One of the problems I had with my piss poor driving last year was sliding the car into berms, etc and knocking the camber out. What I would like to do is to get the car aligned and weld on some "half moons" around the strut bolts to keep them locked into position.

Is this a fab part I can source or do I have draw this up and burn some myself?

got any pics of the offending area?

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This isn't floor mat anarchy

i assume the bolt holes on your struts are slotted?

Just use some washers?

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Chris

I have slotted a LOT of upper holes for boys and at least on VW with the fine thread M12 and those Subies with the BIG M14 fine thread, if torqued up to spec, nothing is moving.

Maybe better bolts and a bigger breaker bar.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

The problem with welding those bits on is that if you tap something at an event, being able to freely rotate the bolt could allow you to get back to normalish camber to finish the event.

Ohlins has some really nice machined offset washers that come with their stuff. IIRC they have 4-5 sets of varying offsets and you can flip them two ways, so you've got 9 or 11 combinations to use (the one that's centered doesn't do much if its flipped around). Found a pic, look at the ones on the right:





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2012 11:42AM by DaveK.

I don't have a good pic, but on the struts on my old car, Burmeister came up with something similar.

He ground the flange on the bolt to an offset circle, and then welded tabs onto the strut to hold it in place.

Of course, the tabs on the strut weren't really strong enough, and over time they stretched out pretty good. An insert into the strut hole would work a lot better, I imagine.

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john vanlandingham
I have slotted a LOT of upper holes for boys and at least on VW with the fine thread M12 and those Subies with the BIG M14 fine thread, if torqued up to spec, nothing is moving.

Maybe better bolts and a bigger breaker bar.

200+ ft/lbs doesn't do it. We had them moving around every time Brianne slid sideways. I eventually cut some little moons to fill the unused side of the oval hole below the nut and bolt head.

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Jason McDaniel

I put camber bolts in my GTX and even at rallyx speeds, I'd have to go in and re-set them at least once a day.

Dave

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modernbeat

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john vanlandingham
I have slotted a LOT of upper holes for boys and at least on VW with the fine thread M12 and those Subies with the BIG M14 fine thread, if torqued up to spec, nothing is moving.

Maybe better bolts and a bigger breaker bar.

200+ ft/lbs doesn't do it. We had them moving around every time Brianne slid sideways. I eventually cut some little moons to fill the unused side of the oval hole below the nut and bolt head.

Oh. Dear. Maybe set it up at whatever 1 degree or even zero and zot a washer to keep it..

This is in the rear, yes?
The fronts are done like OEM for the top bolt---how are they doing?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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modernbeat

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john vanlandingham
I have slotted a LOT of upper holes for boys and at least on VW with the fine thread M12 and those Subies with the BIG M14 fine thread, if torqued up to spec, nothing is moving.

Maybe better bolts and a bigger breaker bar.

200+ ft/lbs doesn't do it. We had them moving around every time Brianne slid sideways. I eventually cut some little moons to fill the unused side of the oval hole below the nut and bolt head.

I've found if you have OLD used up bolts, the camber ends up slipping, fresh new bolts from Subaru makes things better.

Also if you hit something hard, it will probably slip.

I think OEM spec on these is about 140 ft-lbs.

Having said that, the Offset washers that the Ohlins, and alot of other set-ups use is far superior, and fool proof.

If you guys wanted a cheap reliable solution, i'd try and adapt the subaru OEM front camber bolts to fit in the rear. You'd just have to bore out the hub to around 16mm.

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Chris

On the front, no issues. But they're not wreck proof - lol.

On the rear JVABs, slipped with new bolts. Slipped after roughing up the underside of the head and nut. Slipped when overtorqued. Slipped even when not hitting anything. We resorted to using a spacer to put the ear in max negative camber (we had tire room to spare) and used a camber plate to adjust camber.

Are you slotting the rears so they work on both GC and GD uprights?

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Jason McDaniel

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Do It Sidewayz
You'd just have to bore out the hub to around 16mm.

Just. ugh.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks for the replies guys! Good point on if I weld a tab to the shock to control camber, I won't have any options for resetting it in the event of a trail ding.

Any idea where I can source a set of those offset washers in the US?

AMF motorsports is the US Ohlins dealer. I've only dealt with them once, but they were great.
http://www.amfmotorsports.com/
This pdf has part numbers for the ohlins camber washers: http://www.amfmotorsports.com/pdf/mit_evo.pdf

Rallispec does RS&SP stuff which uses a similar setup, but I wouldnt recommend dealing with them.

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Carl S
AMF motorsports is the US Ohlins dealer. I've only dealt with them once, but they were great.
http://www.amfmotorsports.com/
This pdf has part numbers for the ohlins camber washers: http://www.amfmotorsports.com/pdf/mit_evo.pdf

Rallispec does RS&SP stuff which uses a similar setup, but I wouldnt recommend dealing with them.

Wow what coincidental irony blast from the past things in that post Carl.

In the late '60s to late 80s there were in Swedish moto-cross several clubs which were perennial powerhouses and in the very popular "Team Chamionship---aka "Lag SM 250" and "Lag SM 500" 2 clubs in the Stockholm area, one on the North side and one on the South side were often 1-and 2 in one class and reversed in the other.
The clubs were AMF or 'Allmänna Motor Förening'' in Södertälje where I was a member South of town and ''Upplands-Väsby Motorklubb'' where amongst others Torleif Hansen World Championship rider who had been helped by Kent Öhlin......the man who decided to make a better shock than any of the then available shocks.

Anyway there was a silly amount of ''us'' and ''them' between Upplands-Väsby and AMF, big battles and a lot of shit-talk/psyche out nonsense...

And you should have seen it when I moved in '75 to Upplands-Väsby.
''What the hell you doing here?'' was 'Tea-leaf' response when I ran into in the local grocery store ''Shopping''.
Then in '76 worked for Kenta for a while just when shocks were entering production...I guess I was their first American employee. (actually we were subbed out by the welding company)

So now we see:

Öhlins shocks sold by AMF in USA..

Somehow it makes sense.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.