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Volvo 1030 axles

Posted by Eric Ewert 
Eric Ewert
Eric Ewert
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volvo 240


Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 02:18AM
I dunno man, too tired to look it up.

Im kinda stumped after starting this thread. Everyone actually came to the table with valid arguments for going various routes.

This is what i'm seeing, this factors in a t5 gearbox in there.

Volvo 1030

Pros
Cheapest, would have it together for around 800$
Axle : Need to have it shipped here so say 400$
R@P: 150$ If coming from a 140 may have the right gearing but count on needing one
Fresh bearing/ seals. I dunno 120$
Driveshaft adapter: 90$
Driveshaft from pnp:40$
Bolts in, easiest and fastest to put together


Cons:
Probably fine strength wise but is the weakest
Hardest to find
No cheap diff thats good for gravel

Toyota 8 inch

Pros
Far more plentiful than a volvo axle
Removable center section... I quite like the idea of this.
Supra diff slots in it... and I have one already.
Stronger than a volvo 1030 by a good amount
With the diff in there would work better than a welded 1030

Cons
Cost... see below
Supra diff from yard: 90$
Complete axle: 130$
Count on a ring and pinion but 4.88's did come in these things. 160$
Rebuild kit:120$
Redrill axles, well ill leave this out. I may have matt or my school who can help with this. But as discussed above 160$
Driveshaft: I dunno, here in calgary probably 500$ minimum to have a custom one done up. E-Brake: no easy solution for a ebrake that is safe for parking. Line lock?
Must fabricate panhard mount
aftermarket 4 link. Probably easier than swapping volvo mounts over: 200$ ish in parts

Total: Minimum 1200$, not including ebrake or cost of machining axles. Say 1500$

But it is a better axle.

Ford 9 inch.
Similar to yoda but about 20x them in pick n pull. With lsds. and brake options. But you would be looking at adapters or different wheels to keep factory brakes.

Get the displeasure of shortening an axle. Not something im comfortable with doing and not sure what it would cost.

Could be cheaper than the toyota. And would have way more parts available to it. But It is probably a good bit heavier.


Ill sleep on it. Who knows I might just spur of the moment go and pull a pathfinder axle out of the yard just to piss everyone off. hot smiley

Im not actually going to do that, however there are a lot of those things in the yard and if memory is correct they got removable center sections and are similar width to toyota.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/11/2014 02:19AM by Eric Ewert.
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tdrrally
edward mucklow
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 06:45AM
how about an ford 8.8 from an explorer rear disk brakes stock lsd stock r&p with install kit $320
then go to
http://www.circletracksupply.com/clamp-on-panhard-mount.html

and a custom drive shaft should be around $150

or a mustang 8.8 from an sn95 v8 stock lsd and disk brakes
parking brake cable and the rest from the same sn95

you can buy for little money new four link mounts from different companys
like
http://www.tabzone.com/AXLE-BRACKETS_c_31.html



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Robert Culbertson
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 09:37AM
The Ford Explorer 8.8 is another swap that is done into 240s. It involves shortening the longer axle tube to match the short one (2.25in?), this puts rear track on par with the front, but it's still 2in wider than stock. Grab another short side axle for $110 new and you're good to go. This is covered on Turbobricks a lot, wih different ways of accomplishing the chop and weld.

I have seen a lot of 8.8s with clutch type lsd on Craigslist here. $150 for a disk break rear end, complete. Will require a shortened mustang driveline.
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 10:02AM
Quote
Robert Culbertson
The Ford Explorer 8.8 is another swap that is done into 240s. It involves shortening the longer axle tube to match the short one (2.25in?), this puts rear track on par with the front, but it's still 2in wider than stock. Grab another short side axle for $110 new and you're good to go. This is covered on Turbobricks a lot, wih different ways of accomplishing the chop and weld.

I have seen a lot of 8.8s with clutch type lsd on Craigslist here. $150 for a disk break rear end, complete. Will require a shortened mustang driveline.

Yes beaten to death on Turbobricks where people scream that its so much less work that the Toyota axle..
Even when you do a 2 column comparison and show
--finding a suitable axle---same,
chopping off bracketry---same
----doing something about bolt circle--same,
buying a yoke/propshaft fiddles ---same

and then you have

"chop off Pass Side axle tube, shorten, jig up and weld, check for straightness, straighten, back to junk yard to fuck around to find another short side axle....drill that one..."

