well I decided to go ahead and do it I am going to try to find a master I was thinking about using a clutch master any idea on what bore size to use? I assume I will have to buy a couple of residual check valves to put in the lines to the front brakes?

Just buy a willwood master, they are only $50 or so. No need for check valves if plumbed properly.
Size depends on handle length, handle ratio, ect.

I'm confused on how running a stand alone master with it's own reservoir won't require some special plumbing/check valves, unless you were running a second set of calipers (did I miss that?). It seems to me that as soon as brake pressure is applied from the pedal, the fluid would be forced up into the reservoir and overflow it. Am I missing something here?
The CNC inline brake makes perfect sense to me, and it works in my car. It was cheap in the grand scheme of things and did I mention that it works?

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Robert Culbertson
I'm confused on how running a stand alone master with it's own reservoir won't require some special plumbing/check valves, unless you were running a second set of calipers (did I miss that?). It seems to me that as soon as brake pressure is applied from the pedal, the fluid would be forced up into the reservoir and overflow it. Am I missing something here?
The CNC inline brake makes perfect sense to me, and it works in my car. It was cheap in the grand scheme of things and did I mention that it works?

You plumb the master cylinder in line, not parallel. So the line coming from the foot brakes goes on the feed port for the handbrake master. No need to use a dedicated reservoir for the handbrake.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2011 02:33PM by Cosworth.

So basically the exact same setup that CNC uses, got it. When I was thinking master cylinder, I kept on think w/ external reservoirs.

so what keeps the fronts from being applied I assume the roos are diagonaly split brake sys?

Yes, no diagonally split systems. Line from foot master to hand brake master in, hand brake master out to "T" fitting, to each rear brake whatever.

for the dozen times a year I need to lock up the rear wheels I use a reverse action OEM handbrake. Pull up no ratchet and rear shoes are engaged, hold button to lock it up. I think it was done by VT-car. AKA the drfter special

so why does the smaller diameter resiouver work so much better?

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Gravity Fed
so why does the smaller diameter reservoir work so much better?

Que?
Youse means small diameter cylinder ID?
Whatchyoo talkin bout?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Simple hydraulics man. Smaller cylinder has to move more do displace the same fluid, more movement for the same work performed = more mechanical advantage.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Gravity Fed
so why does the smaller diameter reservoir work so much better?

Que?
Youse means small diameter cylinder ID?
Whatchyoo talkin bout?

yea i meant diameter. My brain is off.

Quote
Gravity Fed

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Gravity Fed
so why does the smaller diameter reservoir work so much better?

Que?
Youse means small diameter cylinder ID?
Whatchyoo talkin bout?

yea i meant diameter. My brain is off.

ratios mang, ratios. say it's 1 cm² at the master. and say brake caliper is 10 cm², you yank lever with 10kg force on that 1 cm.

Youse gots 10kg/cm² at the caliper, but youse gotz 10x 1cm² EACH with 10kg.

ratios of master cm^@2 to caliper cm².

We are trying to LOCK the wheels with reasonable arm effort afterall you we want a big hydraulic ratio, and a "OK" mechanical advantage.

Claro, muchachito?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

makes sense.