XR4Ti build, possible future Rally car?

Aside from my Co-Driving duties this year, I've picked up a project XR4Ti to work on. Current goal is to get her running again and have some fun driving around and enter some RallyX events with the possible eventual goal of turning her into a stage rally car, maybe...

In the mean time, I bought the car with a blown head gasket and the previous owner had already pulled the cylinder head off before I took possession of the car. Work so far has been clean up and investigation as to the condition of the block and cylinder head.

I've been cleaning up the head and determined that it is warped, though I had already been planning to get the head machined before I put it back on the car. I've got some other spare parts (including an extra cylinder head and a rebuilt motor) so I'm debating swapping the already rebuilt motor instead of trying to fix this head...



She's a work in progress but it's been fun so far!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2016 04:37PM by dunhamr1.

Sounds like a plan....

Do yourself a favor and make sure the block is flat too and doesn't need decking before you slap everything together.

Thats assuming you don't throw the rebuilt engine in....

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2016 08:13PM by RALLYRS.

Block checks out at under ~.0025 inches, so I'm hoping to not have to deck it to get it going, but if I end up swapping the other block in I'll get it decked before re-assembling.

The crank binds in one place in the rotation with the head off, and I'm still trying to determine if there's any bottom end damage... To get it running sooner rather than later it might be better to drop the other motor in and then diagnose the current block.

Quote
RALLYRS
Sounds like a plan....

Do yourself a favor and make sure the block is flat too and doesn't need decking before you slap everything together.

Thats assuming you don't throw the rebuilt engine in....

Unfortunately to get this one going quickly its beginning to look like the alleged 50,000 spare might have to go in. So if that goes in and this comes out, there his chance to do a quick check out of this one and spiff as needed...and set aside till he gets further down the road.. You know the old rule: you have a good spare, you'll never need it....you'll need what you don't have..

Right now the big brou ha ha is going to be getting a turbo that has lots of bolt holes without diamond like broken bolts--and figuring out what to do with that downpipe and plumbing water to the heater core..Gotta get him a Xratty specific manual with pretty piccies of all the water cooling routing

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

My big question about swapping the other motor in is the best way to attach the transmission to the new motor. Leave it in the chassis? Lift the chassis off of it? Pull it out and bolt it up and drop engine +trans in at the same time?

To mount the motor to the engine stand and still be able to attach the transmission, I'd need to fab (or havery fabbed) a bracket like you were talking about. John, can you post or send me a picture of that engine mount bracket that doesn't attach to the same place as the bellhousing?

Have only gotten a (seemingly) small amount of work done on the XR since I got it, life and stage rallys keep me away from home lately it seems...

I'm prepping to pull the block out of it and replace with a semi-known block out of an SVO that I've got on the stand right now.

After fighting with some fasteners for a, bit I was able to remove the driveshaft to have the ability to tilt the transmission or take it out with the motor when it comes time. The gubio is shot but it'll be a while before I need one.

Working on taking the turbo exhaust housing off to better work on removing the sheared bolts or replace it with a different one. Possibly a cosworth housing that will connect to the 3" exhaust that's on the car? We'll see.

I toasted the coolant return line trying to get access to the housing bolts, but for simplicity abd per comments from JVL I'm probably going to leave it off and just run oil cooling. I'll be sure to have an oil temp gauge to monitor the situation.

The driveshaft removal felt like a success and a small victory in a story that seems so full of setbacks. Here's to progress! Cheers.

Are you planning on doing the supra diff conversion. Now that the driveshaft is out you can weld on the toyota flange. The supra diff was probably the biggest upgrade for rallycross I have done.

Look at the bright side, once you remove all the fasteners the next time you have to remove them they will come out super easy.

Also besides from the broken bolts that turbine housing looks good, from what i can see it doesn't look like there are any cracks by the wastegate hole.

Quote
Thomas Kimsey
Are you planning on doing the supra diff conversion. Now that the driveshaft is out you can weld on the toyota flange. The supra diff was probably the biggest upgrade for rallycross I have done.

Look at the bright side, once you remove all the fasteners the next time you have to remove them they will come out super easy.

Also besides from the broken bolts that turbine housing looks good, from what i can see it doesn't look like there are any cracks by the wastegate hole.

Soon as you said that it appeared! I think I see one headed straight up---in normal orientation---towards the little tiny 55mm outlet..
But with 5 outta 5 bolts brken off he's in deep shit.. Those bolts transmogrify into something harder than diamonds....I wish I knew a way to get them out cause I have 2-3 housings with 2 or 3 broken per.

But he's getting a Cossie housing...Just-a-like-yoooo if i ever remember to send the damn thing to you..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Thomas Kimsey
Are you planning on doing the supra diff conversion. Now that the driveshaft is out you can weld on the toyota flange. The supra diff was probably the biggest upgrade for rallycross I have done.

Look at the bright side, once you remove all the fasteners the next time you have to remove them they will come out super easy.

Also besides from the broken bolts that turbine housing looks good, from what i can see it doesn't look like there are any cracks by the wastegate hole.

Soon as you said that it appeared! I think I see one headed straight up---in normal orientation---towards the little tiny 55mm outlet..
But with 5 outta 5 bolts brken off he's in deep shit.. Those bolts transmogrify into something harder than diamonds....I wish I knew a way to get them out cause I have 2-3 housings with 2 or 3 broken per.

