Brake lines exterior to interior

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Racinkid13
Noob question.

Im removing the old lines. Planing out a route inside, through and back out.

I got to thinking. And Stumped myself.

When running a 2-1 T, do I need to up the dia for the single line?

Part of my brain said yes since Im running 2 into one. The other part said no cause it would seem to cause problems with pressure.

Im currently running Google and coming up with a whole lot of donuts.

No, 3/16" everywhere is the norm...

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Racinkid13
Noob question.

Im removing the old lines. Planing out a route inside, through and back out.

I got to thinking. And Stumped myself.

When running a 2-1 T, do I need to up the dia for the single line?

Part of my brain said yes since Im running 2 into one. The other part said no cause it would seem to cause problems with pressure.

Im currently running Google and coming up with a whole lot of donuts.

No, 3/16" everywhere is the norm...

thanks.

in reading thru a bunch of "self tech" articles on running lines, i saw this.

"Minimum bend radius - Rule of thumb, the minimum bend diameter for 3/16" line is 4" and for ¼" line is 6.5" diameter. "

I only saw this mentions once out of the 6 or so articles I skimmed thru.

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Racinkid13

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Racinkid13
Noob question.

Im removing the old lines. Planing out a route inside, through and back out.

I got to thinking. And Stumped myself.

When running a 2-1 T, do I need to up the dia for the single line?

Part of my brain said yes since Im running 2 into one. The other part said no cause it would seem to cause problems with pressure.

Im currently running Google and coming up with a whole lot of donuts.

No, 3/16" everywhere is the norm...

thanks.

in reading thru a bunch of "self tech" articles on running lines, i saw this.

"Minimum bend radius - Rule of thumb, the minimum bend diameter for 3/16" line is 4" and for ¼" line is 6.5" diameter. "

I only saw this mentions once out of the 6 or so articles I skimmed thru.

I know you're being safe but you have and have had a million clues right on every car or truck you've ever looked at. Many have same circuit layout and have Ts and that can be a guide, too.

Wonder where they got that 4" bend radius, I have seen 2" on all kinds of things, and LOTS of 3" and less.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
thanks.

in reading thru a bunch of "self tech" articles on running lines, i saw this.

"Minimum bend radius - Rule of thumb, the minimum bend diameter for 3/16" line is 4" and for ¼" line is 6.5" diameter. "

I only saw this mentions once out of the 6 or so articles I skimmed thru.

I know you're being safe but you have and have had a million clues right on every car or truck you've ever looked at. Many have same circuit layout and have Ts and that can be a guide, too.

Wonder where they got that 4" bend radius, I have seen 2" on all kinds of things, and LOTS of 3" and less.[/quote]

Like I said, only saw that mentioned once. Just wanted someone elses take on that. I didnt understand the minimum aspect.

Found an article saying to use thin rod to lay out the general shape and match. Simple idea i probably wouldnt have thought of honestly.

Think Im going to run into a prob where it drops from the body to the rear arm. Goes from hard to flex to hard back to flex.

I see the reasoning for this, but could I just keep it flex from the body to the caliper? seeing that theres enough slack for movement yet secured to the arm. I know I have to keep in mind that the "bubble" of movement needs to be clear.

Well, wait. Originally it was hard to flex to hard. The rear caliper kit came with a flex extension.

move the hard line endpoint to the wheel well (so the shock protects it from flat tires).

My old car had the hard line running down the axle arm, I almost lost it a couple times running on flat tires, and did lose it a couple times when the gravel spray under the car wore through the flex line between the shell and the axle.

As far as bending up the lines, make your self a couple of test bends in a few angles, like 30 45, 90 ect, and mark them and measure how far from you mark the end of the bend, then you can get very close to prefect with just a tape measure, and some patience.

As far as radius, if your bender has a 2" circle die, and it does not kink the tube, then sweet. You can bend soft steel tube pretty tight, but alluminum tube needs more care, and a larger radius to avoid cracking

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fliz
move the hard line endpoint to the wheel well (so the shock protects it from flat tires).

My old car had the hard line running down the axle arm, I almost lost it a couple times running on flat tires, and did lose it a couple times when the gravel spray under the car wore through the flex line between the shell and the axle.

maybe something like so? tucked back in the crevace?

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/racinkid13/Jackalope/brakelinerun.jpg

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Racinkid13

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fliz
move the hard line endpoint to the wheel well (so the shock protects it from flat tires).

My old car had the hard line running down the axle arm, I almost lost it a couple times running on flat tires, and did lose it a couple times when the gravel spray under the car wore through the flex line between the shell and the axle.

maybe something like so? tucked back in the crevace?

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/racinkid13/Jackalope/brakelinerun.jpg

How about easy access bulkhead fitting then short flexie hose to hard line along the very top of the beam to short flexie hose to caliper (so you can bang in pads when those postage stamp sized things wear out).

If you reach the top of the beam you have very serious problems.

If you mounted up nice strong Volvo 240 calipers you could skip the last flex hose to caliper since the pads load from the rear...and the inlet into the caliper faces forward so hard line direct into the most protected place possible.....

Naturally that would mean all hydraulic hand brakes---and ditching the horrid VW "two hands on the lever, and both feet braced on the dash and it still is crap" things you have.

The Volvo 240 is my default caliper choice. 38mm pistons, good sized pads and big choice of pad compounds. Strong, and cheap at the Rally Parts Storage Depots cynically referred to as "junk yards".

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

nevermind.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2012 11:40AM by Racinkid13.