Audi CQ Rally Build
Posted by dalspaugh
John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
David Alspaugh Junior Moderator Location: Boston, MA Join Date: 04/30/2015 Age: Settling Down Posts: 66 Rally Car: '91 Audi Coupe Quattro |
David Alspaugh Junior Moderator Location: Boston, MA Join Date: 04/30/2015 Age: Settling Down Posts: 66 Rally Car: '91 Audi Coupe Quattro |
Still working on the wiring a bit. Replacing all my shitty masking tape labels with proper vinyl labels that can withstand the heat/conditions. I'm happy with how it's coming out but it's taking plenty of time! I'm also using a velcro wrap to simply hold the wires together while this harness is unproven. Once I flush out the bugs and get the wiring proven with the car running, I'll pull it out and dress it properly.
This is about 80% of it: 
I've also started to look at how I"m going to run the external fuel pumps. For a while I was thinking about just installing a couple panel mount fittings on the top of the fuel sending unit plastic piece here: 
It has a nice flat surface there with plenty of real estate for two fittings (supply/return) AND the lowest part of the tank resides directly below it so I could just drop a hose straight down for pick-up but it's just plastic. I'm worried that the first time someone throws a tire in the back of this thing, it'll smack the fitting and break that whole assembly... so likely not going that route unless I machined a piece out of aluminum to replace the upper part or something. So back to just using the stock outputs underneath for now. Need to order the pumps, I'll likely go with 2 of these in parallel and run one at a time - more than enough capacity even on one pump for my 160 HP NA motor: http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-pumps/in-line-fuel-pumps/dw250il-in-line-fuel-pump-detail Blog about my history with the rally car written for non-automotive folk: davescq.wordpress.com |
Tim Patrick Super Moderator Location: Raleigh, NC Join Date: 01/26/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 175 Rally Car: Galant VR-4 |
John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Grant Hughes Senior Moderator Location: Whitefish, MT Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 6,818 Rally Car: BMW |
David Alspaugh Junior Moderator Location: Boston, MA Join Date: 04/30/2015 Age: Settling Down Posts: 66 Rally Car: '91 Audi Coupe Quattro |
Grant Hughes Senior Moderator Location: Whitefish, MT Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 6,818 Rally Car: BMW |
Fernando vitor Godlike Moderator Location: Rome Ga USA Join Date: 11/03/2015 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 14 Rally Car: 1990 audi cq- 2014 Suzuki gran vitara |
New to this forum and happy to see another Crazy person building a coupe Quattro .
If you don't have the money but the skills , build your own suspension. Bilstein sells those universal struts for around $350 a pop. Rally is and will never be cheap, if it cranks you better make sure it turns, stops and protects you. My build project is rally oriented but my first intention is to do lemons. Good luck with the project! |
David Alspaugh Junior Moderator Location: Boston, MA Join Date: 04/30/2015 Age: Settling Down Posts: 66 Rally Car: '91 Audi Coupe Quattro |
Fernando vitor Godlike Moderator Location: Rome Ga USA Join Date: 11/03/2015 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 14 Rally Car: 1990 audi cq- 2014 Suzuki gran vitara |
David Alspaugh Junior Moderator Location: Boston, MA Join Date: 04/30/2015 Age: Settling Down Posts: 66 Rally Car: '91 Audi Coupe Quattro |
David Alspaugh Junior Moderator Location: Boston, MA Join Date: 04/30/2015 Age: Settling Down Posts: 66 Rally Car: '91 Audi Coupe Quattro |
Oh, I also extracted my first broken exhaust stud (in the head). Here's the process in case anyone's interested:
**All these steps were performed after much treatment with MAP Torch and PB Blaster!** eyeball center and punch it with a center punch. 
I have left-hand thread bits just for this purpose, so dril it out, pay careful attn to depth so as not go into the head... 
Tap in extractor to seat... 
then, CAREFULLY crank CCW, I say carefully because the extractors can only take so much and you REALLY don't want to break the extractor off in the stud. If it feels like its not going to move, reapply lots of heat and penetrating fluid. You can also step up to a bigger drill bit and bigger extractor... but in the end.. whoala! 
