About to lose my shit. Spring perch woes...

So after another 2 hours of dicking with heat and liquids and going up and down at a snails pace I used the band saw instead. I knew it was just the top cm that was gunked, so I cut that much off. That dirt had become concrete, i had to chip it out of the threads with a point. There was no way it was getting past those threads like it was.

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Brap Brap.

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john vanlandingham
But this is the inter-net where non-racers are all experts and 3 rallies makes you a veteran..
Sheesh.

lol

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Dave Grenwis - DG Rally - www.dgrally.com

I did this on the last one. This worked well enough.

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Brap Brap.

So JVL, I'm assuming by propane, you mean heating the perch up ya?

I use painter's tape to keep the exposed threads a little less gunked up, but I haven't found anything that works all that well. I absolutely dread pulling my suspenders apart, which leads me to ignoring them, then they rust up a bit and are even harder to take apart.

Maybe covering the whole damn thing in a length rubber inner tube?

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Runamuck Rally

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john vanlandingham
Yeah Culbertson, look at any modern stuff on high buck stuff that gets replaced constantly...

Replaced constantly or serviced every event? I believe there are a few of your customers that service their suspension every event. Which I think is a pretty good idea.

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You really need to learn one day that your extreme lack of experience paying for things yourself leads you constantly astray

Ha! That's not even close at all. If you really knew me, you would see that I do not like spending other people's money or my own.

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And if you had any experience enough to go out advising people like you do constantly, then you'd know that even those short lower seats on so many of the popular $5-8k set ups jam up just as frequently.

Huh, that's never been the case in my experience. Not in mountain bikes, motocross bikes, circle track cars, road racing cars, or my street car with 10k miles on the coil-over kit I used (Bilstein sleeves with Acme style threads). Sure, they get crud jammed in them from time to time, but they are much easier to clean out. Usually a quick back and forth a few times will do.

The seats that you supply funnel and hold dirt above the threads (which have 10mm of threads for a seat that's 64mm tall... so that's 54mm of space for dirt/fines to get packed into). The shorter and vastly inferior seats also have about 10mm of threads, but lack the funnel on top to hold the fines. Much easier to clean out when needed, but that's in my experience... not yours.

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You really are the epitome of a 20 something who thinks all kinds of things with such certainty but with such limited experience that its kind of annoying to see you give out such bad advice all the time.

That's definitely one opinion of me.

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Top anybody else, who wants to know: we have to use fairly fine thread and good tolerances to get enough thread engagement ---note that other manufacturers who presumably know more than Culbertson and more than I do use the exact same thread on both 40 and 41mm and 50mm stuff (DMS and Bilstein)... They use short little platforms primarily to SAVE MONEY..

There's more to just thread engagement when it comes to thread design wrt load bearing and contamination. I work in an industry that deals with impacted fines in threads all the time. Testing and real world applications has shown that loose threads will actually work better with fines and dirt contamination with no discernible difference in load bearing reduction.

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Money is something Culbertson has never in my experience given any thought to because he is not racing and trying to pay for stuff himself...

Lolz

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The short ones seize and jam just as often---which he would know if he had been around long enough to have worked on or fought with them...

See above. I've been around racing and working on race vehicles for most of my life. Haven't had much of an issue with the normal spring seats. I've cut my fair share of JVAB ones off of struts and shocks after a few days of fighting them. I also know of one person who just slid a Bilstein sleeve over the tube, and has had much less hassle.

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Both types of O rings created way way excessive drag and made movement of the seat ON A NEW CLEAN TUBE excessively hard to do..Exhausting really...so no go.

Not surprised here. O-ring glands and seals can be a pain to get right, especially if they need to seal around threads that are ~1.5 mm tall. O-ring seals require a very specific amount of compression to work. This varies if it's a stationary seal, sliding seal, or rotating seal.

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John Reed in Portland discussed this constant problem on EVERYTHING and we came up with the idea of king-sized heat shrink sleeve over the top and the tube..Seemed to work for him..

That's a pretty good idea. I've wrapped inner tubes around the threads on shock bodies before. Helps prevent dings from gravel spray and seals out the grit (motocross and mountain bikes).

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But this is the inter-net where non-racers are all experts and 3 rallies makes you a veteran..
Sheesh.

I've done at least 4 rallies thank you very much

I've always used duct tape to protect the perches, and keep dirt of the shaft and seals. This has been done for decades to keep things clean.

Alwsasy wondered if anyone had tried something like these: http://www.polyperformance.com/Poly-Performance-Coil-Wrap

If you have tire clearance, they might be useful.

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One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Better variety of options here:

http://www.kartek.com/parts-categories/spring-shock-accessories.html

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One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

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Josh Wimpey
Alwsasy wondered if anyone had tried something like these: http://www.polyperformance.com/Poly-Performance-Coil-Wrap

If you have tire clearance, they might be useful.

I've used them to keep the seals much happier in the shocks, and they definitely worked for that. Went from seeping shafts after 2-weekends of racing to rebuilding them once a season (which may not have been a good idea, probably should have been rebuilt more often).

I'm surprised the duct tape held up between the coils!

As a non-engineer..

I ask the question...

Why is the threaded part not at the top of the perch? would that not partially slove the problem of grit getting down the "spring holder thingy". I mean aluminee-um is pretty strong under tension, oui? Non?"