http://www.lowbucktools.com/notcher.html

I've used the HF version of the drill/hole saw notchers. They were kind of a pain to use, I suspect the JD/Pro-tools versions of those would work a little better, but I don't know if it would be enough to be worth the $$ for them.

I like the idea of a shear for this. Wouldn't do anything over .134" (my jeep control arms are .25", but I don't plan on building another set for a while.. a long long while...)...

They work pretty good. I bought one 20 years ago or so. Built a lot of cages with it, all MIG'd.

For TIG, a hole-saw style cutter is the way to go.

If I'm doing a cage it'll be mig'd. I'm getting better with TIG, but I've yet to weld out of position with it, not 100% sure I have the coordination to ly in a car, one hand on a welder, the other on the wire, and something else running the foot thingie..

Do the hole saw ones work better on .095? Most of my exp with them has been on .120+

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alosix
Do the hole saw ones work better on .095? Most of my exp with them has been on .120+

What works for me is a very slow-speed drill (high rpm just overheats the saw), a carbide-tipped hole saw, and liberal application of a good cutting oil. Effortless, and very clean cuts. Plus the saws last forever unless you do something silly with them.

I just checked, and I've got a Makita drill on my hole saw cutter, max 550 rpms. Lots of torque! The hole saw notcher I'm using is from Pro-Tools.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2011 06:21PM by Ascona73.

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alosix
If I'm doing a cage it'll be mig'd. I'm getting better with TIG, but I've yet to weld out of position with it, not 100% sure I have the coordination to ly in a car, one hand on a welder, the other on the wire, and something else running the foot thingie..

You use a different torch with a finger trigger on it. Makes welding while lying on your back much easier.

I know a guy that will sell you his. He doesn't like it.

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modernbeat

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alosix
If I'm doing a cage it'll be mig'd. I'm getting better with TIG, but I've yet to weld out of position with it, not 100% sure I have the coordination to ly in a car, one hand on a welder, the other on the wire, and something else running the foot thingie..

You use a different torch with a finger trigger on it. Makes welding while lying on your back much easier.

Couldn't you maybe duct-tape the whole pedal assembly to your work-boot and when you're on your back just brace your foot---and attached pedal to the car?
It'd be the same thing.
Sorta

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I just put the pedal between my knees and squeeze away. The finger operated torches are neat, and you can also get a remote that mounts to the torch (much cheaper). You can also set it up for strike/lift arc if you feel like more of a challenge.

How does that notcher work? Just nibbles off the end?

I have a JD2 one on the way.

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Robert Culbertson
I just put the pedal between my knees and squeeze away. The finger operated torches are neat, and you can also get a remote that mounts to the torch (much cheaper). You can also set it up for strike/lift arc if you feel like more of a challenge.

Thigh Master...

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heymagic

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Robert Culbertson
I just put the pedal between my knees and squeeze away. The finger operated torches are neat, and you can also get a remote that mounts to the torch (much cheaper). You can also set it up for strike/lift arc if you feel like more of a challenge.

Thigh Master...

Gotta impress the ladies somehow, and for my next trick....

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Robert Culbertson
I just put the pedal between my knees and squeeze away. The finger operated torches are neat, and you can also get a remote that mounts to the torch (much cheaper). You can also set it up for strike/lift arc if you feel like more of a challenge.

lol, thats what i did, you put it between my knee and the shell, etc.

We have a finger slider thing (think mini tank track) but I have little girly hands so its hard for me to use haha.

My JD2 notcher showed up last night. Works great! PB Blaster has an aerosol cutting lube on the market that I used and seems to go great. Two 10 degree or so notches and saw looks brand new. I bought three different brands so will be able to assess to some extent which one lasts longest.

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NoCoast
My JD2 notcher showed up last night. Works great! PB Blaster has an aerosol cutting lube on the market that I used and seems to go great. Two 10 degree or so notches and saw looks brand new. I bought three different brands so will be able to assess to some extent which one lasts longest.

So.. which JD2 notcher are you working with? I'd be tempted to go with the 'notchmaster' . There is also this available for it
http://www.swagoffroad.com/Reacharound_JD2_Notchmaster.html which looks handy.


One of my best buds spent a lot of time at Dewalt/Black and Decker (now stanley...) breaking tools for a living. The blades that they found lasted the longest were normally from here :http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?productId=BimetalHolesaws

I've been using them for my recip and they really do last a hell of a lot longer than anything else on the shelf at lowes. For the price they'd better ..

Yeah. Notchmaster. I had one of the Harbor Freight ones but wasn't too stoked on it. Never used it, but seemed like the flimsy-ness of it would lead to excessive saw use. And one thing I've learned from using hole saws is that movement is what chews through the saw.