Also, I should note, that this job mamde me buy this fancy extractor set... but having 3 early 90s Audis in NE, I'm sure will allow me to get my money back... (also I got it on Amazon Warehouse deals for a discount) http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EEX644?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 Blog about my history with the rally car written for non-automotive folk: davescq.wordpress.com |
Brian Klausen Elite Moderator Location: Denmark Join Date: 03/21/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 388 Rally Car: VW Golf GTi 16V |
Not to beat a dead horse, but maybe consider re-scoping then... Stich welding is so very basic, and takes a lot of taking-car-apart to get to, not to mention messing up paint job in the area. Doing the actual welding is not THAT bad time-wise - getting to where you are able to do the welding, and cleaning up afterwards takes time. So if you are "in there" for other business, I would consider doing it anyway, even if it means not doing some other things right now. I haven't read through the thread in detail, but I bet there are a few items that I would give lower priority than stitch welding. I know I am happy I did it on my car... I have multi point cage extending to the front towers (our regs are not as insane as the US ones), tie ins here and there, etc. We do some jumping - and it is on rather stiff tarmac suspension (since we rally mostly on tarmac  ).
Also I haven't spent a lot of money on fancy suspension - more like "get the stuff that works and lasts". Still - after doing a +100 mph jump at the last event, I checked the seams in the front wheel tubs, and it still does shift a bit as can be seen in the paint. Just half a millimeter - but it is there - and this car is stitch welded. So far the shell has lasted more than 10 years - I wonder how long it would have lasted without stitching it. Brgrds Brian 
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John Vanlandingham Mod Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Wildisen, I put 10 hard years and 10s of thousands of miles practice on my first car, the old 69 Saab...I knew it was stronger by serious degree than modern flimsy things like anything from the 80s but I thought you just do it.. A Golf pervert I knew in Sweden, Jonas Danielsson from Märsta said he's asked some old guy if he should weld when he started building his Golf--when he had sold his 96 (that is how I met him---I was buying some of his old stuff (steel flywheel and motorsport pressure plate and some other junk) He said the old guy said "You can take some time now, maybe 20-25 hours, and stitch it and the shell will last maybe 2 years of hard use and give no problems....OR you can skip it and go straight to rallies and when parts bend and rip, THEN you can hammer them straight, weld in a patch and in 2 years you will have spent maybe 25 hours welding. The difference is the amount of repairs to things, the amount of parts fallen off and damaged and the DNFs you have because of parts ripping and falling off, and the entry fees and transport to those events...Your choice" But Like you Danes, the Swedes are Lutherans in culture..This means it is an accepted premise that if you shall have some fun you must pay, you must suffer. That is the nature of the world. WE are Merikuns...The culture was once a "Protestant" culture..Hard work, and deferral of gratification was the cornerstone of what made Merikuh grape. But that faded and was replaced by the current "Consumer-Capitalist" economy. The one unbending rule is the instant gratification of any and every whim...Its what won WWI (on this very day 97 years ago) and was the source of America singlehandedly winning WWII, and why we beat the evil Soviet Union, and defeated worldwide Comma-nist Conspiracy to impose its satanic ideology on us. Suggesting doing something NOW for the benefit of having something that might last 10 years is nothing short of un-American if it means delaying entering an event.. I appreciate you suggesting what you did. I always appreciate your input..I have advocated thorough going stitch welding in the past--and done I don't know but maybe 10 cars... Since we are privateers it seemed to make sense... But then I saw the error of my ways..and began suggesting more or less just what you are saying sorta. "Weld when you're there"..so inside the car at cage time? Weld what's easy... Later after entering event with shitty old worn out motor and you blow it up so the engine and box are out? Weld when you're there. Did the subframe in the rear rip and the links and arms go boing cause they were not looked at? Weld when you're there.. But even that is excessive I now understand..experienced guys who have done 3 whole events in the last 10 years say the worst thing they ever did was to listen to me...so since we're saying the same thing in essence, we must both be wrong.. If I come and visit Danmark sometime, please remind me to slap you on the side of the head..I think we call that a "bitch slap" but I'm not so good with current merikun thought. Obviously.. Then you can return the favor. Happy Armistice Day...the 11th Hour of the eleventh day or the eleventh month...97 years ago.. And the guns went silent. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
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