Rear tubular suspension

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Clayto
Clayton McCrary
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Clayto

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 14, 2013 11:06PM

Registered: 07/04/2013
Posts: 161

Quote
Reamer
They make dom the perfect size for a 3/4" fine thread tap. I think it is the 120 wall but not positive on that. Either way if you buy the right size you just cut tap and rally. The swedge tubes JVL are talking about are super strong. I have broke a couple over the years. They brake at the swedge. They take major abuse thow. Ive never broke one just racing,more concrete walls and spins with a car hitting you at 70mph type brakes hits.

If you plan on running a rear swaybar you need to engineer a little more then just tubes. I guess you could figure within a turn and set the tow with the front tube.

As for the spacers. I made my first set back in 2000 out of 1" aluminum bar stock.I copied them from UB machine who must of copied them from JVL. I drilled the center to 1/2" then lathed down the end to 3/4" about 1/4" deep. then cut them off at the length I needed them to be.

The only thing ive run into with the bushings is if you take a big hit you will bend the bolts and knock out your toe. Hardened bolts bend to it just makes it tuffer to cut them out after there bent so use a softer bolt. The sheer strentgh of a 12mm bolt is super high but the do bend easier now that every thing is solid.

I would change out sway bar if a 4 link went in. That's a lotta weight gone with the stock pieces out smiling smiley

Maybe set up some tabs on the front links for the sway bar if I ever need it.

Started writing down numbers to figure what types of tube or metal stock and found piercemotorsports.com

Jim Pierce from California sells a bolt and go set up online for RallyEscorts and Velosters and one other car...

Cool stuff but definitely heavy like JVL said.

Big chunks of aluminum to match the stock links would do fine,no?

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john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
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john vanlandingham

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 14, 2013 11:09PM

Registered: 12/20/2005
Posts: 14,152

Quote
Clayto

Big chunks of aluminum to match the stock links would do fine,no?

Que?

John Vanlandingham
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Clayto
Clayton McCrary
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Clayto

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 12:00AM

Registered: 07/04/2013
Posts: 161

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Clayto

Big chunks of aluminum to match the stock links would do fine,no?

Que?

As Tim said in the opening of the thread...

Ok, I've only got a handful of ongoing projects, lets throw another one on the pile.

Why would an escort need beefy stock arms anyway? Or even beefy DOM tube?

Why not replicate stock dimensions with aluminum block and bolt on?

Is that silly?

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TronDD
Tim Meunier
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TronDD

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 09:51AM

Registered: 10/27/2011
Posts: 252

It doesn't need beefy tubes, that's why JVL said you don't need to go so far as .186 wall thickness.

I guess even .120 is big? That's what I don't know, I can work a power tool but I don't have the fab experience to know how strong anything is.

The easiest thing for me seems to be the swedged tubes and a few rod ends from summit. I still have the problem of reducers/spacers but I think I'll get a hold of the rod ends and see what I can do then.

Tim.

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Clayto
Clayton McCrary
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Clayto

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 11:30AM

Registered: 07/04/2013
Posts: 161

Good idea... Thecoleman racing site has nice tubes .....and a set of heims from phelps racing. All inexpensive enough to afford replacements

Might need a spacers rom JVL to fit the joint properly and keep angles smiling smiley

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2013 11:58AM by Clayto.

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john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
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john vanlandingham

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 11:57AM

Registered: 12/20/2005
Posts: 14,152

Quote
TronDD
It doesn't need beefy tubes, that's why JVL said you don't need to go so far as .186 wall thickness.

I guess even .120 is big? That's what I don't know, I can work a power tool but I don't have the fab experience to know how strong anything is.

The easiest thing for me seems to be the swedged tubes and a few rod ends from summit. I still have the problem of reducers/spacers but I think I'll get a hold of the rod ends and see what I can do then.

Tim.

Guess you boys are getting the hint that if you all go measure your lengths I can do another run of the nice plug in things.

All the end things similar I've seen, aside from being inch, seem to miss one important thing: the chamfer on the flat face.. That chamfer is the key to happiness in service. When the joint has been in service a while when installing if the assembly is cocked over the chamfer doesn't catch the edge of where you're shoving it in and dig in and raise a burr----making it impossible to shove the thing in till you file the burr down.
Instead, the chamfer self aligns things and the arm slides in all sweet and easy..

John Vanlandingham
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TronDD
Tim Meunier
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TronDD

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 01:46PM

Registered: 10/27/2011
Posts: 252

Does it make sense that I only need spacers that are 9.255mm thick on each side?

