MK3 Jetta build

I think Gord Olson would be pissed if he saw my car being suggested as his, his is way nicer than mine The red one in the photo way up there is mine. Something I would do differently (next time, when that time comes...) is plate the top of the tower before welding on the tube, like the one in green shows. And fyi, 4" sch 40 pipe was a perfect fit over the VW rear tower. I always give John full credit for the pipe idea, he suggested it to me early on (2001 ish).

Also, gripper diff for the win. I've still got the original in Gripper in the car from 2004, can't say enough good things about it, love it. And I've used the torsen diffs in the past as well, what a joke.

I also have a 4.64 final drive with a close ratio box (9A i think), it rocks without habing to touch the gear set. Sounds like there are some nice gear sets out there now though that don't require the gnarly final drive. Between a good clutch diff and low final drive, the car is transformed into a "real" fun rally car, not just a street car being driven quickly on gravel roads...

It always makes me chuckle seeing people trying to reinvent the wheel on this stuff, i guess maybe i'm getting old.

I haven't stage rallyed my Mk3 yet (only rallyxed) but heres what I don't like so far

CV joints
o2o transmissions (use an O2A with a cable shifter from a mk4 and ditch the evil linkages)
CV joints
MK3 rear calipers (use mk4's, the ebrake doesn't bind on in cold temps)
Rear stub axles (also going to mk4 soon.. probably with GLI vented rear rotors)
CV joints

More will come I'm sure.. but i'm pretty happy overall

Quote
DexterVW
I haven't stage rallyed my Mk3 yet (only rallyxed) but heres what I don't like so far

CV joints
o2o transmissions (use an O2A with a cable shifter from a mk4 and ditch the evil linkages)
CV joints
MK3 rear calipers (use mk4's, the ebrake doesn't bind on in cold temps)
Rear stub axles (also going to mk4 soon.. probably with GLI vented rear rotors)
CV joints

More will come I'm sure.. but i'm pretty happy overall

Where's Tom Burress when you need him?

I can remember just whet we did on his but I had suggested he get MkIV hub and outer CV and we carved on something and redrilled for 4 on 100mm bolt circle and he said it works....Bigger stuff for heavier car...

Have you tried a 10mm spacer under the outer tie rod assembly to limit steering lock a bit yet?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Hmmmmm... i wish it was my outter cv's I was assploding but I do wonder about mk4 axles... as I already run 5x100 wheels it wouldn't be too hard to swap hubs .. hmmmm


as for the steering limiters.. they are on the list, thanks

Quote
DexterVW
Hmmmmm... i wish it was my outter cv's I was assploding but I do wonder about mk4 axles... as I already run 5x100 wheels it wouldn't be too hard to swap hubs .. hmmmm


as for the steering limiters.. they are on the list, thanks

Wha's assplodin'?

I've seen again and again CV shearing off the splined part on many Golves, zat it?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I assplode (explode in the queens engrish) the inner CV.. usually flinging the little cage out through the boot and dropping my balls every where

I've never really had an issue with the little stub axle, but then I use the correct tightening torque as told to me by a very successful mk1 rabbit racer.... "sit on a 4 foot bar.. then bounce on it". Seems to work.

So far its 20 or so inner cv's to only 1 outer (on a friends car). Usually its mid corner with some LFB involved... I've got the nick name of Breaker Boy in my rallyx region



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2015 03:14PM by DexterVW.

Inner CVs break when over extended --- likely from bad motor mounts that allow the thing to shift laterally and pull apart the cage.

The outer stub shearing seems to be a combo of causes:
1) Wrong materials and/or machining --- in the case of Raxles, etc
2) Wrong torque (too high or too low) in wheel bearing leading to failure.
3) Excessive angle --- fix by applying limiter to rack.

---

____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Quote
Josh Wimpey
Inner CVs break when over extended --- likely from bad motor mounts that allow the thing to shift laterally and pull apart the cage.

The outer stub shearing seems to be a combo of causes:
1) Wrong materials and/or machining --- in the case of Raxles, etc
2) Wrong torque (too high or too low) in wheel bearing leading to failure.
3) Excessive angle --- fix by applying limiter to rack.

Good to know.. thanks Josh!

As an update to the final drive, I evidently DID end up ordering a 4.46 initially instead of the 4.25 as originally thought. I was humming and hawing and jumping back and forth between the two for too long and completely forgot which one I had ordered.

Anyways...this is not the problem right now. The problem is gear box is rebuilt and back together, but there is a fitment issue.

Ive heard various thoughts on difference between euro 020 and north american 020 tranmission, as the final drive Ring and Pinion came from Germany from these guys:
http://www.mts-motorsport.com/Gearbox-Technics/Final-Drive/VW-020-/-02K-Transmission


Any have any ideas what the issue could be?
(PM's sent to a few of you directly too).

The issue is putting it back together with the new stuff or fitting it back in the car?

Quote
DexterVW
The issue is putting it back together with the new stuff or fitting it back in the car?

It is in the transmission, and transmisison is back together and shimmed etc.
It is the fitment of the 4th gears onto the new shaft that is the issue.

From emails with MTS, we have somewhat deduced that in Europe the 020s that came with their 8v motors are different than the 020s that came with North American 8V. In North America we did not have the 16v option for the 2.0L. but we figure the North American 020 on the 2.0L had the similar 4th gear of the Euro 8V 020. It now seems like the option is to do one of the following:
OPTION 1. put old pinion back in and install completely different gear kit (as was recommended above), which means having to reshim etc etc.
OPTION 2. find the 4th fixedgear from a 1.8L 8V car here in North America and plop that in....



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2015 04:48PM by fabianp.

Quote
fabianp

Quote
DexterVW
The issue is putting it back together with the new stuff or fitting it back in the car?

It is in the transmission, and transmisison is back together and shimmed etc.
It is the fitment back on to the engine where it issue is.

From emails with MTS, we have somewhat deduced that in Europe the 020s that came with their 8v motors are different than the 020s that came with North American 8V. In North America we did not have the 16v option for the 2.0L. but we figure the North American 020 on the 2.0L had the similar 4th gear of the Euro 8V 020. It now seems like the option is to do one of the following:
OPTION 1. put old pinion back in and install completely different gear kit (as was recommended above), which means having to reshim etc etc.
OPTION 2. find the 4th fixedgear from a 1.8L 8V car here in North America and plop that in....

Confirmed by this :
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,99565,100015#msg-100015

As Brian Klausen mentioned. Different 4th gears for 16v and 8v 020 in Europe.

rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmmmm.. yeah so a few points I don't get

We did get a 2.0 16V with an o2o trans... not that the gears in the trans change the way it bolts up to the motor.. unless you changed the input shaft.. then you might have gone from the small spline to the large and it won't fit with the clutch anymore. Other than that you could put anything inside the trans and it won't change the way it bolts to the motor...

Quote
DexterVW
rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmmmm.. yeah so a few points I don't get

We did get a 2.0 16V with an o2o trans... not that the gears in the trans change the way it bolts up to the motor.. unless you changed the input shaft.. then you might have gone from the small spline to the large and it won't fit with the clutch anymore. Other than that you could put anything inside the trans and it won't change the way it bolts to the motor...

The 020's in the mk3 8v's have the large input shaft, just like the mk2 16v's. So please give us some details on the "fitment" issue. Maybe you just need to change the clutch?

What is the code on the transmission?

Pics and measurements or it didn't happen!
Sounds like you need to switch to the correct clutch.