Somehow, with the logic of 3-4 screaming guys, THAT extra bit " is less work"

Yeah do several extra steps and one involving precision welding---to end up with a 2 pinion rather lame diff..Sounds like good thinking.



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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 10:10AM
Quote
Eric Ewert
I dunno man, too tired to look it up.

Im kinda stumped after starting this thread. Everyone actually came to the table with valid arguments for going various routes.

This is what i'm seeing, this factors in a t5 gearbox in there.

Volvo 1030

Pros
Cheapest, would have it together for around 800$
Axle : Need to have it shipped here so say 400$
R@P: 150$ If coming from a 140 may have the right gearing but count on needing one
Fresh bearing/ seals. I dunno 120$
Driveshaft adapter: 90$
Driveshaft from pnp:40$
Bolts in, easiest and fastest to put together


Cons:
Probably fine strength wise but is the weakest
Hardest to find
No cheap diff thats good for gravel

Toyota 8 inch

Pros
Far more plentiful than a volvo axle
Removable center section... I quite like the idea of this.
Supra diff slots in it... and I have one already.
Stronger than a volvo 1030 by a good amount
With the diff in there would work better than a welded 1030

Cons
Cost... see below
Supra diff from yard: 90$
Complete axle: 130$
Count on a ring and pinion but 4.88's did come in these things. 160$
Rebuild kit:120$
Redrill axles, well ill leave this out. I may have matt or my school who can help with this. But as discussed above 160$
Driveshaft: I dunno, here in calgary probably 500$ minimum to have a custom one done up. E-Brake: no easy solution for a ebrake that is safe for parking. Line lock?
Must fabricate panhard mount
aftermarket 4 link. Probably easier than swapping volvo mounts over: 200$ ish in parts

Total: Minimum 1200$, not including ebrake or cost of machining axles. Say 1500$

But it is a better axle.

Ford 9 inch.
Similar to yoda but about 20x them in pick n pull. With lsds. and brake options. But you would be looking at adapters or different wheels to keep factory brakes.

Get the displeasure of shortening an axle. Not something im comfortable with doing and not sure what it would cost.

Could be cheaper than the toyota. And would have way more parts available to it. But It is probably a good bit heavier.


Ill sleep on it. Who knows I might just spur of the moment go and pull a pathfinder axle out of the yard just to piss everyone off. hot smiley


Im not actually going to do that, however there are a lot of those things in the yard and if memory is correct they got removable center sections and are similar width to toyota.

Shop right.
Some of thos stupid things came with 4.67 or shorter. Beggars can't be cHosers,
Price for 4.88 meh find a 4.67 fawkin grab it, do the 4.88 later if you find your being held back by 4.67.

LOOK at it, skip "rebuild." Its a fucking TOYOTA diff...they're marvy. Your current diff is Ok and its USED!!!!!! Oh Noez! well the Toiletta is used but its WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaAAAAAYYYY better so don't worry.
Weld diff---till you can afford a El Ess Dee.
Handbrake if you splurge for a "quaaaaaaality' handbrake master will hold--especially if you put the wheels to the curb as you should---never lost a car in Seattle--we have a few hills.

Propshaft--use brains---outsmart the bastids...



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mellow65
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 10:14AM
Quote
alkun
John,


The yoshi fab thing is a little aluminumininamum spacer that goes between the rear yolk and the input flange on a 1030 so that you can go to the yunkyard and get a fordge musktank drive shaft and slip it right into your T5 equiped volvo 240. Except that I don't see it on Yoshi's website anymore....

http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=37



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Eric Ewert
Eric Ewert
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 10:44AM
Skip rebuild? Im talking about fresh bearings in the housing/ center section, which any of these axles are getting for the cost of 120 bucks. Im not going to throw a 300 thousand plus km rear end in and hope it doesn't go wrong. Not for that price. I wasn't talking about the diff.

Welded in a toyota? That defeats half the purpose of going to a toyota which is very affordable diffs. One which I already have. If Im going to weld it I will keep to a 1030.

Shop right.... even the 4.56 ones are scarce. Every one of these things at the yard seams to have a 4.3 at best. As previously mentions they are not too hard to find but they are not free pickings at the yard. Typically there are a couple in there.

