Need coilovers for Audi 90 rally build. Please help!

A4's are multi-link, pretty neat suspension as the travel does not alter wheel alignment.

A much simpler boinger design than the older models pictured above.

Jvab suspenders I can vouch for - the landing from the picture above was incredibly soft and controlled.

For rally-x they'll more than do the job -

I'd stay away from that JVAB shit and go with a set of DMS, Hotbits, Tein, or KSport.

Just my .02

Quote
wvonkessler
I'd stay away from that JVAB shit and go with a set of DamnedMightySpensive, Hotbitches, Teenie, or Que?Sport.

Just my .02

Probably right, at least those other things aren't green.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I'm just glad DMS Hotbits et all are willing to spend so much time on the phone. Can't keep that JVAB guy on the line.

Quote
DriverJGits
I am slowly starting my 93' Audi 90 2.8 Quattro rally build. Just finished testing my new purchase at the WDCR SCCA rallycross at Summit Point motorsports park. I competed in the stock awd class and did ok but had a lot of trouble with getting front end traction, which I found odd cuz there is a lot of weight on the nose, now a lot of that can be attributed to regular old street tires, but my shocks are definitely dead. I really feel like I am looking for a suspension that is fairly stiff and gives me the ability to tune my dampening and ride height like I had in my drift car. I have done weeks of searching on the internet and have found nothing in the way of suspension parts especially coilovers, so please help me! does anyone out there know someone who can make a custom set for my Raudi Rally car.

Jordan, I was at the rallyx this weekend in the brown avant but didn't get a chance to talk with you.

I think for rallyx, a set of Bilstein HDs and a bigger (or doubled) rear sway bar would do you some good. FOr stage rally I would first suggest a different car but if you must use the Audi, go with the JVABs (from John VanLandingham here on Rally Anarchy) and up the spring rates, remove the front sway bar and add a bigger rear one.

The Audi will always understeer without a lovingly hateful driving style that takes some practice and is a bit counter-intuitive. They seem to drive best in the dirt with good meaty snow tires on the front and 1/2 worn street tires in the rear. Swap the tires above front to rear to achieve the same balance on tarmac :-)

Don't use the diff lock if you are trying to go fast....And of course, disable the ABS.

The beautiful thing about the nose-heavy beast is that if you can get it to slow down at just the right time it really will pirouette about the center of the dashboard if you want it to. Getting the timing right is the trick, and doing it on loose surfaces means setting up WAY ahead of time.

The bad thing about the nose-heavy beast is that if you don't setup for a turn with enough advance, you just have to wait and hope that it eventually turns before you hit something or go off. There is no forcing it after the fact.

Other tips are best learned in person with gravel and gusto...

Thanks for all the great responses guy's, especially you Josh (huge help!), I would love to talk some more about setup and driving techniques for this german tank.

John from JVAB, I'm sorry I didn't mean to seem like an idiot, I have googled your coilovers and even found that you did some for an Audi. I just didn't know if I was missing something when it came your company having a website or how to get into contact with you, I am very interested in your coilovers.

I know I have a lot to learn so I will continue to ask "dumb" questions and appear oblivious cuz I know there is a wealth of info out there. I even believe that with enough knowledge, a newb like me can rally a 18 year old Audi.

I drove one of those audi's at a rally cross, struggled to get it to rotate as was stated. I hopped in a stock Corolla and went 5 seconds faster.

We willl talk you through what ever build you want, but we will still point out that you can do better...

Quote
phlat65
I drove one of those audi's at a rally cross, struggled to get it to rotate as was stated. I hopped in a stock Corolla and went 5 seconds faster.

We willl talk you through what ever build you want, but we will still point out that you can do better...

Well that's obvious.
I still don't understand after all these years how people don't understand that they NEED SIMPLE EASY UNCOMPLICATED and relatively LIGHT cars.

Simple cars that there's a way to make them stronger.
Stronger parts that a normal hoooman Bean can actually afford..

I don't understand....

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

An inexperienced driver will never make an ill-handling car go fast.

If you race your daily driver you'll never commit like you should or you're walking to work on Monday...and then you'll be looking for another car to drive to work.

Race the easiest, cheapest to repair car you can find. Once the initial eduction curve isn't a straight vertical line you can look to racing something complicated, expensive and handicapped.

