Rally truck idea

I wan to take an old 1967 ford f100 and spec it out as rally but also keep very street able as a daily driver. My plan is to keep 2wd with 351w stroked out to 427 with c6 tranny with shift kit. then rip out the i beam superstition and replace with mustang 2 suspension kit. Take the mustang 2 suspension and beef then give it more ground clearance. Can you give me ideas on beef up the mustang 2 suspention

Yep. Best way to beef up Mustang-II suspension is to rip it out and use something that was designed to be strong from the start. Not something that was designed to barely support one of the lightest and cheapest cars produced in the US.

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Jason McDaniel

I am planing to use fatman fabrications m2 kits and beef it up

Jake, first familiarize yourself with the rules and put your name n such in your profile.

Then recognize that you won't do anything other than throw good money after bad trying to hold up an F series with a beefed up set of the equivalent of toothpicks. Lots of neat truck ideas on the site if you use the search function to find them. Others with previous truck projects can tell you of the suspension woes.

Personally, I would think it would be difficult to keep the Windsor consistently putting its power on the ground, but if you use a weak suspension it would be the least of your problems.

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Kirk Coughlin
Woodbury, MN and River Falls, WI

Quemadmodum gladius neminem occidit, occidentis telum est.

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Jake611
I am planing to use fatman fabrications m2 kits and beef it up

Don't use that kit, and you won't have to beef it up.

My sugestion, as crude as it is, is to use a later model full size truck suspension, with real truck spindles and real bearings and strong arms. If not that, then use a heavy duty circle track front suspension.

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Jason McDaniel

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Jake611
I am planing to use fatman fabrications m2 kits and beef it up

No offense, but that is street rod shit. It's not meant to do anything but hold up some old guy's diaper-rubber. "beefing it up" will require throwing everything away and starting over from scratch.

I get tired of having to deal with street rod shit at my day job... some of the garbage out there is seriously bad, like horrific geometry, bogusly weak linkage designs that can't be fixed, suspension bushings that are just plastic with no inner sleeve so you can't even tighten the bolts down, you have to use Nylocs to keep the bolts from falling out and the shit still wears horribly after a couple thousand street miles...

I'm not even going to comment on the ideas of using a truck, building an engine larger than is permissible, or the idea of using a rally car as a street vehicle.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Is there anyway to put modern f150 suspension underneath the old truck

As this is rally anarchy, you will get good honest advice.

Although it is theoretically possible to build what you describe, it would cost a metric shit-ton of money and development time, and still be such a scary nightmare to drive that you would most likely literally poop in your pants on the first stage with a fast section, and have the slowest time there.

There is not one aspect of a '67 f100 that was designed to go fast or handle well. I'll admit that I too like to daydream about putting an ice cream truck on top a Celica Alltrac, can't you just see it? Selling missle pops to the start folks while you do the time card? It'd be awesome.

Get a ford ranger for your rally truck and tow with the f100.

Google Bill Holmes rally.

I'm pretty sure he made his rally truck by taking the VIN off the frame of a pre-emissions era truck and redoing _everything_ else.

But he also plays with Baja trucks, so the budget might have an extra zero or two.

Stay away from street rod stuff, most of it is made to drive a '39 Frod with a 350/350 swap to and from the local show-n-shine and nothing else.

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Andrew Steere
Lyndeborough, NH
KB1PJY

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alkun
As this is rally anarchy, you will get good honest advice.

Although it is theoretically possible to build what you describe, it would cost a metric shit-ton of money and development time, and still be such a scary nightmare to drive that you would most likely literally poop in your pants on the first stage with a fast section, and have the slowest time there.

There is not one aspect of a '67 f100 that was designed to go fast or handle well. I'll admit that I too like to daydream about putting an ice cream truck on top a Celica Alltrac, can't you just see it? Selling missle pops to the start folks while you do the time card? It'd be awesome.

Get a ford ranger for your rally truck and tow with the f100.

No way Ice Cream truck. Use your fawkin brains!
Get A BEER TRUCK... get the Control workers all soused up, get the officials cross eyed! Get yourself beer-goggled! Chaos reigns you make protest and Win!

Then get blotto with everybody else and Monday everybody wakes up happy..

Hasn't that been finally decided that the entire point of everything we do is to make everybody happy?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I got another idea where I take old muscle car like a maverick,nova,or dart make into a rally car. So I can beat on Subaru and evos and still drive it during the summer. If you guys have any good ideas how to build a badass rally muscle car.

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Jake611
Is there anyway to put modern f150 suspension underneath the old truck

It is possible to do any swap. But you should look at what makes a good rally car for US style events. For a 2WD, you will want something about 110" wheelbase and 60-65" track. You will want an upright seating position for both visibility and best use of body strength on the steering wheel. Seating position further back helps the driver feel the yaw of the car easier. Even, or slightly rearward weight bias helps, but the standard nose heavy truck weight distribution is horrible. You do not want to raise the car any more than necessary to clear the tire desired, unless you are competing in some of the California events that may have some large rocks. Build the car strong enough to bottom out, drive through a ditch, or slide sideways through a ditch without losing a wheel. For longevity and strength you will want to use large bearings, fixed calipers (as opposed to sliders), and thick rotors. Use the largest monotube shock you can. Plan to use 100hp per 1000 lbs of weight. Set up the rear geometry for good anti squat and a relatively high roll center.

The best source of cheap parts that accomplish this is stockcar front suspension components. They are even made to fit under the 15" wheels needed for rally tires.

But you should know that the wear and tear on a rally car makes it both maintaince intensive and, well, fairy ugly to use as a daily driver.

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Jason McDaniel



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2015 12:38PM by modernbeat.

you would be better served to put the f100 cab on a late model ranger frame and adjust the axles as needed

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I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

Has any one done it that way before. it sounds like a good idea my true intent is make an old school 2wd raptor. using ranger components i can up grade the suspension to act like prerunner to get what i want

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Jake611
Has any one done it that way before. sic

Yep.

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Kirk Coughlin
Woodbury, MN and River Falls, WI

Quemadmodum gladius neminem occidit, occidentis telum est.