Found a needle in the VW Haystack

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john vanlandingham

I cannot begin to imagine how you conclude its a casting from that piccie.

Think again..no sane person would use a casting (of what?) in a design like that..
So....
Forging without a doubt--too silly to think they would whittle away all that material making it out of a hunk of bar..too much chips, too much machine time.
Steve said that since you don't have access to CNC mills anymore you are no longer intending to make those adapters. Seems to me the thing to do might be to pitch the prints back to who championed the idea for 20 years before you visited and we poked at the idea...

The "non-handed" part is I think a good idea and worthwhile to pursue, but these are cheap enough that spares can be procured and stored just in case.

I was looking at the picture from my phone, so I'm not too sure how it's made. The incredibly rough surface finish and flashing along the edges made me think it's a casting. I don't have a high res picture, or the part in my hand soooo.

As far as me making more parts. I don't have access to the same CNC mills (that had the NC file and the fixture offsets stored), and my hard drive ate the CAD files when it decided to die. I should have new models done here in a week or so. I also have a CNC shop that's should be able to produce them for a very reasonable price.

Soooo... If anyone wants some adapters plates, holla at yo boi.

Those stubs look like an OE fitment from something or other, or else why would they bother to make an ABS sensor hole?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the big advantage of these was that they DON'T bend, the big nut tightens down against the inner bearing races, putting the spindle in a tension load instead of a bending one, and it's all one big solid assembly effectively the OD of the inner races.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Quote
Pete
Those stubs look like an OE fitment from something or other, or else why would they bother to make an ABS sensor hole?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the big advantage of these was that they DON'T bend, the big nut tightens down against the inner bearing races, putting the spindle in a tension load instead of a bending one, and it's all one big solid assembly effectively the OD of the inner races.

Yeah that's the big idea. I got the idea of something after so many of the droves of Golves guys all said a) finding the disc brake things was a pain in the ass and that pain was made worse because of how frequently the weenie little 29mm inner and 17,5mm outer stubbie thing bent.

By the way, here's a thing that looks an arf-ful lot like the thing above:

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Stub Axle
Brand: Dansk
Brand:
Dansk
Applications:

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required


Price

Stub Axle Brand: Dansk 1 $17.25
Quantity in Stock: 15
Pelican Sales Rank: 12668
Time to Ship:
Weight: 2.1 lbs.
Warranty Info: 24 Months / 24,000 miles
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Dansk is an aftermarket supplier of Porsche & BMW parts.
Pelican quality rating for: Dansk (EXCELLENT)
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Somehow I don't think that these things branded Dansk är verkligen dansk.

Hur some helst, for $17 its worth it to grab some to work out some nice simple template so guys can fab their own adapters..

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Link? I'll order up one.
So the thought I'm having is you still need a mount for the brake caliper so it might be as simple as to shave off the existing microstub and bolt these right to it using some longer bolts and possibly dowel them together. Get two birds stoned at once!

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!

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ElectroTech
Link? I'll order up one.
So the thought I'm having is you still need a mount for the brake caliper so it might be as simple as to shave off the existing microstub and bolt these right to it using some longer bolts and possibly dowel them together. Get two birds stoned at once!

It looks like that one is just a regular Mk4 stub, and possibly the one I posted as well, looks like at a minimum it would require cutting off the microstub and drilling some holes.....but I think Culbertson has been down that road already.

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!

Man I can't wait to get my car on the road. Completely abandoned, every line in this pic is passable. Mostly old leases not in use, oilfield curfew after 7pm, no residential dwellings at all.

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!

Finally have my shiny new JVABs after a long journey for them!

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!

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ElectroTech
Finally have my shiny new JVABs after a long journey for them!

Are they purdy?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
ElectroTech
Finally have my shiny new JVABs after a long journey for them!

Excellent! I remember in 2002 when I got mine and John was helping me to set up the ride height over the phone. He said, once you get it at the right height (in my case with about 40% droop travel), put some gravel tires on the car and air them up to about 32 PSI. Then find the nearest concrete curb that I can hit at 50-60mph: Hit it and report back.

With regular lubrication and cleaning, they should last for a long time. Mine have at least 50,000 miles on them and 40+ events with no issues. and they are the 41mm version with like 175mm stroke.

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

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Josh Wimpey

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ElectroTech
Finally have my shiny new JVABs after a long journey for them!

Excellent! I remember in 2002 when I got mine and John was helping me to set up the ride height over the phone. He said, once you get it at the right height (in my case with about 40% droop travel), put some gravel tires on the car and air them up to about 32 PSI. Then find the nearest concrete curb that I can hit at 50-60mph: Hit it and report back.

With regular lubrication and cleaning, they should last for a long time. Mine have at least 50,000 miles on them and 40+ events with no issues. and they are the 41mm version with like 175mm stroke.

Wow that's a ton of use and abuse!
Roughly how often do you grease them? I'll wait it lit warms up from -20°C before I try the kirb, closest one of those is 40min away lol.
Finishing up the house and a few other things then hopefully get this thing stripped, stitched and caged.

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!

Quote
Josh Wimpey

Excellent! I remember in 2002 when I got mine and John was helping me to set up the ride height over the phone. He said, once you get it at the right height (in my case with about 40% droop travel), put some gravel tires on the car and air them up to about 32 PSI. Then find the nearest concrete curb that I can hit at 50-60mph: Hit it and report back.
/quote]

i actually had to put my beer down to laugh and so not to drop it

I regrease them after every stage rally event or after 6 months of street use.

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Well the build hasn't made much progress so I might as well head down and check it out from the sidelines.

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!

Yay, finally put a wrench to the car. Got everything electrical and all the plumbing disconnected to pull the old diesel out. Pulled the rad/support out as well. Gotta love when there's no rust.
Too nice a day to not dig it out of the snow and play around. Garage is being delivered in April/May so then I can really get moving on it.

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!

Got it pulled, front clip looks nice and straight. Found the first bit of rust, no perforation.

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!