Oo, Phelps has a nice package deal on ebay for all 8 ends. $105 and free shipping. Cheapest I have seen.

Tim.

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john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
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john vanlandingham

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 03:05PM

Registered: 12/20/2005
Posts: 14,152

Quote
TronDD
Does it make sense that I only need spacers that are 9.255mm thick on each side?

Oo, Phelps has a nice package deal on ebay for all 8 ends. $105 and free shipping. Cheapest I have seen.

Tim.

Wha? we need the "width" or length of the bush--or better, a measure of the gap the assembly slides in between. Like 60mm or 45mm

John Vanlandingham
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Clayto
Clayton McCrary
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Clayto

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 03:14PM

Registered: 07/04/2013
Posts: 161

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
TronDD
Does it make sense that I only need spacers that are 9.255mm thick on each side?

Oo, Phelps has a nice package deal on ebay for all 8 ends. $105 and free shipping. Cheapest I have seen.

Tim.

Wha? we need the "width" or length of the bush--or better, a measure of the gap the assembly slides in between. Like 60mm or 45mm

Yea
Only way really is order a set then measure in hand....... I think I'll order some tonite.

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TronDD
Tim Meunier
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TronDD

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 03:25PM

Registered: 10/27/2011
Posts: 252

Stock subie bushings are 40mm wide. I posted that yesterday.

40mm - 21.488 (.846in for the 3/4 rod ends) = 18.512 space left to fill / 2 = 9.255mm spacers on each side. Yes?

I also need to reduce from 3/4 to M12 on 4 ends, and to M14 on the other 4 ends.

Tim.

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Reamer
Jeff Reamer
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Reamer

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 04:25PM

Registered: 08/14/2010
Posts: 489

You will need to do something about the holes on the sub frame ware the cam bolts were. Those holes are bigger then 12mm. Maybe weld washer in place.

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TronDD
Tim Meunier
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TronDD

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 05:00PM

Registered: 10/27/2011
Posts: 252

Yup. It's only one side of one hole. Depending on how much deeper I want to go, I might pull the sub frame and double up the lateral link mounts. Scope creep...

Tim.

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john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
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john vanlandingham

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 05:22PM

Registered: 12/20/2005
Posts: 14,152

Quote
Clayto

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
TronDD
Does it make sense that I only need spacers that are 9.255mm thick on each side?

Oo, Phelps has a nice package deal on ebay for all 8 ends. $105 and free shipping. Cheapest I have seen.

Tim.

Wha? we need the "width" or length of the bush--or better, a measure of the gap the assembly slides in between. Like 60mm or 45mm

Yea
Only way really is order a set then measure in hand....... I think I'll order some tonite.

We are not understanding each other...I suggest we resort to talking not typing. I don't know what you think you're gonna buy...

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Please Login or Register to post a reply

mke723
Mike Lindenfelser
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mke723

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 08:06PM

Registered: 10/17/2012
Posts: 154

Quote
Reamer
You will need to do something about the holes on the sub frame ware the cam bolts were. Those holes are bigger then 12mm. Maybe weld washer in place.

you can either weld a washer on 2, or drill all sub frame mounts out to 14mm so you can order ALL your heims in 14mm (remember thats the size on the other end) i would imagine you could get a better deal ordering 8 of 1, rather than 4 and 4...

I be sorry as a muthafucka I did, still sorry I did n' hustled ta peep what tha fuck I holla'd a lil' bit better, or at least try to.

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Clayto
Clayton McCrary
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Location: Olympia,WA
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Clayto

Re: Rear tubular suspension
September 15, 2013 08:13PM

Registered: 07/04/2013
Posts: 161

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Clayto

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
TronDD
Does it make sense that I only need spacers that are 9.255mm thick on each side?

Oo, Phelps has a nice package deal on ebay for all 8 ends. $105 and free shipping. Cheapest I have seen.

Tim.

Wha? we need the "width" or length of the bush--or better, a measure of the gap the assembly slides in between. Like 60mm or 45mm

Yea
Only way really is order a set then measure in hand....... I think I'll order some tonite.

We are not understanding each other...I suggest we resort to talking not typing. I don't know what you think you're gonna buy...

Sorry for confusion in the conversation John

We mentioned some end links on eBay $105 for a set of 8-3/4" heim with lock

Seems like a good deal, no?

Need joints to get proper clearance dimensions?

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