But he's getting a Cossie housing...Just-a-like-yoooo if i ever remember to send the damn thing to you..

No rush, going to be working on the chassis for the next few weeks. Then off to your favorite state to get the jungle gym installed.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Thomas Kimsey
Are you planning on doing the supra diff conversion. Now that the driveshaft is out you can weld on the toyota flange. The supra diff was probably the biggest upgrade for rallycross I have done.

Look at the bright side, once you remove all the fasteners the next time you have to remove them they will come out super easy.

Also besides from the broken bolts that turbine housing looks good, from what i can see it doesn't look like there are any cracks by the wastegate hole.

Soon as you said that it appeared! I think I see one headed straight up---in normal orientation---towards the little tiny 55mm outlet..
But with 5 outta 5 bolts brken off he's in deep shit.. Those bolts transmogrify into something harder than diamonds....I wish I knew a way to get them out cause I have 2-3 housings with 2 or 3 broken per.

But he's getting a Cossie housing...Just-a-like-yoooo if i ever remember to send the damn thing to you..

No supra diff planned right now, just trying to get her on the road at this point. If one pops up for the right price I'd pick it up and hang on to it until I was ready, but priority is getting her running.

Visual inspection yields no cracks but I haven't gotten it inspected or anything, what you might be seeing is the crud thats still on there. It's flaky and has cracks in it, but the wire wheel busted that off easy.

Cossie housing will be a better solution, not only from a performance standpoint, but also from an exhaust connection standpoint. With the internal wastegate, and the made-for-3-inch outlet, I just have to cut the 5 bolt flange off the exhaust and flare the end to get a 3 bolt that will bolt up to the cossie welded on.

Quote
dunhamr1

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Thomas Kimsey
Are you planning on doing the supra diff conversion. Now that the driveshaft is out you can weld on the toyota flange. The supra diff was probably the biggest upgrade for rallycross I have done.

Look at the bright side, once you remove all the fasteners the next time you have to remove them they will come out super easy.

Also besides from the broken bolts that turbine housing looks good, from what i can see it doesn't look like there are any cracks by the wastegate hole.

Soon as you said that it appeared! I think I see one headed straight up---in normal orientation---towards the little tiny 55mm outlet..
But with 5 outta 5 bolts brken off he's in deep shit.. Those bolts transmogrify into something harder than diamonds....I wish I knew a way to get them out cause I have 2-3 housings with 2 or 3 broken per.

But he's getting a Cossie housing...Just-a-like-yoooo if i ever remember to send the damn thing to you..

No supra diff planned right now, just trying to get her on the road at this point. If one pops up for the right price I'd pick it up and hang on to it until I was ready, but priority is getting her running.

Visual inspection yields no cracks but I haven't gotten it inspected or anything, what you might be seeing is the crud thats still on there. It's flaky and has cracks in it, but the wire wheel busted that off easy.

Cossie housing will be a better solution, not only from a performance standpoint, but also from an exhaust connection standpoint. With the internal wastegate, and the made-for-3-inch outlet, I just have to cut the 5 bolt flange off the exhaust and flare the end to get a 3 bolt that will bolt up to the cossie welded on.

is is "right thinking". Get it going..
A note on the Cossie turbine housing.. I lurv them for a0 function, QUICK and early spool AND they'll happily rev higher cause the pathway is so nice out, but also for getting the heat OUT, so more relaibility...a win win.. Then of course the ease of three nuts, nice big M10s instead of miserable nuts on M8 studs which do wheat we see: break off...

The Supra diff thing is supposed to be a "opportunity buy" thing..Stumble accross a 4.3 for the right price JUMP on it and then take your time to check it out, maybe fling in a solid spacer to get rid of the only thing normally an issue (on ALL diffs): the collapsible spacer..

We see the ebay price has edged up way past $330 typically and really that is a deal in 2016 to get a right ratio and a LSD for $330, but so much better to score one for $35 or $65. But that takes patience and dilligence..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Is supra diff the be-all end-all? Are there any other cheap-ish LSD's that have a higher (lower) ratio that can be put in the back of an Xratty without too much fuss?

Quote
dunhamr1
Is supra diff the be-all end-all? Are there any other cheap-ish LSD's that have a higher (lower) ratio that can be put in the back of an Xratty without too much fuss?

The beauty of the Supra diff is the ring and pinion from the 200 mm pickup truck diff fits.

So between the OEM stuff and aftermarket, you can get 3.07, 3.42, 3.54, 3.70, 3.91, 4.10, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88, 5.29, 5.71....

Aftermarket gears seldom cost more than $200 new, usually about $170-$180 depending on ratio and brand.

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Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/

Quote
Ascona73

Quote
dunhamr1
Is supra diff the be-all end-all? Are there any other cheap-ish LSD's that have a higher (lower) ratio that can be put in the back of an Xratty without too much fuss?

The beauty of the Supra diff is the ring and pinion from the 200 mm pickup truck diff fits.

So between the OEM stuff and aftermarket, you can get 3.07, 3.42, 3.54, 3.70, 3.91, 4.10, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88, 5.29, 5.71....

Aftermarket gears seldom cost more than $200 new, usually about $170-$180 depending on ratio and brand.

So you're saying it doesn't really matter which supra diff you get, you can change the ring and pinion to get what you want for not crazy money?

Now you guys got me looking!

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/5458040832.html

$200 for the 4.3 NA diff. I know a rallyist in San Antonio that could pick it up... Very tempting.