too brittle (as you mentioned) and oem rubber can be too soft. When I have built for desert or crawlers, ruffstuff.com and polyperformance.com had pretty good selection of bushings for fabbing.

Actually have the Ruffstuf site bookmarked, but they are still poly

call up dan there. He either has them or can point you in the right direction. Good guy.

Quote
phlat65

Quote
SeanP
To confuse the matters more, there are different durometer of rubber you can get. Poly can be too brittle (as you mentioned) and oem rubber can be too soft. When I have built for desert or crawlers, ruffstuff.com and polyperformance.com had pretty good selection of bushings for fabbing.

Actually have the Ruffstuf site bookmarked, but they are still poly

There's all kinds of poly, and obiously there's all kinds of duro-meters for it too.
There's polyurethane CV boots and there's hard, rigid bar as tough as good bushing broze.
Poly ain't the problem, its is it virgin poly, is it full of color stuff that makes it stupid (Kawasaki's fixation with their nice Soooper Bitchin Green caused them all kinds of problems when plastic fenders and tanks became the norm, and I spoke at leangth to "Rancho Suspension" years ago when clearing out some left over wharehouse stock and they guy agreed that trick colors cause them problems with durability.)

Here's the PN for the ideal thing: 75AB5781BA and Finis Code 6045486

Hereit is one place:

http://www.autosuppliers.co.uk/
http://www.autosuppliers.co.uk/pdf/automotive_parts/Ford.pdf

There's more

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I like my Chuck ones.

Quote
NoCoast
I like my Chuck ones.

Well I like my ChuckW ones more than you like your chuck W ones, so there.
I like them on my street car.

Sean Rock Auto, QUINTON HAZELL EMS1554
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Price
KLARIUS/QUINTON HAZELL Part # EMS1554
Category: Control Arm Bushing

$5.86
Add to Cart

Ship to a UK addy and mail 'em. I want several myself...

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Solid! just think of all the weight you'll save by not having to run ground cables to the engine!