Maybe don't just disregard everything I just put down...
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heymagic
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 11:28AM
Lots and lots of cars have been rallied successfully with other than 4.88 diffs. Anything near 4.5 is plenty and with a decent transmission and 175 hp then 4.00 can work. LSD , yup nice but some guys go pretty fast with a Lincoln Locker...I've rallied with an open diff and somehow survived.

So, I wouldn't spend money to go in a wrong direction, especially if it is wrong and difficult.

Seems like 1030s are hard to find, hard to LSD, iffy on gearing and you have to spend money and go out of your way to do so.

Toyota..
brackets should be nearly a non-issue for anyone building a rally car. Cut, grind, weld.
axle shaft..a bit more difficult but I bet I know a guy who can do them for a moderate fee..done right.
driveline ..iffy. Iffy the tube is the same diameter and either shortened or a different yoke of the correct size is installed then really not a big deal. Balancing usually isn't far enough off to worry about, honestly. Keep things straight and weld neatly. I don't know how many drivelines I've cut in days gone by with no big issue. We never balanced rally tires and a rim full of mud fawks things up in a heart beat anyway.
DROP IN GEARSETS..should be self explanatory..

Ford..doesn't fit, doesn't fit right after extensive mods, expensive gear changes, costs as much or more.

You already own the Supra LSD..you could go another route and sell your parts, you could go another route and still do a Toy later..but why?

E-Brakes... hydraulic works. Either use the stock handle with the button pinned or a fancy schmancy one with a board or bungee cord.

Daily driven rally cars..no, no, no.

Do it right, do it once. Life is like that. A DNF costs more than the difference in building a good diff. Cheap and easy usually applies to the crack whore working the truck stops....

Chin up lil buckaroo !

or sell the whole mess and buy a Sube..grinning smiley

Ford...cutting a housing AND all the work needed for a Toy...
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Morison
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 11:32AM
Quote
john vanlandingham
Handbrake if you splurge for a "quaaaaaaality' handbrake master will hold--especially if you put the wheels to the curb as you should---never lost a car in Seattle--we have a few hills.

There are a couple of times we've seen rally cars, with quality components, roll away after being left on their hydraulic handbrakes.
Most recently, it was a car that had to stop mid-stage beacuse of an emergency situation. Best thinking on the situation was that as the brakes cooled, the fluid 'contracted,' reducing the pressure on the handbrake. (I can easily see this same cooling coming into play when changing a flat at the end of a stage... maybe even in the middle.)
If it is easy to accomplish, I think there is good reason for a mechanical handbrake.



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Quote
john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 11:47AM
Quote
heymagic
Lots and lots of cars have been rallied successfully with other than 4.88 diffs. Anything near 4.5 is plenty and with a decent transmission and 175 hp then 4.00 can work. LSD , yup nice but some guys go pretty fast with a Lincoln Locker...I've rallied with an open diff and somehow survived.

He's up there where there has to be piles of wannbe Mountain Men with the 4-runners all with fat, TALL tires so with a little searching he ought to be able to find one with the 4.67 or even the 4.88...just have to spend the time to search a bit...but as i said with college, time is a premium..

Quote

So, I wouldn't spend money to go in a wrong direction, especially if it is wrong and difficult.
'xactly

Quote

Seems like 1030s are hard to find, hard to LSD, iffy on gearing and you have to spend money and go out of your way to do so.

Up there where nice cars rust and get crushed, seems so. Here I can find 'em in 5 minutes. 09.42 now.

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Quote

Toyota..
brackets should be nearly a non-issue for anyone building a rally car.

In stock and shock mounts too just for this.

Quote

Cut, grind, weld.
axle shaft..a bit more difficult but I bet I know a guy who can do them for a moderate fee..done right.

Xratty-boy Matt just right down the road nearly certainly can do the thing--he accepts payment in beer.
Drilling the holes is not too rough with a Bridgeport---you crank the head way out so you can hang the axle over the edge of the bed and secure axle with a V block and normal clamps..
DRO and I have the X and Y to make it soooooooper easy


Quote

driveline ..iffy. Iffy the tube is the same diameter and either shortened or a different yoke of the correct size is installed then really not a big deal. Balancing usually isn't far enough off to worry about, honestly. Keep things straight and weld neatly. I don't know how many drivelines I've cut in days gone by with no big issue. We never balanced rally tires and a rim full of mud fawks things up in a heart beat anyway.

Yep--weld yoke for $18 at diff end and a weld yoke for 1310 at the other for another $18.
V blocks, goood chamfer, tack in 3-4 spots and weld.