As to RallyX type stuff...we bought a $200 , 300klik 1983 Camry, 2.0 4 cyl, AT, Canuckdian car, massive rust, no US paper work, sitting on the back row of a car lot down here. Trailered it straight to the RX and proceeded to beat every car with the exception of one very well driven 2.5rs..every car...AWD, turbo, even caged rally cars. This was driven by my 18 year old son. Stock suspension, stock tires, I did have to remove the air filter element as it was so nasty the car wouldn't idle after a while. Massive fun, virtually no expense. Everyone started calling it the Scamry because it dominated the field. Raced it all summer and sold it for $100 to someone needing parts for their old Camry.

I then went down to the local impound yard and they 'loaned' me a Mazda 323 4dr that had been there forever. 1.6 4sp 4 door. I drove it 15miles to the RX and proceeded to beat all the 2wds except my kids Scamry, and I did manage the fastest single run. however (old age and treachery). Ran 2 wekends and gave the Mazda back.

Moral to story..don't race your daily driver, don't handicap yourself with a dead end build. You weren't born with the Audi so at some point you didn't have it so return to that point and get something suitable or better yet get a cheap POS and have fun.

...and buy JVAB suspension...

Quote
DriverJGits
Thanks for all the great responses guy's, especially you Josh (huge help!), I would love to talk some more about setup and driving techniques for this german tank.

Jordan, please note that I don't think that your Audi could ever be competitive fast even if you dumped 5k or 10k in the suspension. BUT, they can be a lot of fun to drive---never fast in the turns, but fun and moderately paced in the turns.

Quote
xman

Quote
A1337STI
You're reading the rules now?

I see a difference between reading the rules while still practicing some discretion that has been accepted by fellow competitors vs. a fanatical adherence to the letter of the code to the nth degree (cone dodger style). Open light is a much better class for me that Production/CRS-GT was.

The rule from the RA 2011 rulebook:

"10.2.A.10 Open Light Class: Vehicles must be AWD, normally-aspirated and derived from models sold globally in minimum quantities of 1000. The maximum displacement is 2650cc for overhead cam engines and 3313cc for pushrod engines."

I rounded down to 2.5L, the extra displacement is enough for a rehoning/overbore, but not enough for meaningful stroking (that's what she said).

But yeah, I think a 2.8L audi engine is going to be a tough sell to fellow competitors in OL.

NASA will let you run OAL (Open AWD Light) with a bigger motor than 2.65L, there are just minimum weights published based on a similar formula for adjusted displacement. I'm sure the Audi would have no problem making weight. lol

In general - Our WDCR events at Summit Point are a little more demanding than grass-o-cross. I'm sure a few others here can attest to that. We also have at least 1 driver/car in each AWD class that could compete at Nationals.

Jordan - others have given you some great info specific to the Audi in a variety of price ranges. You certainly wouldn't be the first one to rally a newer Audi, but it wouldn't be my choice for an Open Light car.

Mine, before I decided that I had enough time to tear it apart.

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?t=1825

Another audi 90 that was rallied up in canada. Interesting to read my old comments from that thread also explains why I have so many parts. Geesh, been trying to start a rally project car for 6 years now.
Pics from the first page or two don't work but the rest do.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/21/2011 12:04PM by aj_johnson.

They can be fun in the snowocross too. My 80 before I moved to the land of sunshine & bikinis. Beat everyone but Zimmer in his stage rally car that day at Perry's Park.... I bought it for $800 (I think) and sold it for $1000. Didn't put more than gas & oil into it.



Keep the audi and build something a $400 car that has more/cheaper potential.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/21/2011 03:10PM by xman.

Quote
xman


Keep the audi

and build something a $400 car that has more/cheaper potential.

Would suggest a Volvo 240?
Or an Xratty?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Would suggest a Volvo 240?
Or an Xratty?

There are no good Xratties inthis part of the world.

Annapolis MD might be the home of some Volvos and old Bimmers though... Still waiting to be convinced that RWD is the best choice if you want to be competitive in US rally.---Though he does have experience in drifting.

There is a guy in Richmond (Richwhat!!) VA that does Volvos and is on here right?

And someone in PA that had their Volvo done at Eric Langbein's shop in Annapolis too...