DROP IN GEARSETS..should be self explanatory..

Quote

Ford..doesn't fit, doesn't fit right after extensive mods, expensive gear changes, costs as much or more.

It CAN but yeah--everywhere but Turdboatpricks its more work

Quote

You already own the Supra LSD..you could go another route and sell your parts, you could go another route and still do a Toy later..but why?

E-Brakes... hydraulic works. Either use the stock handle with the button pinned or a fancy schmancy one with a board or bungee cord.

They really work good with the nice big Volvo rear calipers.

Quote

Daily driven rally cars..no, no, no.

I dunno, I've done it, park in 1st gear, wheels cut to curb correctly.
Never had one roll away---done a number for other guys in years past and they parked them on hills too, no problems..

Quote

Do it right, do it once. Life is like that. A DNF costs more than the difference in building a good diff. Cheap and easy usually applies to the crack whore working the truck stops....

Yep..just delayed gratification a bit...delayed gratification builds work ethic, makes America strong.. Dun't know what it does for Canajians thoeye rolling smiley

Quote

Chin up lil buckaroo !

or sell the whole mess and buy a Sube..grinning smiley

Ford...cutting a housing AND all the work needed for a Toy...

Yep looks like a big deal but gawddam this kid do a whole cage and did it good, zotting on a few tabs and a propshaft is nuthing compared to that...

DOOOOOOOO IT.

And just think---drop out center section...aaaahhhh so easy...



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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/11/2014 12:23PM by john vanlandingham.
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Pete
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 11:54AM
I thought the stock 4.88 was to be avoided because it took a different carrier than everything else.



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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 12:29PM
Quote
Pete
I thought the stock 4.88 was to be avoided because it took a different carrier than everything else.

Which 4.88? If Dana 30 the break pint is in the 3.30 sumpin range I think so non-issue.
If Toiletta he's 'spossed to dig for the right one and get either the 4.67 OR the 4.88 and leave the fawkin thing alone for now.

I wonder if I call Matt, the Xrattie guy I can convince him to go 'splain to him he's being silly and smack Eric with a mackrel?

Something like this..






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Eric Ewert
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 01:32PM
well, shit. You guys are awesome. Fine ill try the toyletta thing.

I wonder if there is a way to make the stock volvo handbrake work on the toyota thing? Because I don't need a hydro one. I think there stupid for the most part and never use one other than to park the damn thing.

Don't judge me on the daily driven rally car! Well ok judge all you want but im still doing it... im 20, insuring two cars is not an option.
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mellow65
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 01:52PM
Quote
john vanlandingham
Quote
Pete
I thought the stock 4.88 was to be avoided because it took a different carrier than everything else.

Which 4.88?

The factory 4.88 from toyota. They had thinner ring gears.

Quote

The FACTORY 4.88 V6 diff is unique!
- Axle code G144, white pinion paint code,
- generally came in 92-95 trucks/4runners with V6, auto tranny, 31" tires, and tow package.
- Housing offsets pinion towards ring gear, allowing ring gear to be thinner
- OEM Toyota gears are the ONLY gears that fit this diff due to the thinner ring gear. All other gear sets have thicker ring gears and do not fit.
- The carrier (case) is the same as the V6 diffs, so normal V6 lockers, LSD's, etc. will work in this diff



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mellow65
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Re: Volvo 1030 axles
October 11, 2014 02:04PM
Quote
Eric Ewert
well, shit. You guys are awesome. Fine ill try the toyletta thing.

I wonder if there is a way to make the stock volvo handbrake work on the toyota thing? Because I don't need a hydro one. I think there stupid for the most part and never use one other than to park the damn thing.

Don't judge me on the daily driven rally car! Well ok judge all you want but im still doing it... im 20, insuring two cars is not an option.

The volvo e brakes are internal drums, so you would need to mount the backing plate and use the rotors also. When picking your calipers, find something with a integrated e brake, the GM metric ones use pretty much the most supported pad out there. And if you want to ditch the mechanical hand brake someday, you can swap on any of the tons of metric calipers out there.

The e brake ones I'm talking about came 1979-1985 Cadillac Seville.

Other then that, there are mustang ones like Gene said, and probably a whole list of them, it's just going to take some time at the junkyard. Just make sure you find something with aftermarket support. I'm kicking myself for that mistake right now.



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